dajogejr

220 PSI on 18cc domes? check you compression gauge...it's bad...

Other factors as well...stock timing? YOu only need to run as much octane as needed so it doens't ping or detonate. Listen to your motor and look at your plugs, that'll tell you...

And 2-5 overdrive and lockup...since last we saw eachother... I'm thinking I still won't have much for ya, JT...but, at least I'll have something for my 450R buddy...

PULEASE...get the boat anchors out of my garage. PM me if you need a set of stockers...I'm sure shiping would be less than 20 bucks.

IRazr and Holeshot XCRs are pretty good choices for trails. Never used the razrs...but, I love my holeshots.

100% stock? That's the problem....more power needed!! Paddle type and big lugged tires are heavier...which soak up more power. However...stock dunlops are garbage... Look at Pure Sport Realtors, Dick Cepek Spider Tracs or ITP Blackwater tires. All of those are pretty darned good muck tires...I would personally choose the blackwaters for your type of riding. However, I like to keep my shee on dry trails and sand...so...like assholes, it's my opionion and everybody's got one...

My pleasure...like I said...just did my buddy's Tuesday night...and mine early last year when I bought it. Glad all is well!

FMF pipes like a fatter pilot. Change your stock 25 pilot to a 27.5, the next size larger. Turn your airscrews 1.5 turns out from the lightly seated position. That should get you close. Then...you can use the old choke trick. Once the bike is fully warmed up...pull the choke out half way...if it runs better off the bottom, you need to turn your air screws in. If it runs worse, turn the air screws out. Remember to make sure it's warmed up...and allow a good 20 seconds after turning the air screws out to let the adjustment "take effect". Turn them in or out 1/4 turn at a time till it's right... Needles should be in the middle clip.

Other than T5's...what type of air filtration are you running, stock air box, snorkle, clampn filters, removed lid? What's your elevation, too? Banshdog is right....Colder weather requires on average 1 to 3 main sizes bigger, and of course you have to lean back out for warm weather. Your needles in the middle clip should be fine unless you have aftermarket reed cages...

Way off...unless you're in Antarctica... Stock jetting is either a 200 or a 210 main (depending on your location and what the dealer installed). With ONLY your airbox mode (as in...if you want to go for a rip before the pipes arrive) you should be fine with a 230 main jet, stock pilot (25) and about 1 turn out on the air screws. You'll have to fine tune them yourself. I'm taking into consideration your at or around sea level...and are riding in roughly 70 Degree temps. Once you get your T5s, you'll be at or around 300 Main Jet. You can still use the stock Pilot, too. The 270 and 280 that come in a Toomey kit are lean, period. Don't waste your time...unless you're above 2000ft plus. If you remove your airbox and get clampons you'll be in the 330 to 350 ballpark on the mains. Once you get the VForce reeds in, bump the needle one down (one groove down from the blunt end)...VForce actually leans out the mid circuit..so, you need to richen your needle accordingly. Good luck.

Yeah...but that quad's slow...so, you might get embarrased by your daddy that first weekend out... Seriously, I'm booking our hotel tomorrow AM, Redneck, I should have it all back together tomorrow... Might go for a quick rip in Port Huron this weekend to break her in, you in??

We're coming up that Friday, the 21st...early. Could be up to 10 of us as well. 3 of us are staying at Sierra Sands. Big Enclosed Sled trailer pulled by an 04 Red Dodge club cab Hemi... Predator, 450R and my Banhsee on board. We have other friends that are going to be there...but, not sure if they're staying at the same place as us. I'm breaking in my 4 mil cub this weekend for next weekend's dune trip...to say I can't wait would be an understatment!!!

I'd agree 100%. The absolute first for any shee owner is pipes and airfilter. My buddy bought a 100% bone stock 98 with literally about 5 hours on it...just broken in. I put T5s on it, K&N Clampons and jetted it. He promptly called me the next day, and said..."I better stop using black magic or armor all to clean the seat...I can't hang on now...it rips.". I told him to stay off the 4mil cub I'm building...he might get hurt...

I'd say he needs to re-clean the passage way for the fuel from the intake spout, (Compressed air does wonders) make sure the rubber tip of the needle isn't damaged, make sure the needle can move freely within the hole (yeah...that sounds bad...) and then check for correct float height. 21mm if I remember correctly, needle seated position, measuring from the base of the gasket surface to the top of the float (Flat spot when turned upsidedown) Good luck...I still think it's dirt or sumthin....

It all depends on how long those brass idle screws are. I think mine are from Toomey direct, and they seem a little shorter than the ones I just put in my buddie's Tuesday night, which were from Vito's. I'd take just enough off to make that boss FLAT, thread 'em in and see how it goes. Again, you're going to have to dismantle the whole carb to clean out the shavings, etc. GOOD LUCK!!

carbparts.com This sounds shitty...but I normaly get my jets from my dealer 4 miles away. I know I could save a little money by getting them online...but, by the time you factor in wait time and shipping...hell...it's just easier to poke my head in the door. Most engine builders on this site have jets you need in stock...

Bob, home of RB Racing in MI, was a great buyer. Paypaled the money for the cylinders Sunday, and I told him to hold off on paying for the crank until he received and inspected it. Got in from the garage, and the money for the crank was already there. A man of his word, really nice guy and prompt responses and payment. Thanks again Bob. Dave

Usually every other ride. It's what...about 9 bucks a quart... Gotta pay to play... Pay a little now, or a lot more later....

Try your hand (pun intended) with a set of Answer Mechanix gloves. They don't have the padding on the other side of the fingers/knuckles, but...they're relatively cheap, you can get 'em at any local automotive store...and they last!

Time for at least a re-ring, really a fresh bore and top end. My 96 ran very strong with 115 to 110PSI, but...took about 5 or 8 kicks to get her to start. My buddy just picked up a 98 with about 5 hours on it..bone stock, first kick everytime. With a fresh build, you should be 125ish...or so. Give or take.

You are thinking of the air screw...which is just below and behind the newly installed idle screw. Think about it. The slides need to be raised just a hair to idle. If you turn the idle scew in till it touches the carb slide, then back it out...the slides are completely closed. The bullet nose of the idle screw pushes against a ramp on the slide. The more you turn it in, the more the bullet "walks" up the ramp and raises the slide(s).... And...that air screw adjustment is reference only. You can end up with .25 to 3.5 turns out on that bad boy...

Idle screw turned all the way in???? IF you could get it to idle...it'll probably do so at about 5000 RPM. The adjustment on the tops of each carb is to sync the carbs slides. Together with the cable going into the thumb/twist throttle, you remove most of the slack, and use the adjusters on top of the carb caps to syncronize the slides. I've done quite a few TORS removal kits. Did you grind off just a little bit of metal from the aluminimum boss where you drilled and tapped the carb? that locknut needs to sit flush on the carb boss. When you turn the brass idle screws in...did you check to see if the slides are raising or not? Lastly...this is my advice... Do each carb separate. Lightly turn in the idle screw until it just makes contact with the slide. Turn the idle screw in a full 2 turns clockwise. Lock it down. Do the same with the other. You'll find a good idle will be had anywhere from 1.0 to 3.0 turns in once seated against the slide. It all depends on how much you grind off to make the surface flush. That should get you started....

You're going to get a ton of answers here...might want to search around. I personally have always run Bel Ray Gearsaver 80W in every two stroke quad and dirt bike transmission I've ever owned. Some say ATF, it's cheap, you change it more often. Some say don't use Synthetics, some say they are fine, some say different weight/viscosity fluids... Everyone has an opinion on this one, there is NO clear cut winner. It's like asking the best builder, best pipe, best tires, best pre-mix, hottest chick in the world...Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge.... It's all personal preference....period... I'd search...gather your own info based on other's opinions...and start from there.... Best of luck...

No shit...Ellison. Punctuation is such an aggravation..huh?

Turning the front rims around. You have to plug the old valve stem hole (so it doesn't hit the brake componenets) and drill a new hole in the opposite side of the rim. That is the cheap, easy man's way....it will stress out the front end a little more. The next thing is buy new rims with an offset... The best idea is longer A Arms and longer shocks...but, that's big bucks...