dajogejr

IF you have 220 PSI AND a timing plate, you'd need more than 112 octane. Get a new compression tester...it's broke...as I said in a different post... 18cc heads at sea level according to Dave Noss's chart (which...yes, is an approxamation) only yields 197PSI... The fact that you'd have 20 PSI over that is a little too hard to believe....

Here's the dead horse...here's it getting beaten... Seriously, this is probably one of the top 3 most covered and repeated topics here on the forums. Please use the search button instead of creating another 300 page thread. We need more info. Best all around for you may not be the best all around for me. Figure out what type of riding you'll commonly be doing, and search...based on that make your descion. You're going to find out they fall into 2 main categories, drag or full dune pipes, and trail or all around pipes. Within those categories, every one has their own preference for what works good. To be honest, unless you have a ported motor/stroked motor, you probably won't take full advantage of a drag style, top end pipe, i.e. Shearer, Rockets or CPI... Look around, you'll find more than you'll need to know.

24:1??? I'd try leaning that as well, 32:1 or 40:1...more oil doesn't always mean more protection... As said...300 would be a good safe starting number. You didn't mention your elevation...any idea what it is?

Based on the picture... 1 set of Pilots 2 sets of mains 1 set of needles... Similar to the Toomey kit, I think the needles are longer.. I'd call them and see what mains they come with. I just checked on Magic's site. They used to sell the Toomey/Dynojet kit for 29.99... You're probably better off with your stock needles, stock pilots and purchasing the mains you need at 3 or 4 bucks a pop...

Each bike is own... I've jetted two recently with airbox and no lid, 280 and 280. Jetted my own (pre Cub) and my buddies with K&N Clamp Ons, 330 and 340... We're only 300 or so feet higher than you... Plugs are the only way to tell...

I'm sorry...but if this isn't a direct statement of one's character and willingness to help others, I don't know what is. Sorry for adding one more to this already tired and over dramatized thread...but, all my buddies at the dunes two weekends ago couldn't believe their ears as much as Jeff tried to help me with my "little" motor on a weekend.... Jeff...you da bomb...those of us that have worked with you know it, and it's why we keep calling and coming back for more...

I just spent about 2500 with Jeff, cub stroker, NOSS head, and some odds and ends, gaskets, etc. I've shipped a ton of shit in my day. I work with Computers. You think it's tough to ship a little steel/aluminium motor, try shippping a 10K server, laptop, etc. My shit was packaged right...I'd almost say Jeff used too many styrofoam peanuts, etc. Fasterthanpoo...did Jeff not ask you to take pictures of the items and packaging to take a claim with UPS? Did he not try to resolve this problem with you?? I don't care how well you pack something...if something is dropped 30 feet plus from a cargo hold on a UPS plane...it's going to be rough. Many of you have flown, you see the way those guys toss around your luggage. And that's just clothes, etc... Maybe you should tell the whole story instead of just the little bit you endulged us with here... I can appreciate your input...but tell the whole story...

Sorry...Toomey may make a great pipe. His jet kits are for shit. You could very easily change your main jet for every 1000 to 1500 ft of elevation, not every 3000. His kit will get you close. His claims are they are the correct jets, period...isn't always true. Your bike is unique to you...period. Reading your plugs and listening to your bikes are the only sure ways, short of a dyno and air/fuel meter...period. No one here can tell you the exact jetting...not even Toomey. We all, however, can get you in the ballpark....

Craftsman makes good tools. Snap On makes great tools. It's a toss up...driving to your local store, or waiting on the delivery guy... If you can afford the Snap On, you will not be dissapointed. My buddy used a cheap ass compression gauge on his sled. It read 135, 180 and 145. (Yes..triple Ski Doo) I told him if that was accurate, he'd need race gas for the center cylinder.. My other buddy, who makes a living as a city Heavy Equipment mechanic spares no expense on his tools. I borrowed his Snap On Comp tester, and whaddaya know, his sled tested out 140 across the board. Needless to say, when that buddy with the sled bought his first banshee a month ago (98..hardly ridden) he brought the Snap On tester to check it. 125PSI in each...Like I said, he got the steal of the year on his shee. 98 for 1800. 100% bone stock! Down to the OE grips, tires, air filter, etc. Just my .02...

No doubt Jeff's customer service is very, very hard to beat. I was stuck at the dunes...two weeks ago on a Friday trying to get my Cub setup (think I have it...another subject) and late Friday, 6PM or so...Jeff was holding up UPS to get a carb order together for me. It ended up being a little more than my wallet could stand (carbs, cables, intakes and filters) albeit it was at a FANTASTIC price...I still needed gas/food to get home... You all know what's that's like. But...bottom line, Jeff was waiting for me to pull the trigger. Talked to him after hours, weekends, etc. Like someone else said...He is damn near like OnStar for banshee owners. Jeff's wife might not like him to much anymore.......but, he's beloved here on the HQ and by his customers... I can only wait to get my motor together and running to brag to him about that...too!! Another Kudos to Jeff and FAST Racing....

There are two Magic Racings...they are no longer affiliated with each other. They got divorced...don't know the whole story... One is in Pontiac, the other is in Shelby on Van Dyke between 22 and 23. Magic in Shelby doesn't do porting/boring/suspension work in house...they send it out. So...why pay the middle man, go right to one of the other machine shops listed. RB racing bought my old cylinders and crank, and Bob seemed like a helluva nice guy. I'd give him a shout....

Toomey (Dynojet) needles don't have a middle clip (there's 6 clips total) 4th down from the blunt end is stock, you'll end up on the 3rd or 4th clip from the blunt end with those mods...depends on how well your motor likes those cages...

I agree with above... You'll end up with 270 to 290 Mains, stock pilot, 1.0 to 2.0 out on the air screw... You may have to lean your needle out one clip (one towards the blunt end) if it doesn't feel right in the middle. V Force richens the middle circuit...you may have to lean your needle accordingly. Over 300 mains and you'll be rich keeping your airbox.

???? there is...PM Sredish...he might recall the thread a little easier... He basically lays down how much advance from the CDI from idle to 10 or 11K RPM...

Looking myself...too...

It varies...based on RPM. Your stock CDI varies the timing curve as RPMs rise/fall. Sredish had a great writeup here a bit ago about exactly how the stock timing is set and at what RPM...

Damn...wish I had the loot laying around. Free Bump... I'm torn right now between twin 35's or a single 38.... By the way, Cascade Innovations has a pretty good deal on the 38PWK 1 into 2... http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...ORE_DEPT_ID=264

You can get your stock head machined and cut for big bore pistons. However...for a little more dough, you can a nice looking aftermarket head with replaceable/changeable domes as well. Either will work, depends on your needs and wallet.

It's the base gasket on the left side. Didn't even pull the side cover off...it bubbled up after I sprayed water/soap on it... I'm ordering a new base gasket from Jeff, and I already have two brand new crank seals on standby in case I need 'em. It's pissing air so badly that I Have to put a new base gasket on first before I can pressurize it again to test the crank seals... Stay tuned.

Think I got her figured out...leak down test with a kit I put together myself, with a little guidance from RNBRAD's write up. Left side cylinder is pissing out air...won't hold 6 PSI at all...just leaks all out. So...pretty much any jetting or any carb in the world wouldn't have saved this build. Just wanted to give you all a head's up. I could publish step by step and the part numbers I used to build my own leak down tester...if anyone is interested....

If you are talking about Bill's Pipes, thunder series, they're fine. I agree bore the stockers to 28mm. Why mill the stock head?? He has a messed up Cool head..fix that. Rocket Pipes, Shearers or CPIs are down the list until he's ready for a top end drag style pipe. You forgot the two, simplest and easiest mods for a little gain. A Ricky Stator timing plate (35 plus shipping) and a lightened flywheel (prices vary...) IMO, these two mods are a must for any shee owner after pipes and better air intake system...

I will second that after seeing his bike run in person. It is the benchmark I gauge the other banshees at Silver Lake with... Granted, he got beat (not by much) by a Hayabusa powered banshee when we were all there last year....that's not even the same class. However...he's done more to his shee since then...so, it might be a different story now. After seeing BadAss's bike run, I was sold on a 4 mil cub setup. Granted...I will not be going drag port, 39 carbs or drag pipes for a while....I know I'll have a rocket on my hands ...if I ever get her running...

Actually...Magic does include the pin bearings for free... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=135&catid=133 I looked quickly at RMATV's site...and it looks like you have to buy the piston, rings and circlips...then, the pins, bearings and gaskets separately. I didn't see a top end kit complete as I do at Magic... So...unless I missed that page, I think Magic would be the way to go. If you have .030 over now, and the bike didn't blow up and ran good, I'd say purchase the .040 piston kit, give the pistons to your builder, and have him bore it accordingly.

PM'd you back. Thanks...John.

PM Me the info...total $ with shipping, paypal email address...I'll get it to you right away. With all my problems with my 4 mil cub, I have three things left. CDI, Carbs or I f****d it up putting it all together. Guess which one comes first and is cheapest? Thanks...John. DJ