dajogejr

carb 101. Time to take them off, tear 'em down, and see what jets are in them. Also...use the search function here too, carbs are covered here 1000 times over. When you say it idles higher, what exactly do you mean? Normally, an air leak, once it warms up and idles...it'll raise up a few hundred RPM for NO apparent reason, like a Ghost was barely pushing your throttle. Is this what's happening?

I bought a whole new thumb throttle from Magic...it's still not much easier: http://www.magicracing.com/view_cart.asp I plan on getting new carbs soon, anyways...

It could be a lot of things. It could be idling higher cause the temps have changed... Start with a list of mods, as well as anything you've recently done.

Do NOT cut those springs. It will make the initial pull easier, but harder as 1/2 throttle or more is reached. If anything, lightly sand and smooth the outside of the springs for a lighter pull, that will make the tension easier. I have a thumb throttle extender from RMATV that I put on and took off immediatly cause I didn't like how it looked. It clamps to your stock throttle. Sure, a longer lever gives you more leverage...it also make the throw from closed to open longer too...so, balance out the good and evil. If you're interested in the thumb throttle extender I have, throw me a few bones for it and shipping, and it's yours. Here she is: http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...87&navType=type

No one became an expert overnight...keep asking away. Right before where your carbs mount to the engine, there are two rubber square shaped boots. They bolt directly onto your cylinders, and seal your carbs to your reed cages, the reed cages then to the block. Spray all around this black rubber... Remember to warm it up all the way, then try this.

Whooaa....I just reread your post. Stock Pipes? If you don't pick up more top end with pipes, I'll eat my hat... (ok, make sure no one stuffed a rag down your pipes...) Don't get me wrong, the NOSS head is great, but Pipes are an absolute must first mod on a shee...

Well...I knew you couldn't compare it like that... However, now that Good Will Hunting has enlightened us.... ( ).. Just kiddin man, that's good stuff. Hell if I know if it's correct or not, but...since it looks pretty fancy, I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt. HQ has a new rocket scientist... Seriously...that is good info, even if I scratch me head for a while trying to figure it out...

I've been well aware of the 35 setup...But, I went to Cascade...cause, let's face it...they have a ton of cool shit to drool over, tonz of bling. They specify the 38 for a cub setup, which I now have. However...for what I plan on using my bike for, duning and dragging...two carbs are better than one. I was leaning towards 1 for ease of tuning, and let's face it...a easier pull. However...once you get carbs dialed in and synced....they don't really need to change...

Medium to dark tan is what you want. You went to race gas...that doesn't always color plugs as quickly or easily as pump gas. It's probably got lead in it... How did you change your compression? Shaved head or aftermarket? Stock head does not cool as well as aftermarket...could be running a little warmer, burning off more of the premix, too.

I'd start with 340s, work your way down. Needle in the 3rd groove (stock). You can run stock pilots with those, .5 to 1.5 turns out...or, 27.5 with 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. I had the same setup minus the milled head, and ended up with 330s... Same elevation, same temps. However, at Silver Lake Dunes, I was wide open ALL the time, and it was just a hair lean. Not enough to melt down...but, I very well could've gone 340s or 350s....

A two into one setup will produce more low end than a pair of stockers. He is after low end, not top end... Cascade sells a 38mm kit 1 into 2....but, I think you're just looking for the carb itself... Start looking in the for sale section, as well as fleabay... Since Redline did your porting, perhaps you should see what they recommend. I have an IMS 5.5 gallon tank I may be selling. It's ugly, It's HUGE...but, it serves the purpose. I intended on trail riding my bike a little, and I run Race Gas...not easy to find on the trails we ride. I've decided to keep my bike as a dune/drag quad....so, the extra fuel isn't neccessary..... PM me if you'd like pics and details. I bought it off a fellow HQ'er...trinityshee, I think... Never put it on. It's painted blue. Again, it is FUGLY...but, you'd have an ocean tanker worth of fuel on your shee....

I would see what your compression is right now before you think about a timing plate, since you want to run pump gas. I'd say if it's 155PSI or less, you could probably get away with +4 on the timing. However...that's a risk you're going to have to take, and no one can be 100% positive until it's tried. If your bike is jetted properly for your temps and elevation, you should be ok. Again, check your comp before you do timing. Also...what about a lightened flywheel. It's a cheap mod that let's your motor get on the pipe much faster... Flywheel with +4 and your head should make some pretty good power...

Actually...soak the shit out of the boots, and it should cause the idle to die down... You can actually use throttle body cleaner, too...about the same stuff. I had a base gasket leak...soaked the piss out of her, and she almost died on me... I guess it all depends on how flammable the spray is, usually carb cleaner will make it die...make sure you give her a good coating.

Aww...c'mon, you just got that shee for 1000...spend a few bucks on it, will ya...

You asked the question...you said Bel Ray Gearsaver oil and break in in the same sentence. Gear Saver is TRANNY oil, not premix. So, I'm confused as all hell on what you're trying to ask. The next sentence you talked about Piston slap. ReRead what I've quoted above...do see where it doesn't make sense now?

Yep...then it'll be time for a crank shortly thereafter....stock ones aren't great...put more compression on 'em...and it really increases the "I Can't ride cause I blew my shit up" factor... Guess that's why you guys keep a 450 on hand, right?

And... At 140 PSI...you are perfectly fine with Premium Pump Gas, don't waste your money on race gas...

Send me the T6 and FMFs, and 50 bucks to cover dyno time. I'll be happy to give you a report how they run on my cub... Bottom line is...your porting may agree with your pipes, it may not...only one way to find out. Good luck...

Are you F**cking kidding me? The only thing that was correct in your statement is that you are 30 years old. I'm 29...I too have worked on cars AND dirt bikes/quads/snowmobiles, and just about every other small engine known, from weed eaters to lawnmower powered minibikes. You call it Idiotic crap?? Calling me out? Like I said, I'm glad you are so perfect you've never made a mistake. Go talk your car shit somewhere else. This is Bansheehq.com, not mustang this, supercharger that.com. I'm proud of you for working on cars. Obviously that hasn't translated an ouce of knowledge over to small engines. I'm one of the most cautious guys around...period. I Don't run incorrect fuel, oil, let my shit rattle till it blows up, etc. In fact, my motor probably only requires 105 octane but 110 is safe, so I use it. When I seek advice, I ask seasoned professionals who've been doing it for years, as well as forum members who's posts I've read in the past, and who's findings and experiences closely match my own. Why the f**K would I read corral forums? Is that a banshee/two stroke site? No...that's what this site is for.... The only similarities between a mustang and a banshee is they contain oil, gas, four rubber tires and those tires are black. Occasionally...an ass clown like you spouts off like you know something about either of them. I more than apologized for citing wrong information, and my reason for doing so. Furthermore, if the guy read that post, ran out and changed his jets, went for a rip and blew his shit up in the time it took someone to correct me...he should be in business of his own for working that fast. I never claimed or asserted I was some "guru taking him under my wing". Don't put words in my mouth, and don't assume you know what my intentions are or what I meant by them. You read it...leave it at that. If I have no clue on how carbs work then you better keep that quiet, I have quite a few friends who I've done work to their bikes, quads, etc., which seem to run quite well...and have for some time. You act like I wrote a shop manual or a bible...I gave advice, quickly retracted it..and quite humbly I might add. Do us a favor...sell your banshee and go back to your car forums. It's obvious you don't have a clue about two strokes, maybe you can convince someone over there you do. I'm no guru at all. But since this is your first experience with two strokes in your 30 years, and I've been riding them and working on them since I was 7 years old with my old man and my friends, SHUT THE FUCK UP...

Getting ready to buy one for my cub...will be interested to know as well. JT (Badassbanshee479) put one on his cub...it was breaking up...he said it stopped after the nology went on. I'm at that point now... Would like to know how you like it...

Shearer...all the way. Your stock motor will not be able to take advantage of them...but, Port your stocker, it'll be better. Cheetah or cub motor...that's where they'll really shine. I know Rockets have a new owner, who I believe is 12 to 15 weeks backed up...I'd steer clear of them until the new owner proves to be honest and trustworthy... Too much history of hassle on the old ones. (Although...Ray is a great, stand up guy IMO...) I got some toys to buy first (carbs, ignition, dunable override) then...Shearers will be on my Cub...

Take the carbs off, remove the bowl, and flip the carb upside down. The bottom of the float should be level, or just above level... That's close enough... You might want to remove the float, (small dowel pin) and remove the needle and seat and blow some air through there...to make sure there is no dirt stuck. Either improper float level, dirty needle and seat...or sunken float will cause gas to pour out the overflow tube. Sunken or bad floats are pretty rare now a days....

10/40 for the break in on the trans? Never heard that one. There are two schools of thought on break in... I ride it like I stole it after a few heat cycles on the engine. Can't say I've ever had to break a tranny in...so, I'd just ride it like you normally would...

I've been using a thin coat of Hi Temp RTV on my rings, I wouldn't recommend using them more than twice...unless you're in a bind. This allows them to stick to the surface, as well as seal properly... If you're using BelRay Gearsaver as a premix, I'd definetaly say you'd have problems.... If you mean saver for the cases, it's just fine. I've used that for years in all my 2 stroke trannys...never a problem...

It is possible the head or cylinder is warped...causing the leak... Also possible the gasket just let loose. A compression test should reveal that...if not, it's time to leak down test it. There are no rev limiters on a banshee. I think you mean the TORS, which in theory help cut the ignition if the slides stick. This is not the same as a rev limiter. For your info... The Pipes, timing, compression and carbs pretty much tell you how high it'll rev, or...better yet, when the motor will stop making power... You're in two stroke land now, bud...no popping once you hit 9 or 10 K...it'll just stop pulling. Good idea to shift then...