dajogejr

You need to have the screws...you need to have slack in the cables for when you rotate the bars, etc. If you have slack, then the slides are fully closed. When they are fully closed, the bike won't idle. You can get buy for just a bit without the idle screws...this is not a long term fix... Any time you take the carb caps off...I double check the sync. Whose to say you tightened them down the same as they were before, and that can throw it off...because of how fine the threads are on these stockers...it's very easy to do. Also...make sure the springs are resting on the metal on the inside of the caps, not caught up in the rubber Oring seals... Since you already have the carb caps...all you need are the brass idle screws, drill and tap. I think this kit can be had for 30 bucks...it's not worth playing with. If you can find the screws...I have two sets of drill/taps i'd be happy to send you for a few bucks to cover shipping.

That's flat out highway robbery... An NGK BR8ES shouldn't be more than 2.50 each from a dealer... Search in the for sale section, a member here was selling a box of 10 I believe for cheap, like 1.60 a plug or so.... I doubt WalMart will have the plugs, but if you have AutoZone or Murray's auto centers near you, I know they will...less than 2 bucks a pop. Pep Boys also carries them.

Yeah...I have nothing to bad to say performance wise on the CPIs...but I can imagine trying to change your spark plugs could be a chore. Odaen has a pic of some nice Chrome Shearers on his shee in his sig...very clean. You could always just head over to Matt Shearers site and look at some of his pipes: http://www.shearerpipes.com/custom.htm

Big Red...can you imagine trying to kick that biyatch at sea level... At about 180 in mine it's a pretty stout kick...

I buy 4 to 6 plugs at a time at Murray's auto center. At 1.79 a plug, I don't waste time trying to clean 'em...and with the issues you've been having, I wouldn't try to save 'em either. Yeah...I got the oil in the gas thing cause most of my buddies are 450 riders... If there's one thing us banshee owner's have in common...it's our ego...

You're better off sanding the edges around the spring, rather than cut it... It's more the thickness of the coil in the spring, than the length of it overall. I put a 400EX throttle on mine, no difference...granted, the one I got was beat up and worn out (the plastic bushings) I just bought and SRP thumb throttle from Magic. Longer lever, looks sick...and you can adjust the throttle stops!

Just what I was thinking, Milo... YOu might get lucky. Put up an ad in the wanted section.... I'd bet somone has a stock angle cut basket gear they'll get rid of, if they replaced it with a straight cut gear set. Many drag racers and hard core duners replace the stock crank/flywheel gear with those that are straight cut for more strength... Hinson probably does make the best one. I think mine is a Magnum I got from Jeff @ FAST racing, and I think it cost me 150...

I honestly really couldn't tell you. Since you have to pay for the gear anywho...you might as well get a new basket too. I've never heard of or read of anyone reusing the stock basket...

Try fattening up your main two sizes.... To be honest, I just got my 35PWKs on...so, I'm not sure of their float measurement. Since they're probably about the most common carb on shees...or close to it, someone will chime in on how to set 'em. My best GUESS is flip 'em upside down, and make sure the bottom of the floats are level...

Don't take this the wrong way...but, if you bought a stock basket over a stronger and lighter aftermarket one (which...I'm sure is cheaper than OEM, too...) You'd need to have your head examined.

Same here...less than 20 minutes from the Windsor/Detroit border...more and more packed everyday. You don't have to register anything here in MI, just an ORV...DNR just wants their money to ride on their trail systems or ORV parks. A couple of my buddies have new(er) 450s and didn't get a registration, just a title... I guess it depends on your locale and riding regulations!

Yep...bill of sale, clean title and an ORV (which...anyone with a drivers license or state issued ID here can purchase at any hunt/fish shop, Meijers, etc.) I don't think they give out registrations anymore in MI, but...you will get a Title...

I understand your thinking...Garg...but, there might be a loophole. Since these are designed for closed circuit off road racing, not the streets...you might be able to get away with it. Why can someone buy a new CR, KX, RM or YZ 2 stroke...and ride dunes, trails, etc? They won't be phazing them out real soon....

Ditto here...smells like....Ice mountain. You forgot to mention, though....that while they were trying to get 50 Cent for the prez...he got shot 9 more times, and no longer has to limp...aiigghht....

Unfortuneately...I bet they jack up the prices in CA since they know US boys and girls will be heading over to get them...

WORD... Good to see you around some more, Big Red... I ground off the rivets on the basket side (wasn't reusing it anywho...) and used my air hammer to push the rivets out. Worked quite nicely...

More than likely it's caused by one cylinder getting more/less fuel than the other one. YES, you have to USE the idle screw kits for idle...period.

Get the leak fixed first...it's possible your carbs are running out of fuel for extended top end. Is it right off the bat (1st, 2nd gear) that it cuts out on top...or 3-6? Are you floats set right, keeping enough fuel in the bowls? Since you mentioned all that sand in the tank...did you clean your carbs before or after you cleaned out the tank? Did you use NEW gaskets for your intakes...and make sure they're not leaking air?

Stock CC is 22...so you probably won't notice a perfomance gain, unless it means it's runnign a bit better cause it'll run a bit cooler... 21cc you'll notice a slight bump in compression and little performance gain... Depending on your elevation and compression, you may need to run a mix of race and pump gas or straight race gas if you go smaller than 21cc... And/Or if you start bumping your timing....

Aha....the old dirt in the gas tank... Glad you got it sorted... Did you get a single or dual outlet Pingel valve?

Whooaa...I just re-read your post. If it sat...hell yes clean out the pilot jets. Those holes are so tiny...any little dirt can throw them off. Also...Jeff @ FAST Sells a carb sync tool. It is awesome. I'm pretty good at eyeballing and sync'ing the carbs. This thing gets them purrfect. My stock motor had 110PSI...before I built my cub. Didn't start real easy...usually a few kicks instead of 1 or 2...but, it ran great. Comp just sounds a bit low to me... Chase...his pistons are only 1mm bigger than stock, so...it's not THAT drastic of a change. You on the other hand with your motor, are way off the mark stock... The low readings, in my opinion...coupled with smoking a lot and a very lean fuel/oil mix...hmmm... I'd dissassemble the carbs down to nothing. CLEAN EVERYTHING out, I even take a single strand of speaker wire to clean out pilots. Check your float height too, make sure it's not too high and flooding it with too much gas off idle... By the way...is that Maxima Castor 927, or Castrol two stroke oil? Spelling's got me off a little....

With 17cc domes...unless you're way up there in elevation...that's low. I know it's ported...which can drop it some...but, near sea level with 17cc domes you should be around 180ish with a bigger bore. Probably 190ish with stock bore... Keep in mind, you have bigger pistons...so, it could be a little lower. But...not that low! This is right from Noss' site... Approximate Cranking Compression These pressures are estimates based on fresh stock bore, piston, porting, and deck height. It is recommended to check your compression after installation. Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121 stock 130 125 118 112 106 100 I don't know the size of your pistons... But in my cub, with I believe a 19 or 20cc head, 68mm bore and 4 mil long rod stroke...I get 179PSI cold in both...our motors aren't that drastically different...

you been watching me too...Ell? I agree...the "under the influence 24/7" has turned around quite nicely...to a respectable and nice guy... Props to you...Chase. I'm gonna get a paid subscription one of these days too. Met some great people... I wouldn't know Jeff at Fast from Joe at Burger King if it weren't for these forums... A lot of good people here, very helpful...great insight. Also...good entertainment! :beer:

I doubt you'll be able to handle them...unless they can't ride. Damn near the same HP out of the box...( I think they have mid- to high 30's) and less than half the weight...

20 might be pushing it...21 should be safe. The only way to know for sure is to check compression when done. anything more than 150ish could require a mix, more than 165 is all race gas. Now...this is sea level readings....higher altitudes can get away with smaller domes and pump gas. Better safe than sorry here...