dajogejr

That's wrong advice for a plug chop. New plugs can take a while to color... Basically...warm the bike up with old plugs. Put new ones in. Do a WOT run (Wide Open Throttle) 1st through at least 5th gear. KIll the ignition, hold the throttle open...and coast back. Pull the plugs. Cut, hacksaw or grind off the threads, exposing the porcelin. There should be a light brown ring around the base of the exposed ceramic...about a 2mm ring. If it's light, it's lean...black or dark...it's rich. Looking at colored porcelin at the end of the tip, near the electrode, is not the best way...

Again...check your plug. Search for a plug chop, follow the instructions....

Yep...lower the jet number, the leaner it is...

Do a plug chop. Sputtering could be caused by a few things... If the plugs are dark...or rich...then, leaning it out would be logical. However, old plugs, dirty air filter, bad reeds, failing or faulty electronics...and others, could cause this.

I think you should spend 20 bucks in jets, get 250 to 270. Start with 260. Spend another 10 in plugs. Look at your plugs...they will tell you. 30 bucks in plugs/jets is alot cheaper than a fresh top end. No one can tell you with 100% certainty you'll be 100% safe. We're just basing it on our own experiences...and trying to give you a guideline. <Insert legal disclaimer here... >

Trinity has a mostly bad name here on the HQ.... I would venture to say more for their service than their products.... However, I've never used, installed or tuned anything Trinity...so, sorry, I wish I could comment first hand.

Depends on who you ask...that's a whole other topic/argument....

You will definately be safe...that's for sure. I think you'll find cleaner running a little leaner though... Always better to start off Rich....best of luck!!

That's pretty funny... Based on this post...I think you should go by what everyone is saying, rather than what the plugs say. Funny...you know how to read plugs, yet in this post you're asking for help since everyone else is running other jets. Well...plug master, if you had a clue, you'd know that PLUGS DON'T LIE....two bikes with identical mods next to each other could have totally different jetting... Again, plugs don't lie. Oh...I know...this is an old post, from November...in the last 6 months or so you've become the expert...my bad. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=52229&hl= Make sure you pass this post around in your laptop circle jerk...that'll really impress your buddies and your "Skill"... Give up ass clown...you're only making yourself look worse.

Are you leaving your airbox the way it is, stock filter with the lid on? If so...you'll be around 250 or so on the mains. Middle clip on the needles. FMF pipes like a fat pilot circuit. With the airbox and lid on...you could probably be ok with stock pilots, but you might have to bump up one size (to 27.5 ) with the pilots. If you end up running the air screw .25 to .5 turns out for it to run right off the idle, get bigger pilots.

I agree with limited... If you leave the airbox on...stock pilots are just fine. If you remove the airbox...you MIGHT have to up the pilots one size. Stock (middle) clip on the needles. If you have the $$...get the Toomey needles. They eliminiate the lean spot in the middle of the needle. Going from stock pipes to Toomeys is a great, great mod. I'd suggest in the future getting the timing plate and lightened flywheel as well. The smooth some of the hit of those pipes...and make it a little easier to ride and keep on the pipe. Good luck!

It should be added that unless you get your bike ported, you won't take full advantage of drag pipes. Should you go that route, ask your builder what pipe they prefer. Chances are a reputable builder will have their own opinion, and what works best with their setup. I don't think you're going to get a smooth on/off delivery with any of the drag pipes. Sure...some will "lessen" that a bit more than others...but, it's gonna hit...be a narrow powerband, and make a lot of power in that short spread. Unless you're committed to duning and drag racing...a drag pipe might not suit your needs....

Lee...I like the site. The font is a tad small...but, you can adjust that in your browser if need be. The banners at the top...I like the rotating ones. Is there anyway to shrink the jpeg size... While I don't have a blazing fast connection at work (Partial T1, 768 down, 768 up) it does take a bit to load the banner. On dial up...that might be a bit much to handle!! Other than that....it's looking good...keep up the good work!! Dave... **Other members. If you're using Internet Explorer, a quick way to increase/decrease font size is to hold down the Ctrl button, and scroll up or down with your mouse wheel to quickly increase/decrease font size. Otherwise, you can click on View, Font size...and adjust accordingly... Hope this helps.**

I would also check with Shearer... Matt Shearer will make you a custom set as well, and probably isn't as backed up as GRR is....

Hey...no prob. Didn't mean that personal...everyone knows a better rider can do better on a lesser bike... CPIs, Shearers, Rockets are all top end pipes. Your porting can tune the "light switch" a little...but, it's a non-powervalved two stroke, there's only so much you can do. Everyone here has their favorites, and everyone here will tell you one is better than the other.... Ford vs. GM vs. Dodge...you know that one. I would do a ton of reading, see who has similar mods...and get a general consensus of what will work best for you. I don't think anyone would argue though...any of the afore mentioned pipes will have little or no bottom end. They will, however, shreak and pull like a mofo from mid to top, just as a drag pipe should. They're all good names...I wish I had the money to try one after the other after the other... But then again, that would do you NO good, since no two bikes are the same!!

MY Buddy has the mids...I can't say I've ridden one with highs. I can tell you T5s will smoke PT mids...hands down...but they don't pull as long or as hard as the drag pipes aboved mentioned... If you're staying that close to cub bikes, either they can't ride, you can ride very well...or, it's got some decent porting... Not trying to put you or anyone down with that statement, but it really takes someone that knows what they're doing to get the stock cylinders to breath comparible to cubs... Out of the box...they're pretty damn good!

I would actually go to CP Industry's website, and contact whoever does their plating. Pretty sure it's millenium... http://www.cpindinc.com/

If your little bit of riding is wide open most of the time, then get CPIs, Shearers...or other drag pipes. If not...keep what you have, get some T5s or PT highs... VForce are always a good mod...but, respond much better to ported motors than stock. Unless you personally know the guy you bought it off of...I'd take no one word that it's ported. Actually....what have you done with the suspension? Fast motor is great...if you can't hang on or it can't get it to the ground, it doesn't do you any good!!

Possible...but I bet it bent or warped your flywheel... For less than 20 bucks, it's not a gamble I'd be willing to risk...

G'day...mate... I assume you're going to leave the airbox on, and the lid on with holes in it. You'll end up with 250 to 290 on your main jets...I'd start with 280 and work your way down... Keeping the air box...that should be pretty safe. Stock (middle clip) on the needle, and stock pilots will work just fine... Welcome aboard...we'll throw another shrimp on the barbie for ya....

Or you can buy one on ebay... http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?c...tool&category0=

Get the wiseco, and have it re-welded by someone who knows what they're doing.... There are several reputable builders here that more than capable. PM Jeff @ FAST racing (FASTOYS) for a price... When I built my cub, no one touched his price on any of the parts he sold me, (cub, crank, pistons, head, etc.)...

There is not pressure on them...they are just overflow hoses, in case of a tipsy or stuck float... There's two ways to look at it. You can spend a little more money, get clear fuel hose...and it'll last a while. You can spend less money, and replace it once it does get brittle/break. I bought about 3 or 4 feet for my leak down tester, obviously more than enough. Since the factory overflows have been on mine since 96...shee needed a fresh look... Really...it's no big deal at all...either way.

Word...cheap, big tube...enough to do dozens of grips. Also, I run two small wire loops on each grip. Nothing says ouch like grabbing a handful of throttle and a grip coming off at the same time...

Yep... Go out and buy 4 or 6 plugs...get that plug chop done.