dajogejr

Well...to be honest, it tested within spec off the bike. One side was 17Ohm...the other was 117, just as it should be!

Not saying a shee can't be a good trail machine...that thick ass foam seat sure is comfy. However, you have to put a few thousand dollars into it to make it comparable as a box stock new fourstroke... Sure, a piped shee will run down a stock 4 stroke...but, the jumps, berms and whoops between 'em will be 450 territory...

Boys and girls...quick question. I know how to Ohm out the stator...and I believe the specs are like 17 and 117...or something like that... However, my question is can you ohm it out off of the bike? Does it have to be grounded to the bike, behind the flywheel...or, since you're just measuring resistance...can it be unbolted? Thanks!! Daj...

True...find 3 shocks and pipes for 800 bucks (new...of course) and I'd be impressed. Sure they can be found used...but, after spending 6K on a new machine, I'd be damed if I bought used/second hand parts for it!!

True... The question is... Do you want to spend 1500 or so on suspension, pipes, etc., or just buy a four stroke and ride it. MAYBE a pipe and airfilter.... I honestly think once you spend money on suspension for a shee, pipe it, etc., you'll be well over the price of the fourstroke....

Easy Thumbnails is another easy to use program. However, Imageshack.com can shrink 'em for you....

Since you said mostly trails, go with the Raptor 700. Is there a reason you're not looking at the YFZ 450? While the raptor does have pretty good suspension, the 450 is better hands down. Banshees can be made to be good trail bikes. Stock form...they flat out are not.

More than likely NOT burning it up...too much, and it's seeping out. 4 oz per gallon is just fine. Here's a chart to help.... http://www.dansmc.com/2stroke_oil.htm

Really? So...this isn't an exact quote from your post: "My question is, am I running lean? The plugs look okay but from reading you guys posts people are reccomending alot larger main jets even with just the box top off. I tried making the bike richer but it just runs so horrible in the midrange. I hate to be just tuning off feel but isn't feel a pretty good indicator? I don't run too much in WOT so midrange drivability is my major concern ( I ride alot of trails)" You're just proving what a jack ass you are. Let me get this right. First real dealings with a two stroke, yet...you can read plugs. OK...NOT. The above proves that. Isn't feel a pretty good indicator? Well...maybe if you like how your boyfriend's asshole feels, cause between that and your mouth...they probably have the same amount of shit coming out of them. You're concerned about midrange drivability...since you don't ride WOT. Ok...that's the best one. Put the smallest main jet in you can find...so you save gas of course, you don't use WOT. Just tune in the low and mid. If those statements right there don't spell out what a complete idiot you are, I don't know what does. You're right...there is not point going back and forth. You obviously don't have a clue or know what you're talking about. I AM GAY. Good one...obviously by your tuning skills and the rest of the shit you're spewin...that is the best you can do. Is that all you have? That's pathetic.... At least come up with something original or thought inspiring...12 year olds talk like that on a playground... Of course...they probably have more knowledge about this shit than you too... Check back and add as you like, I'm here all day and I'm not going anywhere...based on the post count of how many people have viewed this thread...your stupidity entertains them too... DJ

Holy Christ.... Ok...tame down that oil. You don't even need to run that much oil with alky... Try 32:1 or 40:1...with a good name brand oil. Yamalube, Maxima, Klotz, etc. That's just twice as much oil as you should have...period. See how that works...should run better too. That much oil in your gas isn't passing through your jets very easily...

When you replaced the piston and rings, did you get the new piston and cylinder measured (mic'd) to make sure they're within spec'd clearances? New piston in an old/worn out bore won't be much good. Buy or borrow a good, name brand tester. A motorcycle style tester.... Get a Clymers manual while you're at it...they're priceless. OH, and what are you mixing your oil to gas at?

Yep...seems 270 to 290 is the sweet spot with the airbox, 320 to 340 without an air box...

I'm not a fan of the airbox...but, man...that looks suwheet!!!

+4 is fine. It normally doesn't require a jetting change. There is only one positive way to tell, check your plugs. When I put mine on last year...it did not require one.

Are you using the oil injection, or did you block that off so you could premix? Have you done a compression test lately? Are there a ton of hours on the engine? Could be too much oil, could be worn rings/pistons letting it blow by... warped/dirty/bad gasket surface... Pick your poison!!

Sorry...Lee. Maybe I was unclear. Other boards I use, when the topic updates it'll send you an email, just like here. However, there will be TWO links in the email. The first will take you right to the thread, the second link, within the actual email, will say something along the lines of "click here to unsubscribe"... Then, if you click there, it will take you to the site and automatically unsubscribe you to the particular thread. In other words, you wouldn't have to go to your controls...just click on the unsub link in the email. I'm aware of how to do unsubscribe in the method you described. If you'd like...PM me and I could send you a copy of the email I'd get from other boards...maybe it'd be eaiser to see yourself!! Dave

Unless you're pulling 70 +HP....3 and 3 should be enough....(if you've got 4 and 4...there's your problem... ) Not to sound like a jerk...if you have a trail port and your mods, you're probably not close to there... I got Jeff's kit from FAST last year. Beat the tar out of mine last year. When I ordered my Cub from Jeff this spring...asked him about replacing the clutch, too...and he said it should be fine. I did get a new basket, inner and outer...though. I have about 15 to 20 runs on the dyno with this motor, and the clutch doesn't slip at all. Nothing abuses a clutch like a brake dyno... If you don't have one already, get the EZ pull lever, perch and new cable. My buddies stocker 98 has the oe clutch in her...(just fried it...finally... ) and I put the EZ pull lever and new cable on from Magic. It literally is as easy as a brand new 125 MXer... It's almost scary how easy it is, and needless to say when we ride with buds, they pull his clutch lever and then sit back with disgust and jealousy.....quite funny actually. You do have the parking brake removed, etc, right?

What is he falsifying, for one...and you're debating big bore pipes, small bore pipes, for two. Are you not? It's not his business to know exactly what K&T charges for all that work...he was estimating. While personally...I think his starting price was a tad high. However...he fully said make offers or they'll go on ebay... All this worthless ranting about what pipes will work, this isn't the right place. Besides...the majority of builders DO sell cubs for 875, AND charge for porting on top of that. Because you got a good deal doesn't mean everyone will. He was honest about the hours, honest about the work, and I feel honest about what the average shop will charge for the parts and labor... I don't think it's in Big Red's best interest to go builder to builder to builder and see what they charge...do you? That's the buyers responsibility.... When I bought my cub, I called several builders. I always planned on buying from Jeff, but you have to price shop. In the end...I won twice...best price and his fantastic customer service. It's just like that guy with the almost new Rocket Pipe's for sale post. Personally...I think they're crap. That's MY OPINION, and I"m entitled to it. I actually demo'd a set from Ray....and wasn't impressed... That's not to say that guy can't get top dollar for them, and he is clearly entitled to that as well...

I don't think you "need' a lockup... Try a heavier clutch setup, thicker plates, and stiffer springs. How old is your clutch cable, could it be stretching too? Bluing plates means its heating up...heating up is caused by not enough friction. I'd try thicker steels and stiffer springs. With your mods, you don't need all 6HD springs. I'd bet 3 stock and 3HD would be fine.

Free Bump, Big Red... 2b... Once again you've pretty much shit on someone's for sale add... Big Red is honest about their use...provided pics, etc. While I'm not starting a war of words with you, it would be nice to keep your discussions where they belong, in the discussion forums and not the for sale forums... Not trying to be a dick...but what's right is right....C'mon now...

Hey...Lee. Is there anyway to add an "unsubscribe link" in the email we receive about new replies to topics we participate in? Other boards I use have that option. I think it'd be easier than scrolling through the dozens of subscriptions one may have...or more... Just a thought...

Just about any builder worth their tail is up to it in work right now... I'll give another vote for Jeff @ FAST. Helluva nice guy...and his prices are very hard to beat.

Did you actually do the mod yourself, or did you ship it to holyman to do it? IF he did it, check and see if he gaurentees his work....he's a stand up guy! If you did it...I'd see what he wants to look at yours before you buy a new one... Your call...

New RS flywheel is only 125....

I know this is a dumb question...but gotta ask. You are threading the puller in far enough, right? Once it's in as far as you can....put the pop bolt (the smaller one in the middle..) and hit that with an impact gun. One or two quick raps will pop it right off. If the threads are stripped that bad on the flywheel....you have two other options. Either will ruin the flywheel. Used a three jaw puller, or weld the new puller you have onto the flywheel.... As said, either will ruin it.