dajogejr

Don't be so sure. A compression tester does not "leak back"..in other words, as the compression builds...it just puts more on the gauge. It won't "back down" at all. That's where a leak down tester comes in handy. It took me about 40 bucks and two trips to the hardware store to make my own... Rubber plugs for the bottom of chair/table legs work nicely, brass fittings, and I removed the bottom check valve from my low tire pressure gauge...since you only want to use about 6PSI...and you want to give the gauge a chance to leak down... I will agree...however, the rubber boots are most common. it's a 10 minute check...9 1/2 spent warming it up... I tried PB Blaster (WD 40 clone) and it did nothing. I was told to use a "thinner" chemical, and throttle body cleaner did the trick. Bike almost died when I soaked the area around the base gasket....

Check the rubber for cracking around the reeds... Spray around the reed gaskets, too...they're the most common point.

I'm sure many a tuner are burning the midnight oil for aftermarket goodies to tune this thing. 18 inch rear tires out of the factory though...c'mon.... Most people trail ride these things...18 inch is good for only the MX track. How bout some twinks on the rear of that thing?? I've only seen one stocker run...was ok, nothing special.

445...been going through all this lately... Been having all kinds of problems with my new Cub...I got it under control now! I've basically been going through all the steps I learned years ago...but haven't had to put to use until lately! Thanks!

Christ....it's like deja vu... Warm it up, pickup some carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner, two cans. Spray around the head, douse the shit out of it. Spray around the base gaskets, spray all around the rubber boots around the intake. When it starts to die down...you've found it.

Elevation? Exhaust Pipe Type? Temperature you ride in? Ditch the boost bottle, it's in the way and does nothing. Stroker engine? Who did the work? What do they recommend?

You bore out the venturi of the carb, not the slides. That's the horizontal passage from your air filter(s) leading into your intake. I don't think you'll gain much by a cold air intake. If your bike did 150 MPH..I'd say yes. If all you did was drag race on pavement, it might be worth while...however, your probably going to suck in more dirt and crap than what it's worth... There's really not enough speed involved to take advantage...like say a drag car or Nascar. Secondly...your airfilter sits out in the open, somewhat...unlke a car with the air filter stuffed under the hood of a hot engine. PM Boonman about your lightened flywheel. He works out of New York. But...like you said...check with him to see if he'll ship overseas.

Make sure you push the plastic spacer on the kickstart gear assembly all the way back before you put the cover back on... The tourque specs for the clutch spring bolts is 7.5 Ft. Pounds...I think. Clymer is not handy... Do NOT overtourque these...they will snap off. You can grind the rivets off the back side of the basket...until they're flush, then use an air hammer/chisel to push them out.

1. Boost Bottle 2. Amp Link 3. Nitrogen instead of air for the tires 4. Aftermarket Kickstand 5. hand/thumb warmers

Duecue...god damn you're funny... I wish you could've made this list for me a while ago...instead of just fucking around with the basics...

10% is the general rule of thumb. If they are within 10% of eachother...you should be good to go...

UNless you have an aftermarket head like Noss, Cool Head or Hemi head, then no...you can not reuse the gaskets. The above mentioned heads use rubber o rings, which can be reused. There are a ton of indicators that could mean a gasket is leaking. Problem is...Other things can be wrong and "look/feel/smell" like a gasket leak that aren't...too. Why don't you tell us the problem, and we'll try and help better...

1. Pipes 2. Air Filter 3. Tires 4. Timing Plate 5. TORS Removal Adjusting your suspension is free...just time consuming. This list is on a lower budget...2, 4 and 5 are less than 150 bucks...very inexpensive and possibly the best bang for the buck after pipes. However, if budget isn't an issue (lucky you) aftermarket suspension is higher up the list... After my buddy T5'd his bone stock 98, removed the TORS and K&N'd it...he bought Razr2's within 2 weeks... Stock tires are bad enough...pipe your shee...forgetaboutit....

Figure (depending on your altitude) about 130 or so new. Less than 100 and it's time for rebuild, taking into consideration there's no leaks in gaskets, etc., or...if one cylinder is more than 10% more/less than the other. This figure is for sea level type elevations. Compression drops about 5 to 10lbs roughly for every 1000 feet or so.

I've had holeshot XCRs since last year...I used to like them, until my buddy had the Razr 2's mounted up under his shee when I came over. A puncture wound to one of them was my first thought...after I got done drooling over them, of course.... They look bad ass...I think If I ever get my cub motor running, the old XCRs aren't going to hold up very long...2's might be in the very near future...

Exactly...however, they make a low profile stem if you don't want to drill. Ebay has 'em. Then...you have to take the wheel off to add air. Kind of a waste if you ask me. When you turn lock to lock, the inside wheel can damn near rip itself off...so, be careful. That being said...I love mine and it compliments my +4 durablue out back.

My buddy...who's into four strokes, read with a pipe, air filter, cam and the Cherry bomb, you can get 55 HP out of that Zuke... Anyone read anything similar...? I do like their single under the middle exhaust. However...they sound like SHIT stock....yet to hear one with an aftermarket pipe. I only saw one at Silver lake two weekends ago...bone stock, not impressive...

Could always use that dipstick thing...too...

Amen... I wish I had the time and resources. I could pick up quite a few clean ones here on this side...and ship 'em over to CA and make a good grand or so off each one!

Thanks...ducman, that's what I was trying to get at. It takes 1500ccs. So...it'll end up being between 1.5 quarts and 1.75 quarts....

DO NOT buy car oil. They have special detergents for keeping a motor clean... Buy some gear saver or other oil designed to be used in two cycle engine cases. 80W gear oil for motorcycles works just fine in the winter... It's compatible or comparable to 10W40 oil..viscosity/weight wise...

Depends... West Coast they're pricey as hell...East Coast over here...much cheaper. Since he won't tell you a price, low ball him...that's what he gets for trying to sucker you, and not tell you what he wants. I'd offer his 2000 for the 94.... I'd hate for you to offer him 2700, when he was looking for 2200...ya know?

1. Clymers manual is the banshee bible....all this info is in there. 2. This varies...some will say ATF, gear oil, hydrallic oil, etc. I personally have always used Bel -Ray Gearsaver 80W oil...never hand a tranny problem in any of my 2 stroke transmissions. As long as it's not Crisco....

His sig says 18cc...

I would buy a good compression tester (Name brand, not cheapie junk one) and test your compression. Anything more than 10% difference between the two cylinders and/or less than 100PSI means it's rebuild time. A good machine/engine shop should be able to Mic (measure) the cylinders and pistons to see if they are past wear limits...or if they can be re-used and re-rung.