dajogejr

a. What do you mean they're too big. Elaborate? b. You should grind those bosses you just tapped flat, so the lock nut can seat and lock flat. If one is in a little further than the other, so be it. I take each carb, turn the screw until it JUST touches the slide. Then, I turn it in 1.5 turns to start. You'd better make sure the carbs are sync'd properly, too while you're at it... This isn't a hard mod to do, just patience and precision....

Penzoil??? You're kidding, right? Synthetics are fine for the motor/premix. The clutches don't like synthetics...makes 'em slip...

Free bump. Tell you what, this bike and your 450R are Clean with a capital C. Very nice bikes, man...good luck with the sale!!

I might be interested. Do you already have stock carbs? I do...TORS Removed with cable. Would you be willing to think of trade plus cash? I'm riding this weekend, so...it'd be beginning of next week before we could think about this...you interested?

JT...my friend, couldn't have said it better myself. I could've told you Mio was tight. Remind me of a larger Mounds, or even Gladwin system. Since the guys we've been going with have ridden Peacock a ton of times, we all agreed to try something new. Lax laws in the UP for riding (Cops and DNR generally aren't as bad) and new, wide open legal trails sounds like the idea! Plus...two of the guys we're going with have been riding snowmobiles there for 20 years...so, we have guides... This will be my first time out on my new build. To say I can't wait would be an understatement. I'm just hoping these are "peacock-like" trails to get to enjoy my new motor...!! You know what I mean!

Sucks bro...been there, done that. The trails I've rode at Mio were whooped and tighter, some open areas. Heading up to the UP this weekend, going to ride in the Newberry area. If the trails up there run the same lines as the snowmobile trails, it should be open throttle fun!! Best trails I've rode to date yet are in Peacock, MI...closer to Cadillac. 4th and 5th pinned trails, wide as a car or more 90% of the time. With about 10 other quads, it was awesome! I think it was a 27 mile loop or so...

That is a good point, often overlooked. Aside to making sure your carbs are sync'd...check the fuel line for restriction. That baby should rip....

Sell it... I'd rank it with Boost Bottle, Amp Link, and the purple powerband...

If you already have the timing plate, what do you hope to gain from this? Get a stock CDI..they work fine. Or, get a Dyna... Unless you're running wild compression and/or alcohol...stock CDI is just fine...

Laser Cutting is the way to go. It has mainly to do with the dogs being trimmed...I think. I saw Mike @ DynoEdge doing it this weekend, but...didn't want to bother him...just kinda asked him in passing.

can't help you on how to. I can tell you your best off with a 2-5 override.

Bascially, you'll see a plugged boss on the outside of each of the carbs. It's next to the vent hose outlet. Word of caution, place a small piece of wood or other soft object into the carb so the drill going through doesn't nick the other side. Also, completely dissasemble your carbs, inclucing all jets prior to drilling or tapping...the slightest metal shaving in a jet will cause endless headaches. Lastly, use a TON of penetrating oil like WD40 or PB blaster when running the tap, repeatedly. Aluminimum like oil... Remember, 3/4 turn in, 1/2 turn out. Patience...well worth it in the end... Good luck!

Agree with the rat... No synths. Before I go for a long ride, I'll take a quick 2 or 3 minute rip to "heat up" the chain. Then, I'll come back, oil her up...and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. Then...off again. I'll usually put a light coat of WD40 or PB Blaster on my chain right after I wash it...to keep the rust off, espeically if I know I won't be riding for a few weeks ( )

I plan on running stock gearing on trail and dunes with my new motor... However, we have a 1/2 mile long grass field we're going to be drag racing in...and when that happens, I'll be going 16/40 or so. Need for top end...baby!! 1/4 mile is more than enough to top a shee out...so, I'll be gearing up for that...

Generally...the cylinders are already as big as the gasket. Doesn't hurt to check, though. However, make sure the gasket is seated properly, or centered if you will.

I would say you've done your research quite well. I'd start with the 350 main, only because of your elevation...and it would not shock me to see it ending up with a 360 or so...simply because "your high".... I think 27.5 pilot should be fine, and it'll be middle or 4th clip on the needle if anything. I know VForce says to lean it a clip...but, with your elevation...you need to compensate by richening it. I'd say start in the middle.... Other than that...good research!!

Word...you might drop the main 1 or 2...maybe. That is safe advice from Ell though...

My biggest problem is it claims to give you 1000 more RPM. Well, in two stroke land, ignition doesn't limit RPM, porting, compression, timing, pipes and carbs do that.... So, it's a lie up font, which would make me weary...however, never used one, so I can't say if it's a good product or not!

I just did mine.... As said, I put the big bore base gasket down, used a sharpie...then, used a carbide dremel to remove the metal a little at a time, carfully. Then, I used a scotchbrite pad and die grinder to smooth it. NOT polish it...just smooth the metal. Worked fine here...

I use 5/16....

Believe it or not...it made those ponies on stock carbs and T5 pipes. Just picked it up Friday, yet to ride it really...just ripped down the road from DynoEdge...wow is all I can say. In my stockers I have 350 Main, DynoJet needles 4th clip, 32.5 pilots. These 4 mil cubs love a fat pilot... Before this motor, my bone stock motor was 330 mains, same needle, 25 pilots. I'm going to get 35PWKs soon...but, with my setup and that HP...I think I'm going to be happy for some time before I go bigger... Plus...I'm less than 1000Ft, too... Sorry...wish I could help

Have you leak down tested the motor yet?

Unless you're running alcohol...you probably don't need a pingel. Pingels sure are nice, but overkill for your (our) motor.... As posted in your other thread, I think it's 16mm for the Kehin. Call Jeff...he'll know for sure... Is your fuel line kinked or bent? try to find a Y adapter instead of that T...I'd invest in clear hoses, too...make sure fuel delivery is your problem.

Put the 25's back in, start with the screw .5 turns out. Warm it up... Turn the screws out 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, wait 20 seconds for it to take effect. Stop when you have the highest idle...they're set. Then, set the idle screws accordingly, if needed. FMFs like fatter pilots...but, 30 is too much. Try the 25s and see how it goes...if you end up with less than .5 turns out...then go bigger to 27.5. As you probably know, 21mm is the correct height on stock carbs.

Towards the blunt end to lean, towards the tapered end to richen. I think the Kehin are 16mm, flipped upside down, from gasket SURFACE to top of float. Normally, I set my floats close by eye...turn it upside down, and the floats are a little above being flat...