dajogejr

YIKES....you're running about 75:1 mix...way too little. 32:1 or 40:1 is better...I get nervous around 50:1... If it is smoking that bad...you may need rings, or...you might have a bunch of oil built up in the silencer packing.... I agree with above about the carb settings...however, a compression test right now would probably be a good idea...

There are two different cables for the stock carbs...one if it still has the TORS, one without.... Just make sure you get the right one...

Do a search for break in here... I agree with Chris on the mixing it how you're gonna run it, the most common premix ratios are 32:1 and 40:1. However...I've always used the type of oil I plan on running...no special "break in" oil needed. Some will say take it easy for a tank of gas. I would tell you to heat cycle it twice (warmed up idling, blipping the throttle occasionally, and letting it cool all the way down)...then go ride it like you stole it... Personally, and this is MY opinion...just as we're all entitled to, I don't believe synthetics are too slippery to allow break in.... Again...do a search and come up with your own conclusion though. When you do assemble it, PLEASE do not coat the shit out of the cylinder and crank bearings with two stroke oil. A light, light coat on the cylinders and a squirt or two on the rod bearings and you're good to go.

Buy a better quality gauge, too...if possible. El Cheapo gagues can really be way, way off.....

Your air screw has nothing to do with WOT throttle, period. It only takes effect from idle to about 1/8 throttle... Your needle and main account for that. Did you check the plug caps? Try this...next time you feel it gonna bog, pull the choke 1/2 way out. If it gets better...it's fuel. If it still does it...it's probably electrical. Have you tried new spark plugs. What gas/oil are you running, and at what ratio?

I'll second that... Me and a bud stayed twice at sands....and it is a family "quiet" type place... However, the resort has a pool and hot tub, and about 12 of us guys sat out in the parking lot after riding all day...BBQ, beers...was a great time.... I think we got a holiday rate about a month and a half ago... like 105 out the door for two nights...

Porting. It's the most expensive for a good reason.

I'd bet he has FMF Drag pipes...c'mon now... Anything with stock carbs (With the TORS still on...or, he didn't install the idle kit) and FMF pipes deserves a swingarm like that... :yankyank: Anyone happen to notice he's got dune front tires on, and he put a street bike set of K&N's on.. and .030 over is 355cc...dickback... I think I'm going to ask his track times and if he's had it dyno'ed....

First off, do you alredy have a good set of paddle tires? Since you have pipes already...porting, Noss machine head and bigger carbs...you could buy smaller than stock domes, if you are willing to run race fuel... You can build a fast, reliable and respectable shee for that much. You're not going to have a 90 to 100 HP monster, but...you will probably end up with 60 HP or so, which...is damn fun to ride and it'll zip you around...

Whooaa...slow down there... VForce 3's give a slightly noticeable jump with a non-ported motor. They really shine on a ported motor. Porting bascially changes how the gas/air gets in your engine...and get's out. It does both more effeciently. Your builder will hopefully ask you the right questions about how you want the power delivered...all top, more mid and top...more low and mid...or a combo of any of those... That will tell them how to port your cylinders. You shouldn't have to rejet for the cool head. You will more than likely have to rejet for the porting... At the top of this forum is a Jetting FAQ...it is fantastic reading for you.. However...that being said, that article is a baseline only... No two machines are the same...period. Plenty of people get thier stuff ported and keep the stock carbs, plenty more buy big aftermarket carbs.... Most will tell you, for dune and drag racing bigger carbs are a good idea...since you're spending the majority of the time 1/2 to WOT throttle...bigger carbs flow more and make more power. That being said...in my opinion, and that is MY opinion, bigger carbs are not a great idea UNTIL you get porting... In other words, bigger carbs are great...but, they shouldn't be one of the first mods...they are icing on the cake...where porting is the batter... Hope that helps.

Thanks for the correction, BigBoy... My fellow four stroke riding buddies had it backwards...

I don't think you can port the cages on the VForce 3. Really...port the stockers or buy VF3s. If you can port the VF3s...I've yet to hear or read about it... 200 bucks for brand new, in the box shipped is a good price. I saw them for 189.99 a while back, plus shipping...cheapest I've seen. They're 219.00 plus shipping from Magic... Again, if they are new and in the box... Generally...people buy reed spacers when they get larger carbs to clear the clutch arm below... You should be fine without 'em... I don't think you can port the cages on the VForce 3. Really...port the stockers or buy VF3s. If you can port the VF3s...I've yet to hear or read about it... 200 bucks for brand new, in the box shipped is a good price. I saw them for 189.99 a while back, plus shipping...cheapest I've seen. They're 219.00 plus shipping from Magic... Again, if they are new and in the box... Generally...people buy reed spacers when they get larger carbs to clear the clutch arm below... You should be fine without 'em...

You can do the flywheel and timing plate for around a hundo bucks...+ or - depending on shipping. I think the Noss head with domes and the HQ discount is around 250...but, don't quote me on that, ask or PM DLNOSS... V Force 3's are about 220 new...I think.... I forgot what I just paid for mine at Magic Racing.... Always do what you can afford...but don't short yourself...

I'd personally like to see that banshee behind it with an R1 or R6 motor in it run...

4th clip from the blunt end with stock reeds/reed cages. If you switch out to aftermarket reed cages, you MAY have to lean out the needle one notch (3rd clip from top)... Of course...your mileage may vary...

I'd ask Rick Cairo...he could probably get you close... For my 4 mil cub (which...either has electrical problems or an air leak somewhere) it's been recommended to me 160 mains, 50 pilots, CEL needle in the middle clip and 2.0 turns out on the air screw.... It would help if you posted your elevation and temps you ride in... :wink:

Point well written and taken... You can count me in that club, too. When I initially put my cub together, I had the stock lightened flywheel....and the magnets inside were broken up. Fun that was...sine then, I've got a new RS flywheel... For the price, I think he'll see a good performance gain from having it shaved and a +4 plate. He's going to pay more than double that for the VForce... VForce aren't a matter of if...only when...

Your impeller is shot, period. That is not even a question. Since you need to replace it, replace that seal too to be safe. You could've swallowed some water through a vent hose...thought the filler hole...or from a possibly bad W/P Seal... You could've even got water in there from a pressurized quarter car wash. My advice, replace the pump and seal, drain the tranny oil and put fresh stuff in, and keep an eye on it.

Agreed... Might have to go one or two up on the main...but as said, normally compression and/or timing advance don't warrant a jetting change... Dave Noss will set you straight on compression, elevation, dome size and octane needs...plus, he gives a discount to HQ members, don't forget to mention that to him when ordering...

I emailed him via Ebay, and he literally emailed me back in about 20 minutes. Said he's out of a few jets...but he's happy to help with the ones I need. With my setup, I'd like to just have a complete kit like you got... More concerned with mains than pilots.... Once I get my motor/electrical sorted, I'll definately be looking to him for a kit...

That is damn good information pipebomb...I just got a set of 35PWKs myself, and paid 4.00 a pop for a couple mains and a couple of pilots. Thank you very, very much!!! :beer: Here's a link to his store...no jet kit, but I'll keep an eye out for it.. http://stores.ebay.com/Steves-Performance-...genameZL2QQtZkm

First, what's your temps and elevation? Second...brand new, as in just got it recently new...or, bought it brand new a few years ago...? 200 is stock, your dealer may or may not put in 210's depending on your locale...

Cub you have vs. the stock cylinder motor he has...there is a big difference... When I had almost the same motor/setup he did, the flywheel and timing advance were very, very noticeable...

Um...got it... Is it possible your clutch is slipping? Try taking off in second...see if it kinda lurches, etc... An air filter and snorkel removal will hardly be noticeable at all...and will only require 2 to 3 main sizes AT most, taking into consideration it was jetted correctly before...

Good to know!! Those that I have read/heard about failing did not have a lockup...so, that was probably the missing link!!