dajogejr

Hey mon...no problems. As long as it's in good shape, takes the stock carrier (which, you already answered) and the stock length shock will fit, sold. Just tell me you didn't paint it purple or pink or some dumb shit like that... Payday is this friday, and 42 hours of OT are on the check...I'm shopping round a bit for other stuff too. NO worries...I'm not going to have the rest of my goodies (cubs, cranks, etc.) for probably about another 3 to 4 weeks... I just dont' want you to think I'm forgetting about this....

Damn it...I actually had to read that shit another time and let it soak in. Good one...very funny... I owe you one...no doubt. Play DRAG RACE.... Is that better? As in play drag race our quads.... Silly sick fuck. Anyways...Jeff...I'll talk apples with you when I call you for my motor items. I'm going to decide weather I get a new basket, plate, etc....or go with a lockup.

Spacing or tweaking the peg will be no problem at all. Ok...and thanks for all your input by the way...two more questions. 1. Who/where/how much $$ does it cost for a modified side cover or aftermarket side cover and... 2. Does it really make it shift worse? Again...I'll probably dune and play drag with my buddies most of the time. But...I plan on running some open and fast trails. however...I don't want to have to kill meself shifting this baby.... I do like the non-HD clutch spring ideas I've heard...Popeye forearms I have not...(yet... ) Thanks again...lads.

It's only 120 from direct drive. Nothing, compared to the thousands you can dump in a motor... How much extra does the side case stick out...you got a pic by chance? the pics on their sites don't do it justice...I don't think... They show one on, but without the side case modded. http://www.directdrivecnc.net/banlockout.html

I'm building a 4 mil cub in the next month or so. I'm looking at the direct drive lockup clutches. I play drag with my buddies most of the time, but...still want to be able to run some trails. NOT Tight, whooped out trails...but, fire road style... What are the cons of having a lockup style clutch? I already know the clutch bascially can't or won't slip, it will last longer...and I don't have to run as tough of springs...but, what are the demons? Thanks...

ABSOLUTELY.... You can prolong this a little IF the grooves aren't too bad, get some scotch brite pad on angle grinder...and grind 'em smooth. Again, IF the notches arent' too bad. If they're pretty rough....get a new Hinson basket....or other comparible aftermarket basket. Time to check out the rest of your clutch, too. it's only grooved on one side of the "ears" because that's where all the pressure goes to...

Dumb question...but, you do have a good set of aftermarket pipes...and opened up the breathing on it, right? ( airbox mods or no airbox at all...)?? While you're at it...have boonman do your shiftstar as well. Neutral was never so easy to find...

+6 for 150? You got pics and info? PM me if so... I can have cash in your hands this Friday if it's what I'm looking for... By the way...that pink/chrome shee you had/have for sale is suwheet...

Mio's too whooped form my tastes. Even "the hill" was terrible when we all went last year, weekend after 4th of July. There are two loops, one about 15 miles and the other about 27 in peacock, MI that are bar none the best trails I've ever ridden. Screaming 4th, 5th...and even a touch of 6th gear trails and an absolute blast to ride. I may have to check out Lucerne (Spelling?? )... A guy has a place in Standish, called Dusty D's. I think he has 500 acres or so. Nothing spectacular...but, if you live in the city...and need a quick 2 hour ride to ride for a day, can't be beat. Has some trails, some mud, some jumps....and two drag strips he grooms every half hour to hour depending on how many are racing.... It's a cool quick day trip, and Dusty is a helluva nice guy.

Looking for a a trail and dune quality swinger, getting ready to build a 4mil cub motor. Don't think the stocker is going to be very friendly...unless I gain 200 lbs and sit on the front bumper... I saw Loco's in the for sale...great unit..but little more than I was looking to pay. Any good leads before I head off to ebay land in the next month or so? Prefer +4...but, would deal with +6 if price is right...

Magic is between 22 and 23 mile on Van Dyke... 586-254-9117 If you live further than 1/2 hour away, you're almost better ordering online and getting the cheapest shipping. They ship darned fast. I almost hate going there....like a kid in a candy store...

I only took this for granted once. Any time I take my carbs off...even if it's only to spin 'em sideways to change the main, I always double check the sync... I overlooked it once. The cable could've been bound or routed a little different, etc. Bottom line is...for the 2 minutes it'll take to make triple sure the slides are in perfect sync...or as in perfect of sync as they're going to be by the naked eye...it's worth doing and checking, period. This is all much easier once you install the TORS removal and idle screw kit...

Just think....once you get some port work and maybe some carbs it probably could pull that 18T... Yeah...if you trail ride in a lot of mud and water, an airbox is nice. For duning though...no airbox is the only way to go... If you ride in that much mud and water...stick to a utility 4X4...

I have the clamp on K&Ns and Uni (toomey) 2 into 1. Close to sea level... I have 330 mains and 27.5 pilots (Stock is 25). Air screw between 1 and 2.5 turns out (depending on temps) If you use Toomey's needles (Dynojet) you'll be on the fourth clip down from the blunt end. Stock needles (which have 5 grooves, vs. the 6 grooves on the toomey needles) you'll be in the middle. Start with your air screws 1.5 turns out from the lightly seated position, and you'll have to fine tune it from there.... With no airbox, removing the carbs is a breeze. Once you do...though, double and triple check to make sure they're still sync'd up once you put it all back together.... Good luck...

Maybe those top end drag pipes you bought can't pull that 18 tooth front sprocket...out of the hole... Seriously, I'd take each carb off, get the TORS removal kit, which will include a new cable, new carb caps, a drill bit, tap and brass idle screws... This is a good time to completely dissasemble the carbs, clean 'em out... Depending on your skill and patience, this can be done in a few hours max...faster if you rush (but why?? ) Take your time and make sure you Sync your carbs properly.... Since I last remember your post, your motor is 100% stock other than the pipes, right? 320 might be a little rich for just those pipes with a stock air filter and stock airbox with the lid on...

PM me if I can help...

Depends...how long is the drag? How much do you drag? if you're just tooling around the dunes, 14 tooth, if you plan on racing a shorter race, say a standard 500 foot or so race, 13 tooth. 15 would probably be too much on a stocker with just pipes in the dunes...

I've got the tap in my tool box, if you wanna throw me a few bucks to cover Fed Ex shipping, I'll be happy to send you one...as long as I have your word you'll send it back. I can send it Express Saver, Overnight or Priority Overnight...no matter...you tell me. I just used it Saturday...worked like a champ!!! I could sell you some jets, too...if you think you might need it. I've got a set of just about every one of 'em, from 230's to 360's. (I'm going to need the mid and higher 360s for meself...though... ) Lemme know.

Put the needle back to the 3rd clip, or...stock. Normally...if you buy VForce reeds/cages, you lean the needle. Stock cages with your mods shouldn't warrant that... I'd go 290 mains, 1.5 out on the screws... I think 310 is a little fat on the big end considering you still have an air box. I just jetted my buddies on Saturday... Bills Pipes, VForce, no lid and a K&N filter with the pro flow adapter. Stock pilots, 1.0 to 1.5 out, 280 mains and it was ripping pretty darned good. I also bumped his needle one to the blunt end (leaned) I also removed his TORS...much, much easier to work on everything!!

Depends on your air filter setup. If you have a box and a lid, you should be ok on your main, if you have clamp on K&Ns and remove your airbox, you'd probably be better off with a 27.5 pilot and around 330 mains. I hear the FMF like fatter pilots. I have 330 and 27.5 in mine, no airbox and T5s. You didn't mention if it runs better with choke out off the bottom or on top...

I'm not 100% sure... Since your whole motor was basically built by Trinity..I'd start there and see what they say...

You'll be fine with a dune port. The power comes on a little later in the RPMs, but...not ALL the way at the end, like a Drag Port would. 99shee.. I'm pretty sure you're going to need the 795 series pistons regardless...having the heads recut or the spacer is up to you... Someone correct me if I'm wrong there...

I was going to say the same about Vito's pistons, Nyuk...I've read about a lot of problems with them. However, I've never used 'em...so, it's not fair. Like Nyuk said, a piped, jetted and ported shee should rip the fenders off those bikes as you ride by. However, in the tighter trails, the rappy might get you...the suspension is better than a shee. Albeit they have a very high center of gravity and feel tall,they still soak up the bumps and turns better.

Pipes, jetting, advanced timing alone will dog that raptor, if it's stock. Once you port it, it'll should beat either no problem, unless they got a ton of money sunk into 'em. My mods (not much) are in my sig, and I smoked my buddy's raptor all day long with a K&N, Yoshimura exhaust, jet kit and 4 degree timing key. And I mean smoked him bad... I haven't raced any DS650...seen 'em. Heard they're pretty quick...but they've got to be heavy....

Just a word of advice...I know you have a single carb setup...but on the factory twin mikunis, it's normal to go 2 to 4 sizes richer on the main for winter riding...one size main might not be enough. Just give those four strokers a whitewash courtesey the business end of your banshee, that usually shuts 'em up. Here's the link to Dave Noss's site, about his head and APPROXIMATE cylinder PSI, again...based on fresh bore, etc. You seem to be a little low...but not low enough to start as bad as you're claiming. I firmly believe overall jetting is your prob!! http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm