dajogejr

All you need to know: http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tu...j_34_39_jn.html

Or for half the price, a fuel pump...it'll flow enough for just about everything... Or...the old trick of removing one of the floats. That gives you that much more space for gas... Or...larger float bowls... Make sure your fuel lines are clear and unkinked, too...

You're an Okie...don't kid us...you don't wear shoes, so you're good to 20... :yelrotflmao:

Jetting shouldn't change...maybe a main size at most. You may, however, need to run either a mixture of pump/race gas or straight race gas. You'll need to get a compression reading to tell if you do or not. Normally...145 or more, a slight mixture of race/pump is a good idea... Generally, over 165PSI and you need race gas....

Neither did I... I'm buying a set of 35PWKs from BKabina, and we were talking on the phone about my cub setup when he mentioned them.. For 5 bucks a pop...what the hey...why not!! :beer:

You've got a serious problem with that motor if it runs right in top end with 420 mains. Either you ride in -80 degree temps, or you have an air leak the size of texas.... With no airbox and K&N or foam clamp on filters, I can't see you being above 340 or 350 on the mains...

I was thinking the same...300 ft elevation with 90 degree temps??? If it were drag pipes...maybe...but man that's huge!! However...no two bikes are alike. For Sanity's sake, I would get the motor leak down tested, air leaks are easier and cheaper to fix than a gernaded motor! Then...double check the float levels and clean out the passages. If you're still at 370 afterwards, I'd be surprised but NOT astonished!!

I need to offset my mind with a few beers.... Thanks...Gimme....wasn't thinking... I keep adding 2 plus 2 and getting 5, dammit. :yelrotflmao:

Actually....CC... If you call Cascade, they carry the square type plug ins for the V Force reeds. I'm actually ordering a set today, they're 5 bucks each...plus shipping. They said they normally use them for the 1 into 2 carb system, but...they'll sell 'em anyways...

Well...looks like I know what I'm doing at work tomorrow...

Well boys...just ordered mine from Jeff today...will have it mid next week. I know it has ground straps that go to the head. Any of you have drawing/dimensions for a bracket to mount it? I've read you can just measure it out and get a flat bar...bolt it to that, bolt the bar to the frame.. Anyone??

That's incorrect. A properly jetted 2stroke should never foul plugs, as long as you're using the correct heat range, a reasonable premix ratio and keep your air filter clean. A general rule of thumb is 1 main jet size for every 1000ft or so. I'd say you'd be safe on the main with 180...maybe even 170. You may have to bump the needle down one (the clip one spot towards the blunt end) Stock pilots are the smallest they make...that I know of (25) You should turn your air screws 1.5 turns out each from the lightly seated position, and see how it goes....

Aha...only been there twice...once last year, once this year. Both dead weekend. Put it this way...didn't even have to wait in line for a voucher...the station was closed. Plan on making quite a few trips this year!! However, if you ever ride at the Mounds (Mt. Morris) they do everything but get the rubber gloves out to check your ATV...

I would say Jeff @ FAST without hesitation...however, if you wanted to keep it closer to home, I've yet to read a bad think about K&T as well. Just a slight dune port and maybe some 33PWKs to help it breath a little. You have to balance number of paddles/HP of motor/length of swingarm. The perfect balance is one that launches hard, spins them a little, but doesn't rocket the front end up...

Cascade carries 2 one into two carb setups. If you look on their site, under Cubs, they have the 38 in standard and polished variety... Aww...hell, I'm bored at work, here ya go. Funny...I don't see it on their site now. I'm 100% positive it was there before, and for over 410cc cubs, they recommend a 38PWK...here's the little brother... http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...TORE_DEPT_ID=87

Actually...there are a few flavors. A stroker crank, a long rod crank AND a stroked longrod crank. The latter is the best. The crank journals themselves are 4mm offset. However, when you do that, it places more load on the stock length rod. A longer rod is then used to offset this added stress (the rod doesn't have to move as much, back and forth) I believe my 4 mil is a 4 mil crank, and 5mm longer rods. Keep in mind...with a longer stroke...the porting on the cylinders will have to be changed to compensate. Shouldn't say have to...it is Wise to have it changed so you'll have the correct port timings....

I have never seen them check sound at Silver Lake....only ORV, state park pass...and your flag's gotta "clank" the height bar as you enter... However....with a busy holiday weekend, they might be a little more restrictive...

My take on heat cycle is warm it up, blipping the throttle slightly...and letting it idle too, until my pipes AND head are very, very warm. I shut it down, have a smoke, drink a coldie, and do it again. I might go for a quick, quick rip...then park it and retorque. I agree...that whole heat temper thing is BS....

Actually...now that I think of it. I won from HQ a mod quad roller bearing and water pump cover... I used one of those, and one from the UPP. I did my cub and swingarm at the same time, so I just bolted the swingarm sliders onto my swinger before it ever was mounted up to the bike....

17 will be too much for the sand. It depends on if it's fluffy dry sand or wet sticky sand.... 14 and 15 would be nice to bring.... I think 16 or 17 would be too much unless you're on hardpack or ashphalt....

Sorry to hear...Sam. I'll keep an eye out over here on the East side of the state...hopefully some boys and girls on the west side can keep an eye out. Post this over on Planet Sand too...there are plenty of users on both boards that hit Silver Lake quite freequently... Again, sorry to hear bro. Hopefully you get it recovered.... Dave...

If he looped it out on the start and couldn't get it started again in time... My ex-roomie had an 03...with a pipe, that was it. It's not even right...period. I've had a 94 CR250 and two 97CR250s. I clearly see why the big boys are all going 4 stroke. What they lose in weight, they more than make up for in the grip the dirt, shit and get category.... With a good rider on the CRF...no way, unless you were in the dunes and had a 90HP shee...then, it would be interesting...and the CRF would still have more on top end.

Magic Racing in Utica, MI will have them. You may not be able to find it on their website...but if you call them, they'll fix you up. 586-254-9117... They have a toll free number too on their site...but, the local number works for me here in MI... That's where I went for my sparkys on my Toomey silencers... And the good thing is...you pay for snail ground shipping, and usually if you order by 6PM, you'll have it next day via UPS since you live in MI too...

Not neccesarily.... Sometimes porting actually like a smaller jet because is can pull just as much fuel/air as a non-ported motor, more efficiently.... Stock needles in the stock carbs have a known lean spot in the middle...and porting your motor may have exposed this more. Dynojet (toomey) needles AND Vito's needls are longer yet skinnier to prevent this lean spot. Needles are 3 times as much as any main or pilot jet. Magic used to have the Toomey Jet kit for 29.99 on clearance....no longer. I think last time I talked to Toomey, they wanted 17 bucks EACH for the needles...they didn't believe me when I told them I could get the kit from Magic for cheaper.... See if you can find some Dynojet needles or Vito's needles on ebay...if not, go direct to the manufacturer.... You MIGHT be able to tune this out with a combination of the following, pilot jet, air screw and moving the clip on the needle.... Good luck!!

That is exactly what I was going to say. There are two common types of reed inductions. Intake reeds (most common by far) and case reed. The latter won't have the big square or round block between the carb and the cylinder, rather it will be under the bottom of the cylinder. The case reed is terrible in MY OPINION for a few reasons, them being: The whole cylinder has be removed for any type of Reed Maintenance and replacement, and You only have one side of reeds that flow down into the crankcase. We all know V Force reeds put out power efficiently because of more survace area (4 per block instead of the traditional 2)...now, cut the traditional two in half. 1 reed surface on case reeds. My old 85 LT250R had this. Zuke' changed this in 87 I believe, until the last year the 2 fiddy was made. 85 and 86 are the same motor design... HATED IT... However, some 2 strokes don't have traditional reed cages, etc., as pointed out.... I would be surprised if Polaris took that route....but it's certainly not out of the question.