dajogejr

Doesn't sound like the reeds...especially since it runs fine in WOT in the lower gears... Do you have a picture of the plugs for the chop? Sounds like it's a tad rich on top... DId you check the obvious things, like fresh plugs, clean air filter, no loose or burned wires, etc?

Yep...size of the carb. I'd go 35...personally. Also...in addition to what Big Boy said...shave the flywheel too. Then...you'll have all the motor you'd need. Next...sink all your $$ into suspension. Shocks to start...then A Arms, etc. If you have the money...get the a arms and shocks at the same time...

Should've put a 450 is his claws/mouth...

Jeff...leave those sheep alone and get the site built already...will ya? Hell...If I started shop at 10AM I'd have all kinds of time to get this done... Seriously...I'm tired of bothering you on the phone for parts...and I have a few riding buds that would love to order parts off a website from ya... (See...the website won't upsell you, or suggest more parts...or are you working on that too? Probably what's taking so long... ) Actually...his web designer keeps getting a virus on his etch-a-sketch....so, it takes time... Can't wait to see it!! Dave

Hey all...looking for some pricing and availability or a bud's 97 shee. As the title says...need right side upper and lower control arms w/ good ball joints in 'em. Whatcha got and how much? Thanks!! :beer:

Shit...I challenge you to a stick figure competetion Joe...best man wins a boost bottle.. J/K.... That's one thing I wish I had...ok, make that two things, I wish I could play a guitar...too!! Free bump...

Do a search....pipes are covered here about 1 million times... Personally, on a stock shee I'd go with T6. However...the real question is...how long do you plan on keeping in stock? A ported motor with an opened up airbox will really take more advantage of the Shearer or CPIs... Those suckers like to BREATHE!!! If you plan on keeping it stock motor and just want more around...usable power, I'd say Toomeys.

How do you know it's .030? Are you taking their word for it, or measuring it yourself. I agree...ditch the cheap compression tester. Also, make sure you get a tester with threads as long as the spark plugs you're going to put in it...or it won't be accurate. You'll get a lower reading...(you're not filling up all the head volume a spark plug would). Have you ohm'd the stator and coil? Jim is a helluva guy, regardless if you bought it off him directly or not, I'm sure he'd be happy to help you either way as well. No...by the way, no crossover tube for 35PWKs. That is part of the choke or "enrichment" circuit on the stock carbs. Since PWKs each have a choke knob, it's not needed.

Pretty simple, actually. If you mix them 50/50...it's the difference of the two numbers, subtracted from the higher or added to the lower. 50/50 of 91 and 110 octane would be roughly 100.5...100, or 101...depending on how stingy or generous they were with the octane ratings...

Yep...exactly. The stock needles to have a lean spot in the middle...hence the longer more tapered needles...they do richen it up. Toomey uses Dynojet needles...and Vito's needles are similar.

Top and bottom of the cylinders needed to be decked a little to make them flat. Now I have to run a slightly thicker base gasket to accomodate this for port timing, compression and squish angle.... I think my guy put a .035 gasket on there...normally you run a .015 or .020...I think....

Yep... Like I said...Ricky Stator said he could test the WHOLE ignition. I OHM'd my stator, it was spot on perfect. Using a Snap on meter...not some 5 dollar cheapie... So...if mine doesn't run right after all this, I'm replacing the CDI first...then the Stator...

I put my head on three times...sealed the studs up, sealed the Orings. Once it still leaked after that...I knew I had bigger problems....which, I did.

He's got a Cub motor... There are 4 holes in the bottom that are not used, and there are 4 threaded inserts that should've came with your motor, along with 2 stud extenders.... The rubber plugs on the stock cylinder... That shouldn't be the problem... It's gotta be the head, the deck surface or an Oring. I put a thin, thin coat of Orange RTV on all Orings when I put mine back together, partially to help seal, partially to help hold them in place... And...if you take them off...hell yes replace the base gasket. Make sure you get the big bore cub gasket...or you'll end up cutting a bit of a standard one...

Stock pipes, stock airbox and stock lid...without the snorkel and JUST a filter...270 will probably be too rich as well, but it will be more than safe. Honestly...so you know, jet kits are normally a waste of time...they advertise Stage this, Stage that... You could've went to the local dealer and got a few jets for 3 or 4 bucks a piece... You'll probably need about 230 mains or 240s. 270 or 280 would be what you run with the K&N and a set of aftermarket pipes... I just did the math...540 Meters is about 1700 feet...even less jet needed.

dashee is right on. However...keep in mind if you take off the air lid, you need the adapter that will hold the filter to the front of the airbox. The lid acutally helps seal the filter. It's called a proFlow adapter...I THINK they're around 30 or 40 bucks...not 100% sure though. You HAVE to have this if you remove the lid... Or...you could just cut a few holes in the lid. LId off...300 and work your way down. Lid on, 280 and work your way down. stock pilots will be fine. This is for sea level to 1000ft...by the way...you didn't mention your elevation or temps...

CD...there's been a few threads lately about the top of the Cub Surface being uneven... You can do it yourself...but, of course you have to take 'em off. PUll the studs, find a nice, flat bench or large piece of metal stock. Take some medium grit sandpaper, lay it flat. Move the cylinders (top side down) back and forth across the sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. Do this for about 10 or 20 seconds...see if you have any high or low spots...

I"m in a similar boat as well. I can get an SRP rev box cheaper than a stock CDI... Tested my stator, ok...bought a brand new Nology Coil... Got a feeling it's going to be a CDI...but, I was going to buy the stuff anywho...oh well.

Not sure if this will help...but, I believe this is the break down in years of CDIs. 87 to 94 = same 95 to 96 = same 97 to 04 = same... 05 and 06 I'm not sure... Of course, I have to have a 96... Someone jump on in if I'm off on that...

I'd get a NOSS head. Dave Noss is the owner of Noss machine products, and supports this website and it's patrons. Plus, he gives a discount to HQ members. Rather than give you borderline advice...you should talk to him directly. He may chime in on this thread...or, you could PM him at dlnoss. He can probably better tell you what domes to get and the safety factor... Dave's a helluva guy who goes out of his way to take care of people...you won't be dissapointed in him, his customer service or his product, it's a win win all around....

Not that I know of... however...Ricky Stator says they can test all ignition components...give 'em a call...

Ok...first things first. The black box with spark plugs coming out of it (under the gas tank) is the Coil, NOT CDI. The black box under the seat is the CDI. A bad CDI could make it not run, could make it run like shit...and it could even make it run like shit Intermittently.... Sorry if that's not much help...but, it is the truth...

This was on Stock carbs and T5s...just added 35PWKs...should be fun...

There is no way we can tell you that for sure. Your compression is at the borderline for needing full race gas. Add timing to that...and you surely do. However...compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing bump. Tough call...do you have a good enough ear to listen for detonation? If so...you "could" try 50/50...however, you've been warned. To be safe, I'd run full race. You could buy a stock head, as said...to ease your concerns...but you'd be losing a little bottom end if you switch. A stock head is cheaper than a rebuild, that's for sure...as is race gas for that matter... Personally, I'd play it safe...up to you... :beer:

Yeah...but at this point, JT...it's peanuts compared to all the other $$ I've spent... Actually only need one, but...if you're gonna do it, do it right...and I'll have a used spare!!