dajogejr

Actually...Magic Racing has the best price. For 159.99, you get the pistons, wrist pins, circlips, BEARINGS and gasket kit, and I know they offer good shipping services. If you go to RMATV...and price all that out, it's a few bucks more once you add in the gaskets and wrist pins....actually, with 2 piston kits, bearings and the top end gasket kit it's 179.99 I'm sure for about 20 bucks, you can get overnight shipping from Magic... And you can get the cool head O Rings (same as used by Dave Noss' head)...

You and me both.... I just got my 35PWKs about 2 weeks ago, but I can jet the shit out of stock carbs... It's the numbering scheme that throws me off, I like Mikuni's numbering scheme better...by 10s on the main, 2.5 on the pilot... The tonz of different needles screws me up too...but, after all this research, most agreed CEL needles are my ticket. However, I've scoured this site and PS, looking for those with similar setups, similar temps, elevation, locale...etc., and asked advice from several members whom experience and opinions I trust. And...whaddaya know...they were all within 1 jet size of each other's recommendation for me. Like you said, you want to be close...I think you've got some pretty good starters...

While that would be free...it'd be going backwards in my opinion... I'd keep your pipes, look into getting a play port or mild port job, and leave those carbs on... If you were going to go all out...drag port, stroker motor...then yes, ditch the pipes...and get monster carbs.... Stock carbs, believe it or not...are pretty efficient for what they are. But once you go bigger...no need to go back.

Run whatever premix you are going to run, period... I'm not abeliever of that premix it really rich (16:1 or 20:1) for the first tank...or don't use synthetics line. I've used the same oil at the same ratio for break in on every top end I've done...and I break mine in by 2 heat cycles and beating the snot out of them.

Non-Oring or X Ring chains are better for drag racing...and that's pretty much due to less weight. Although i haven't put much time on my new one...my old one got the piss beat out of it last year, and I gave it to my buddy that bought a bone stock 98...and the stocker was kinked as hell. His 280 lb ass on it...a couple of trips...and it still has barely stretched at all, not even to the point of where I'd adjust it. If you want the best, period...look at Sidewinder. The tensile strength of their chain is almost double the next best. However...you sure as shit pay for it... If I had a ton of loot, that's what I'd have no questions asked!

Dunno...BigRed. I've been told by several builders that dousing the piss out of the cylinders makes it harder for the rings to seat and break in. 2 stroke oil burns ok when heavily diluted with gas...on it's own take quite a bit longer...if you think about it...it's primary function is to keep the shit lubed...not burn off!! Just my .02... I guess it's just like break in procedure...each has their own way... :beer:

Hot soapy water...and pull a white glove inspection when you're done. Using a white towel or rag, you shouldn't see ANY dirt or oil from the cylinders on the rag. Carb cleaner has a bit of oil in it...which, can make metal shavings or dirt stick to the cylinders... Once it is clean...use a THIN coat of two stroke oil on the cylinder walls. DO NOT coat the shit out of them. Spray a few drops on the rod bearings, and a little on the wrist pin and bearing as well. That's all you need...

I had a gold DID X Ring last year...before my cub motor. Only one day trip to Silver Lake...had no problems. My RK on my cub never got to run the sand...build problems... :wink:

I would actually leave an extra link in or so...in case you decided to go bigger up front for any reason...

I just looked on my bill...Jeff sent me one for my 6inch over...but it doesn't tell how many links. Gold X Ring chain for 81 bucks... And I had to cut off about 8 or 9 links. Like he said, easier and stronger to take 'em off than add 'em back on.

There are a ton of threads here...and a ton of threads on Toomey T5 vs. T6 pipes as well. Just use the search button...

FASTOYS is his screen name. Jeff Wendorff is his name, might have butchered the spelling on his last name a bit. When I call...I just call him hill billy... Sometimes...I call and tell him I need a Nitrous kit for my weedeater...I told him he drag ported it for me already, but I need more power...

Not sure on the turn around...but, I think in the off season I'm going to have him drag port mine. I've seen badassbanshee479's run at Silver Lake last year, Shearers and 39PWK...and to say it was impressive would be an understatment... And he's done more since. On a +8...he still couldn't keep the front end down...it was sick. And neither he nor I are spring chickens...we're both probably pushing mid 200's on rider weight. Yep...Jeff's never been short with me, quite the contrary. A few times I'd be like "Ok...Jeff...Gotta run. I know you got better things to do than BS with me, I know you're busy"... Then...out comes another story. Funny as hell I tell ya. It took me an hour on the phone to order my cub motor from him. He went from flywheel to clutch, spark plug to drain plug to make sure I had what I need. He is always my first call for everything...even if I have to pay 10% extra to get parts from him, (Which, most of the time he's as cheap or cheaper than others...) He's earned my business, trust and respect 10 fold.

I normally call him once a week, or every other week. I could just talk to that cat for an hour...he flat out kills me. I've had nothing but problems with my cub motor, and he's been there to talk to every step of the way for help or advice. (None of the problems are his fault, BTW...he just sent the parts, welded up the crank and cleaned up the cylinders...) Shit...a month or so back he was holding up UPS around their deadline to overnight me carbs, intakes, air filters, etc. to the dunes I was at (Silver Lake)...on a FRIDAY... He has been having back problems though.... I almost wished I sent him my stock cylinders and had him drag port 'em, instead of all this money invested in my cub...

Your two posts are within 6 hours of each other...what...do you think someone was just sitting there with nothing better to do than click on and answer your post... Geez...give it a little time will ya? :baseball_shocked:

I like your answer much better...gonna have to edit mine... :beer:

Check all your wiring... I'm assuming your jetting was fine before the rebuild, the carbs are clean, etc. Do you still have the TORS on? Are you getting enough fuel to the carbs? (Pinched line, dirt in the tank/filters, etc.) No burned/cut/melted wires in your wiring harness...from the tail light to the head light. Double check to make sure you put the flywheel back on properly... A mis-timed spark or lack thereof can cause this. Also...did you set the air gap for your flywheel to pickup properly?

You just learned a quick lesson why after new pipes and air filters, porting is the best mod...and why it costs a bit. After pipes, it makes ALL the difference in the world. As for the T6 vs. T5 debate, I don't buy it. I know on Toomey's site it says t5 for ported motors, and T6 for stock...but his jet kit also comes with 270 and 280 mains with pipes, no airbox/clamp on filters. I can tell you first hand that jetting from Toomey themselves is lean unless your at higher than about 3000ft of elevation. So...the common saying around here is T5s for porting, T6 for stock...but I've yet to see a dyno chart say different. Quite the contrary...I've read a few posts with people running T6 on ported motors and they run quite well.... That being said, I have T5s because I found them used and cheaper...flat out. I'd love to dyno a set of T6's to compare to T5s on my cub...anyone wanna send me a set?? :beer: :beer:

Chase...if you can't get triple digits out of a 10 mil easily...they are doing something wrong...seriously. You can get that pretty easily out of a 4 mil cub, drag port, 39PWKs and Shearers on Alky...possibly on gas with the right port work. If you went alky with the right porting on that 10 mil...you should be closer to 125HP or so...again, depending on the porting. Good luck buddy!! Post up some dyno's when done! As for the original poster...what the fellows above said is true. You're paying for knowledge and time..basically. And you get what you pay for, period. You can buy a port job off Ebay for a hundred bucks or so...but it should pale in comparison with a well known builder's 600 dollar jobie... **Edit** See note below

If you plan on running on the street, you need to first figure out the distance. Then, adjust your gearing, tires, suspension accordingly. You can get a 1980 3 wheeler to wheelie like hell off the line if you rev it up enough and jam it into gear... Just practice your clutch work when launching...There will be little or no slipping on the pavement...so you want just enough power getting to the rear wheels to get traction, launch hard and not land on your keister... Welcome to the HQ...

carbparts.com Call 'em up, I'm sure they can overnight as well.

Whaddya think, Rocket? 150 mains and 45 pilots get him close enough to get started?

What is your compression? With 19cc domes and 5000 ft, I'd GUESS you'd be safe on pump or 50/50 mix...but you need to measure the compression first. BigRedX has a similar package as yours (think he has a stroker motor) and he's at 7500 feet. Might wait for him to chime in and help...

How are YOU hearing 28mm on YOUR dune port? The original poster said woods port, differs from your dune port...and 33s or 35s will do YOU just fine. r/atv, I'm going to have to disagree... The T5's are great mid-top pipes...but not great down low... However, lightened flywheel AND timing advance really wake them up. I wouldn't suggest a lightened flywheel for a woods or trail port...

Can't go wrong with motion pro cables...