dajogejr

Compression and timing are the key factors in the need for race gas. Comp. has more to do than timing. If you're at 155 psii or lower, properly jetted of course, premium pump gas (92 or better) should suffice. However, increasing your timing can alter this a bit. You only need to run as much octane to keep you bike from pre-igniting...or pinging...as needed. Running race gas or higher octane gas in a bike that doesn't need it gives you a mental edge, that's it. Ok...ok...it's smells awesome too, but, it's a waste of money. Round here...you can get anywhere from 104 to 113 octane readily at the pump. Now...if you have the bucks, oxygenated fuels is where it's at. But...it's pricey as all hell!!

I agree with the boys above. However...before you waste money on race gas...get the head on and test the compression again. If you're around 150 or less...premium pump gas will work just fine....according to Noss's chart, you should be right around 178 or so. You'll definately need race gas if you're close to that... Have fun...

If it starts relatively easy...there's no way 75Lbs is right. Mine has 110 right now...and it could start easier...and I know the compression tester I bought is good, it's a top of the line snap on my buddy bought. As said, before you lose all your hair over this, try another compression tester. My buddy used a cheapy in his 700 forumula snowmobile triple. One cylinder had 145, the middle had 180, the other had 130. This sled has about 8000 miles on it...and still started and ran great. I kept telling him the tester he used was JUNK. Sure enough, put my buddy's snap on tester on it, 135 across the board.... Right tools for the right job always help!!!

Can you pick mine up on the way there...I'll split the profit with you...should be enough...

I might be interested. I will PM you my email if you don't mind sending a few pictures??

Engine degreaser and a powerwasher will get this cleaner... I'm not going to beat that dead horse about the price...canadian, european, Pakistan or Mexico... MY buddy is looking at a clean, used 98 for 1500...rode on a farm...so, I happened into the for sale and upon this thread... Good luck on that sale. Free bump

I was thinking the same...mabe a shit point...missed a shift...??

Looks good...feel free to post that big of a pic of your avitar...

IF RMATV ever has it in stock. I waited about 2 months of checking... I got smart, bought Jeff's kit from Fast....

Yep...I was going to get a stroker and port the stock cylinders.... After figuring out the costs....it's only going to cost me an extra 500 or less to go with a cub setup...so it makes no sense not too. It'll be even less a difference once I sell my stock, virgin cylinders for I'm guessing 100 to 250 bucks...(Not sure what they go for... ) Once you go stroker, and 4 mil at that, you need to have the head recut or buy a new one and have the domes cut. You need different pistons with the wrist pin offset to allow for the longer stroke. The porting MUST be done since the timing will be completely off...or, you could get a base plate. However, putting a stroker in without getting porting done is a waste. As said...it's not a drop in crank...it's the other parts around it that cost money/time/labor. Worth it...though...

That's just plain wrong... A shee with that much mud on it set up to drag... Get a utlity quad for Christsakes.... That was probably real fun...spinning the shit out of the tires in all that mud. Like spinning out on ice...damn near... That's about what we used to look like coming home from Mt. Morris mounds if you went too early... I'll leave the mud to the trucks and utility quads...no thanks...

I hear ya... Think about some Shearers, CPIs...or contact Grand River Racing. They don't advertise them...but they will build you inframe drag pipes if you ask....

I liked the way the banshee was at 500 bucks...I hear those rusty pipes add HP by keeping the heat in... Seriously..nice looking bike there...and you're right, you're never done. You're merely between upgrades... Running out of frames for anything but dunes and drag is a bad..bad idea...they don't belong anywhere else. Unless...you have to ride a quick trail to get to the dunes....

Give Jeff Wendorff @ F.A.S.T. Racing a call at 785-364-5325. Don't be afraid of that "search" button.... Going to give him a call tomorrow.....myself.

Since he has a power lid, I'm assuming he has the airbox and all. 340 to 350 is probably right for cold weather. 320ish for warm weather. Again, the above also depends on the porting... What does your builder say about jetting... 25 pilots are stock...unless you have your air screws turned almost all the way in...they should be fine, especially with an airbox still. Bigger carbs with that setup would probably be a waste until you went dune/drag porting...or stuck to 32mm or smaller...

Place an ad in the wanted section...and browse the for sale... they show up from time to time.... Good luck!

He's right... Not to mention, rocks, ruts, etc. get deflected more through the front end and to the handle bars, as well. However....A Arms and Shocks are a big investment...$$ wise...so, it's up to you to make the decision... A steering stabilizer is a great, great idea when you start to widen the front end and change the geometry....

Seriously....not trying to sound like an ass...but, use the search function. The T5 is arguably one of if not the best all around pipe...stock or built. The CPI is a drag pipe. CPIs love higher RPMs, they love drag ports, bigger carbs, etc. Sure, they'll work with stock porting and stock carbs, etc....but, they're a drag pipe. are you ready to go that far to make the most of the pipe?? I'm building a 4 mil cub and plan on keeping my stock carbs and T5s this year. Then...maybe bigger carbs and Shearer inframes next year...we'll see.... Do a search...there's a wealth of info on pipes here...and opinions as well.

Once it's all together, I'd start it up and blip the throttle slightly till she gets warmed up. Blipping the throttle circulates the water faster, faster warm up. Let it cool down. Do this again, and let it cool down. Then, recheck the torque on the head and base nuts/bolts. For the first tank of gas...probably not a good idea to ride balls to the wall, rev it out a little, try not to stay at the same RPM for too long. Vary your speeds. I don't buy the break it in like you stole it thing, either....not on my dime anyhow...

He is exactly right....it will stress out the front a little more, of course...that depends on where you ride, too. I don't do tight trails or real rocky/bumpy/muddy riding...more or less fast open trails, drag racing or dunes... Wider A Arms are definately the way to go...but, you're talking a few hundred bucks now...too...

What's a permanent mod? You're drilling two holes, that's it. If you don't like it...or want to switch 'em back, just pop for 4 new valve stems.... I gaurentee it's cheaper than new rims and wheel spacers...and most definately more reliable than spacer kits... Believe me...once you swap the front rims, you won't go back...

Damned good price...wish I wasn't spending the money on my motor real soon or I'd snatch 'em up. Free bump...

Try the "Wanted" section....might get better help...

Was thinking about doing just that myself.... Although...they should've figured it out when you pulled 3 bikes out of the whole and kept pulling like a frieght train...they were probably looking for the bottle when they discovered the cubs...

Since you said dune port, we're going to assume you plan on riding dunes and perhaps some hill climbs. Keep the stock carbs...hell...even bore them out to 28mm and you'll be better off. The only way I'd say twin carbs are more unreliable is if they are jetted incorrectly (different sizes than each other) or if they're not sync'd properly.... If they are set up ok, there are no reliability issues.... If you wanted to run tighter trails and MX, I'd say go for 2 into 1...but, since you're getting a port job designed to run higher RPMs...you'd be better off getting fed by twins. Plus...if you're going to dune, I'd try the 15 front and see how the motor pulls it...should be fine. If you feel like you're gettiing out of the hole shitty...(and the carb(s) are jetted and adjusted properly) go back to a 14. Should pull 15 no problems...though.