dajogejr

The T5s flow more on top...where...the main really kicks in. I wouldn't be surprised to see you go up one or two on the main... However...you can probably run a stock pilot, whereas the FMF like a fat pilot, 27.5 or 30s...

I would agree with the above... 2-4 sizes on the main with a K&N and no lid...and porting is the wild card... I went from a 330 main in mine to 350 with a cleanup port 4mil cub. It is possible you actually go DOWN a main size with porting, now that the engine is breathing more efficiently...but, 260 with no lid is most definately a safe starting point...

True enough...but, Clymers would be the Bible if the Banshee had one. They specify 10% I'm pretty sure...

http://www.rocketpipes.com/contact.htm Don't know his name...

Actually...10% of each other is the rule of thumb...

By reading his other posts...he rides with rsheppick. R rides at 5000 feet. 18cc domes don't need race gas at that elevation. Severe timing and 16 or 17cc domes would need a little more octane... Yep...squeeze test her, see where you're at...

Do you have enough compression and/or timing to need race gas? Yep, you can buy it over the computer....but usually once you're done with that, it's about the same to hit a local gas station and/or ATV/Cycle shop and buy it. Here's a few links to help you out: http://www.sunoco.navisite.com/ http://www.citgo.com/CITGOLocator/StoreLocator.jsp You could also do a search of local racing shops in your area...you're in NASCAR country...I'm sure there is plenty. Good luck.

Switch Plug wires, see if it kills the other cylinder. How do the plugs that came out look? Have you done a compression test? Both carbs getting fuel?

HE doesn't have a 4mil...read his post, he has a relativelystock motor (other than a new crank, stock stroke and a dune port, which could mean about anything...)... It's his buddy's 4 mil. I've read alot about t6's not being good on built motors. Even Toomey's site says so. However...until someone actually dyno's these pipes against eachother...I think it's going to be user preference... That being said, I love my T5s...and they still make good power on my 4 mil cub. With a carb meant for more low end and pipes meant for mid to top, you're either going to have a killer combo you like...or it's going to unbalance it and you won't...

Welcome aboard... It's a damn sickness I tell you (which my g/f will concur)... But, damn it sure is fun. Good group of folks here, very, very good resources for knowledge as well as parts/services needed.... I've learned a lot, hope I've helped a few...and met a few cool people off here!

I would contact the new owner, and see if he can help with your problem. I read on this board somewhere he helped another HQer that the old owners did not treat right...for free or very little out of pocket. If you haven't spent the money yet (sounds as if you have) just get some Shearers or CPIs...much more reputable... If you have, try the new guy...seems like a straight shooter...

Need to check for wear/notching on your baskets as well. Stock baskets aren't very good. Once they start notching (from wear and tear) they don't disengage properly... A new clutch basket helps this...smoother engagment/disengagement, etc. Make sure your inner/outer hubs aren't too worn, either...

I would agree with this 100%. Bike did feel snappier...but T5s pull longer, harder, and up the RPMs more... Depends on what kind of riding you do.

Throttle Override System... it's a good idea, better theory...but, in practice they suck. Removing them will not only lighten your throttle pull, but it'll make working on it easier...and eliminate the possibility of failure and having it run like crap...

Hey...slick, I didn't realize you were 100% perfect. I retracted my statement, and apologized for wrongly correcting him. Hilarious didn't seem to have a problem with it...and neither did the original poster. Maybe instead of opening your trap, you could actually contribute to this thread... If you noticed, once I corrected myself after Hilarious pointed it out... it was correct information. One article is not enough research to solve anything, however...it is a great place to START and go from on a baseline. No two machines are the same...period. However, there are safe starting points, which...is what this poster was looking for. After searching for and reading a few of your posts...you are definitely no one to judge another... You can't even jet your own shit with basic, basic mods, and your worried about wasting a 2.00 plug for a chop when it costs about 75 times that for a new top end... Contribute something or go somewhere else...smart guy....

I have read time and time again FMFs do like a fatter pilot. However, with an airbox still in place, I'd be very surprised if he needed larger than 27.5 pilots...

Need more info. TORS removed? Could be reeds, could be jetting. List of mods done? Could be the carbs are hosed because one has been drilled for an idle screw, the other hasn't...and if it's not drilled, how does it idle?? I'm more confused now for writing this... Remove TORS, if not already done. Get the idle for both carbs installed. Check the reeds. List your mods. List your jets. Try fresh gas/oil and new plugs, too.

Pics of the pipe hangers, please? PM me if you'd like... Thanks!

Ask a mod to move this to the "wanted" section instead of the for sale...might get a bite quicker...

His advice on the leakdown tester is priceless...get one, or you'll be back soon with the same problems. I think 320s are too fat for running an airbox, but you most definately will be safe. There is no need to run your oil at 16:1... Make sure you have a thin, thin coat of two stroke oil or WD40 on the cylinders when assembling it. Give the crank and bearings a quick squirt of oil too when assembling. Run the oil at the ratio you plan on running. Rich jetting AND rich premix could cause you some grief!!

All depends on how deep your wallet is. I'd say 4mil with 5mm longer rods, properly welded and trued is the way to go. But, you'll have to run a spacer plate or get the head cut accordingly... If you don't run the plate, the engine has to be ported properly... You're going down a money pit road, one well worth it...but, it just depends on your wallet. Talk to a reputable builder...see what they say. I can tell you first hand, from talking to Jeff @ FAST, we went over the whole motor when I built mine, from spark plug to drain plug, flywheel to clutch basket... he left no rock unturned...

Is the ASV a lever and perch...or just the lever? If both, PM me with pics, please!

Free bump... Not trying to be a smart ass, rather help you, honestly. .060 over is a 364cc bike. Good luck!

Do a search on Leak Down testers. If you don't want to go through the hassle of making your own, RB Racing makes a nice tester for about 50 bucks or so. This is a priceless tool to have. To be honest, if you're going to replace the crank seal, do them all. Vitos sells a compelete kit for about 30 bucks, crank seals, shift shaft seal, clutch arm seal.... You're going to have it torn down that far anyways, might as well cover 'em all... That banshee isn't getting any younger, ya know... Good luck.

Octane does drop off slightly the longer it sits. However...since race gas does not sell like normal pump gas, additives are added (hence the name additives...) to make it stay fresh longer. I just read a bottle of Klotz octane boost yesterday, and 1 ounce to a gallon raises your octane 2.5 pts. It ALSO says it will keep the gas fresh longer... My .02...