dajogejr

Your PC is beyond fixing...all that porn. I'm heading in the right direction...put 310 mains in it...it's a little better. I got nervous...wouldn't start at all...I left the choke tube off when I put the head back on... I'm going to lean the needle out tomorrow...and see how it goes.... Oh...and I cleaned up the wiring and replaced some burned wires...I've got lights again....

Yep...length. Twist cable will not work on thumb, and vice versa...

Non Oring is lighter...for racing that's better. Normally...a +6 swingarm means a little more drag racing... That being said...I've been hooked on X ring for some time... My DID Xring gold was awesome...and I like the X Ring RK i have now even better. X ring or O Ring is a better trail chain...

That's funny...I had to go check to make sure none of my buddies stuffed a "tato" into my tailpipe...wouldn't put it past 'em.... Didn't test for an airleak...that's going to be one of the last items on the list...after I rule out spark and jetting... At 180 PSI...I know I'm getting plenty of squeeze at the plug end...and the station I got my race fuel from is very busy...I know it's pretty fresh!

Geez...Loco...bout time you chimed in.... They are wet...a little gray for my taste. But, then again it's only run for less than 15 minutes or so total. I'm going to wait going any smaller on the mains until I get my head back on...and swapping CDIs. Then...I'll start with a leaner needle clip. It's going to be some simple tuning...throwing bigger carbs at it for the sake of "it'll run better" is not the answer here....

You know...another friend of mine said the same thing. The cub actually makes the stock carbs much, much more efficient...and it might not need as much main... But, 380 to 350 yielded no changes...and, I'm still not able to get past 1/8 throttle. Once I get it back together, I'm going to loosen the gas cap to make sure i'm not locking it in vacuum...and changing the CDI with one I have laying around. If that still doesn't cure it...then, I'm going to lean out the needle first...then main. I can tell you going from a 27.5 pilot to 25 (stock) it did start and idle better...

No...run 45:1 if you want. Don't change your mixture in substitue of rejetting your carbs, period.

They're all the same.... Make sure you get the carb caps, Drill, tap and two brass idle screws with locking nuts. Also...make sure you get the correct throttle cable...too. Motion pro sells the twist throttle kit, plenty sell the idle kit.... I have a twist throttle that got used two or three times I'd let go for cheap, if you're interested. I also have a spare set of carb caps, minus the dust booties. All you'd need is the idle screws...I have three sets of the drill and tap (I've done mine and two other buddies...).... Let me know if you're interested... You sure you wanna go twist...shees are a handful in the trail...and I come from a dirtbike background to boot.

I don't know what PSI the stock cap is rated for...but, you can pick them up at an automotive store, as well...just make sure the PSI is the same. These are the same size about all imports and many newer domestics run...

Jeff from fast just sent me a new X ring for my 6 over and stock carrier... He must've had a few beers...cause I had to cut off about 8 links or so... Always easier to get a few more links than to add another master...

Exactly... You managed to put into two sentences what took me a paragraph...I've always been a bit long winded...

Well...this is not entirely true. While going from 42:1 to 32:1 is richening the mixture, it is actually leaning out the jetting. Think about this. Gas will flow through a jet quicker than gas mixed with oil, right? (Thicker)... Stay with me here. The more oil you have in your gas...the thicker it will be, right? That being said...more oil in your gas...actually leans out the mixture a bit, since it can't flow as quickly through small...brass holes as that mixture with less oil. Changing oil ratios should never be a substitute for proper jetting.

You most likely have the Toomey needles (made by dynojet)...they have 6 grooves...as you said, stock are 5.

I've got oversized fuel lines from the tank, nice clean T Fitting, and new lines to the carbs. I'm pretty sure it's getting gas...and plenty of it. I will...however, invest in clear lines just be be sure.... Again...if this was a top end issue, I could defintately see a shortage of gas...but, it can't be using that much at 1/8 throttle.... I do appreciate all the input...New Head studs, acorn nuts and washers on the way and will have tomorrow. Back to the drawing board... D"oh...just reread that... Just for giggles...I'll try loosening the gas cap till it almost falls off...and see what happens....

Remove the bowl, remove the main and plastic splash gaurd around it. You'll see the little hole opposite side of the main from the needle and seat. You'll need a tiny flat head screwdriver to get it out. I used a micro screwdriver kit to remove mine. Get a thin strand of wire, any kind...speaker wire, etc. remove the pilot and clean the holes with that wire...that'll knock/brush any dirt off it that air won't. For Sanity's sake...a compression test since it's 3 years old and you drag race would be a good idea....

http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=954&catid=146 29.95 Plus shipping...about 6 bucks UPS Ground. Got one of these babies for my stock carrier +6...

Since it idled fine...started fine...but won't get past 1/8 throttle...I thought needles right off the bat. Others here go right to the main...but, I can't even get there... I took the whole ignition side apart to make sure the air gap was fine...it is. Also, to make sure there were no pinched wires, etc....there aren't. Like I said, it'll start and run fine. It will not take ANY gas once in gear going to take off....

Thanks...Race...that's exactly what I'm thinking... At this point...I thnk it's a spark issue. I closed the gap to .020 to see if it'd help...but then I noticed a bit of coolant on a head stud, pulled the head...and that's where it stands. It was 172 in one cylinder, 180 in the other.... I showed Jeff some pics of the cylinders...and the rings haven't even seated yet....

rshe...thanks, but no thanks.... This is not a bigger carb problem. I know bigger carbs will give me 5 to 15 horse on top end. Smaller carbs should work better than large carbs on the small end...period. The cutouts go towards the air filter side. I'm workign with Jeff and DLNOss to get new studs and acorn nuts...and do it over again. I have a spare CDI given to me by a friend that sold his shee. I can't be 100% positive it is good, but...I'm going to try it anywho... Reeds are in great shape. No gap...no cracks, burns, etc. Stock cages, boyseen reeds. I just got the head last Wednesday...I'm sure it's a newer design...I'm sure Jeff sells enough of these to not sit around on the shelf!!!

Thanks...Tim. I'm positive the slides are right...cutout towards the back. I'm very very good with these carbs. I do have an extra CDI sitting on the bench at my house. I think I may try that next...

Hey...lowrider. Thanks for your help and input...I greatly appreciate it. NOSS head, bought new from Jeff with big bore domes and I THINK 18cc...it has 180PSI. I bought all new head studs, permatex'd each one...and I did have one leaking just a bit. As of right now, the head is off...and I'm going ot have Jeff get me some longer studs. 8 of the ten studs he sent me were short ones, 2 are perfect. I ended up stripping out 3 or 4 of the acorn nuts that come with the head, so I had to use the stock nuts in place. I thought I took my time and went over everything...Jeff took 45 minutes on the phone with me to over and explain everything in detail, I wrote it down..and followed his advice to a T. To answer your other questions. TORS have been gone since day 1. I have K&N Pods on the back, just cleaned, dried and oiled today...and not over oiled, either.

Tim...that is exactly the sheet I looked at prior to my purchase. A&S Racing (Dan Hull) helped design the port layout on these cubs. I KNOW I can get more ponies with bigger carbs, as said. But, it should run ok with stockers.... I believe this is also with a stock cut head, I've been told that Dan rechambers and cuts the stock head...since the cubs cool so efficiently with the larger water jackets and better design. As I said...a 500 main jet won't do me any good if I can't get it to run right past 1/8 or 1/4 throttle....

Yup...sure did. Golden oldie there!! I even took the stock hose off....got some brand new fuel line, smaller ID, and used a lighter to heat it up...pressed it on for a nice, tight fit. Thanks...though, Blue... I know this motor is goingt to rip once I get it done...I should be pushing 70HP plus...way up from the 45ish I was at before. But...like I said, It won't run past 1/8 throttle or so. Another HQ'er PM'd me about changing my needles. Went from Toomey (Thinner but longer) to stock and still the exact same thing. I noticed a drop of coolant on top of one of the head studs...so, I tore the head off, and I'm going to redo the studs again. I Permatex'd the studs before I put 'em in per Jeff's advise...but...this one still leaked. None in the cylinder...though... I was looking forward to a dune trip this weekend...that might be put on hold. I'll have Jeff overnight me some 35's if that's going to help, but...I think I have other problems I'm not ready to throw another 350 at until I get this $2400 motor the way it should be.....

I am fully aware that I'm limiting the potential of this motor with stock carbs. I'm planning on 35PWKs from Jeff. However, it should run MUCH better than it is now, even with stock carbs. I talked with Jeff, and he said 380 would be a good starting point. It runs like shit no matter what... I know the stock carbs are limiting this thing big time on top end...but, smaller carbs should be more efficient on the bottom end than the 35's...I should at least be able to get it to run ok....if not perfect. I tried the choke trick with the 380s...and it ran worse. That just tells me the jetting isn't that far off...if it is in fact the jetting... To go from 380 to 350 with no difference whatsoever.. Keep in mind...it is doggy OFF IDLE...it won't even get to 1/4 throttle....

Just got my 4 mil cub motor together. I've PM'd Jeff from FAST already...however, I'd like to solicit your input as well. Stock carbs, T5 Pipes, no airbox. This bike, albeit worn out before rebuild, ran very, very strong. I now have new: 4 mil Wisco Crank. 68MM Cubs. Noss head (18cc I think, 180 PSI), Blaster Wisceo Pistons. Yes...double checked the arrow to the exhuast, rings properly installed, etc. I have stock pilots (had 27.5, but turned the air screw about 3 turns out, put stocks back in) I tried 380 Mains, now 350. (Had 330s and ran strong before) Went from Toomey/Dynojet needles back to stock in middle clip (Stock cages, boyseen reeds with almost no gap at all) Starts up first kick, idles great. Put it in gear, and above idle it won't take any gas...just chugs along, it won't get past 1/8 throttle. In Nuetral, revs quick, rappy...strong, as it should. Under load it's dead. Tried the choke trick...an it ran a tad worse. Tried it with 380s and 350s...same thing. Like I said, starts perfect, idles perfect...one kick. Now...the issue. Headlights no longer work at all. Worked fine before. White wire plug connected, as are the single black and yellow wires (bullet connectors) I changed the timing plate (RS) from +5 to 0. No difference at all.... So...whatcha think? Running 110 fuel with 40:1 Maxima Super M...Octane shouldn't be a problem.... I just want to get it running as it should...break her in nicely, and rip some ass at the sand dunes. I'm thinking Stator or Reeds...what you think? Should mention, tried two different sets of brand new NGK B8ES, .030...and triple checked the air gap on the flywheel, it's at .020.