dajogejr

What do you mean by leakdown test no good? Warm it up...spray the shit out of it around the base gaskets first. Then, the intake boots, lastly the head. If it doesn't try to die out on you...most likely a crank seal. I would question gearing as well...however, you never mentioned if it pulled that gearing before or not in 5th and 6th...

Yep...ditto what this man said.

340 or 350 main. 27.5 pilots. Toomey (dynojet needles if you can get 'em) Stock needles have a lean spot in 'em. middle clip on stock needles, 4 clip from blunt end if you get teh dynojet needles. Air Screws 1.0 to 2.0 out. I had 330's and the above on mine..JT, with Toomeys. I'm assuming the shearers will flow a little more... I'd say 350 would be safe. Porting could make that go a little up or down...too. Good luck!

In Standish. I think Dusty has 500 Acres. Muddy as hell right now, can gaurentee you that. Got two nice 500ft drag strips...trails, and a small track. Helluva good guy. He's trying to commercialize the property...but, he's fighting a legal battle with the local golf course. You know golfers...they got plenty of $$ for lawyers, etc. He's had a few court cases, with more coming up. He's open for right now... basically, take I75 to Standish/Gladwin exit, 190. Hang a right and head East on M61, towards Standish. Don't quote me...but it's roughly about 10 miles or so, on the left hand side of the street (north side)... You go through downtown Standish. It's a HUGE red barn.

You do not need a kit. You only need to buy the specific jets you need. 25 a week? I'm going to assume you are a young kid...and your financial business is really none of our business. Save your money...and take it to a repair shop if this is too over your head... This is an expensive sport and habit...you might want to step back and think about how commited you are, and if you can afford it... Oil, plugs and gas for a weekend of riding is more than 25 bucks...

From one Michigan brother to another....welcome aboard...

Take another 5th gear run. When it starts to bog, pull the choke out halfway...if it gets better, you're too lean. Gets worse and wants to die, you're too rich. Bogging is normally rich condition... Off idle, try turning your air screws all the way in, lightly seating them. Start with 1/2 turn out on each, and stop when you get the best off idle throttle response.

That's about how mine looked when I pulled it out the first time. I took a die grinder and scothbrite pad and lightly removed 'em...temporarily.... I don't think those little grooves would cause the kind of slop your talking 'bout... Put that ball bearing for the clutch rod someplace safe. I drove around ALL OVER looking for one, no one was even close. Then, got back home and sifted by oil drain pan side to side, only to hear it rolling around...

Me and three friends are actually going this weekend...looks like we might have to go two weeks in a row!!

You want his work phone, home phone or cell phone?? 785-364-5325 M-F 10-6 // SAT 10-2 Central time! His handle here is Fastoys. Jeff's a helluva guy...

Honestly, before I built my motor, I ran 32:1. However, the race gas I must run now is leaded. Leaded fuel does lubricate a little bit...so, I"m runnign 40:1. I'm not saying you should run Super M, I'm just saying I run it. There are plenty of other quality oils, cheaper and more $$...that work just fine. Stay away from Crisco...and you're all set... I've heard ATF will work, you just have to change it more often. So...my question would be, and I'm not trying to be a smart ass...what is the benefit of spending less on the oil, but changing it more often?? I understand you can go to the local auto store and buy ATF all day long, where cycle gear lube is harder to find...but, c'mon...change it before you ride...not while you're riding....

Exactly...that's why you grind off around the outside of the spring for easier pull. Less diameter of wire, less resistance...easier pull...

Don't... That's a cheap, easy fix...we've all done!

I guess you could say there are two carb boots... The ones we are talking about are in front of the carb, between the small side of the carb and the engine... The other one seals the back of the carb to the air box. Although a leak there isn't good, it more than likely wouldn't cause the idle to raise up....

Once I catch up to you...I'll get out the podium and chalkboard... Take a nap till I get there....

Either way, you're removing the basket. Between the basket and the gear there are 6 rubber hockey puck looking cushions. I'd bet one or more is either severly worn...or shot/gone/finito alltogether... It might be time for a new basket, get a hold of Jeff @ FAST and get his. It's a Magnum I think, and it comes with new pucks. I replaced my fibers and steels, along with springs last year. Beat on 'em good...and I figured once I was sinking the $$ into my motor, it was inner/outer and basket time! Just a thought...good luck!!

OK....sorry for all the confusion.. I was talking to msrpouse about the 1000 bucks he spent on his quad, not yours... To answer your questions. The Piston, rings, cylinder, crank and crank bearings get their lube from the oil in the premix. Only the transmission and clutch get their lube from the gear lube, or tranny oil, or ATF...you get the point. The two compartments are separated...crankcase and tranny. I dont' know if you need a gallon of premix. I run Maxima Super M at 40:1, and buy a 64 ounce bottle for about 20 bucks. I THINK that gives me about 18 or 20 gallons of gas... ( I have two 6 gallon cans...so, not 100% sure... ) Does this help explain things better?

1st off, I edited posts because I typo'd or mispelled a word. I know, I'm showing more of my imperfections. Cars use spark plugs, boy that's a new one on me. You really should teach a class... I hope you enlightened those you're passing the laptop around too. Hopefully they have more sense than you... Posting worthless car info on a Banshee site. Not only are you a professional mechanic, you're a physicist, a pro banshee/small engine mechanic, and a professional writer... How do I compete with that? You're the man... You did read the part about myself never riding outside of MI, so...I've never had to jet for altitude, only temperature. If I were a pussy, I'd delete my whole posts and mistake. However, I've left it up...no questions asked. Anyways, go jet your banshee, physics and jet master...oh, that's right...you can't even do that...yet you judge me for a basic mistake. I'm confused...you've worked on other engines, but this is your first time seriously dealing with a two stroke?? What does that mean? Oh...I get it. That's where you learned all about spark plugs...cause other than changing plugs, it's obvious you haven't done shit else with them... After your sorry ass posts and explanations, I wouldn't expect to see any Advice by you...unless we all need a laugh, including the circle jerk you're passing the laptop around with... Get a clue...

Honestly, because I've done it both ways. I thought the same thing...told someone they were silly...they turned out to be right. While I don't have a scientific explanation, I do have a bill from the dealer for a few sets of springs... Cutting the springs does make it easier for the first bit of the pull...then it is just as hard, which...in turns, makes it seem harder because the first bit was so easy... Sand off around the outside of the springs.... I wish I would've used a fish scale or other measuring device to document it...

Word... Instead of playing guessing games, when I ordered my cub from Jeff, I got a new basket, Inner and Outer hub too... Why waste time putting all that money into the motor when it can't get to the ground?

Actually....the FAST clutch is only a few bucks more than an EBC or Barnett you could buy online... With all 6HD springs in mine, and after a year of beating on it...it didn't slip at all on the DYNO with 85 RWHP...so, that's good enough for me in my book... Before I built my cub, I used 3 HD and 3 stock springs, and it held up just fine...

Like Loco said...your first two stroke, and you can read plugs. I'm the rookie...you're the expert... You are the only one crying here...I'm not talking tough...I don't have to. Go back to your *****git car forums...maybe they will believe you know what the fuck you're talking about... In your great "basic physics" class you took, it sure didn't help you jet your basic modded banshee... Maybe you better think about what you posted here before you run your mouth joker.... I didn't realize you were a professional car builder, banshee know it all and a writer... Give it up...you're the only one you're impressing...

Take 'em off first...obviously. That's more difficult than acutally cleaning them. Now...golden advice. Only take one carb apart at a time. If you accidentally switch the carb slides or float bowls...you'll have a stroke once you put it back together. Bascially, a cylmers will walk you through dissasembly and reassembly. I use Brake Clean to spray everything down (only because it dries very fast) and use a clean, CLEAN rag to wipe everything down. It helps to clean the whole area around the carbs prior to removal, and I stuff rags in the holes going into the engine to prevent dirt from getting into the reeds and the motor (again, CLEAN rags)... Seriously, a clymers is your friend here...

Ya know...that's a damn good question. I'd have to say I doubt it. I'm sure your local dealer will have one, if not...you can find one on ebay for cheap...

An Air leak will always do it, once it's warmed up. Time to take the carbs apart, and give them a good cleaning. Could be dirt causing a slide not to close all the way, could be the floats not set correctly (although, floats don't cause a high idle)... First and foremost, pickup a clymers manual.. It is the banshee bible, and will walk you through everything from checking tire pressure, to a complete tear down and reassembly...