dajogejr

Normally..I'd agree...but, he's having to push the throttle to get the slides to come back down. I think it's a cable/hardware issue...

Interesting you should say that.... Do you have the hot wires too from Nology, or just the coil. I just got mine on...and asked Jeff that same question...I read it somewhere as well that you shouldn't run resistor plugs...but it was with their Hotwires...not the coil... I'm going to pick up some B8EGVs this weekend...

And make sure you use a non-gummy type oil for it. 3 in 1, WD 40, liquid wrench all work fine for lubing cables. Don't use gear oil, motor oil, air filter oil, etc....They make cable lubers, or...you could just get a piece of paper, make a small funnel and take it slow and easy...till it comes out the other end of the cable...

Per chance...any specific reason you're running B8ES instead of the BR series? Just curious...

That's the cheapest I've found them...by a few bucks. If I have to pull my head off again, Dave...I'll be on the phone with you real quick!!

IN another post...he just got a brand new Trinity to into one kit...that's why I didn't mention that too... Not out of the question, though...

However...I do use the same 110 leaded race gas for my shee in my weedeater and lawnmower... Race gas premixed...ahhh... I love the smell of premix in the morning...

I'd bring a compresion tester... My buddies looked at three banshees (before he bought a 400EX) and they all had less than 100PSI, and the owners all swore the top ends were recently rebuilt... Yet when they were cold...they'd kick 'em 10 times to get 'em to start. Look at the frame for cracks, any obvious bends, dings... Oil leaks as said... And...look at the oil on the dipstick and air filters. That sounds stupid...but, people who generally take care of their shit and do maintenance clean the filter regularly and change the oil. Take a peak at the plugs...and take it for a good ride if possible, shifting through all gears...even if you have to lug it... Unless you are very short...those handlebars are LOW as shit...

When your grandpa puts an Evinrude or a Johnson outboard in my banshee frame...I'll look you up to buy his bulk oil... Would it do in an absolute pinch? Probably...would I rather sit and watch my buddies ride and have a cold one instead of put that crap in my shee? Most definately.... If that were the case...every prosports power shop or motorsports facility would carry that for their quads/dirt bikes requiring premix... Just buy some two stroke oil designed for a bike, not a boat.... Maxima, Spectro, Amsoil, Yamalube, Motul...all are fine.

I would double check the slide spring, the seating, make sure the little plastic collar that holds the throttle cable into the slide is seated properly...and most importantly the cable routing and proper slack...

Are you using the correct cable, and what kind of shape is it in?

That's a good point, BigBoy.... I was talking more about a little casual drag racing in dunes and street. When you start getting into bracket racing and more competitive against a breakout time like you are....that is a very, very good point and well taken. Not trying to take anything away from you...at all! It most definately takes less conditioning than trail/track/jumping...than skill. Point well taken from all. My good buddy is building a big bore stroker TRX...probably be in the neighborhood of 65HP or so. Of course, he hasn't ordered the parts, I haven't got my cub running right yet...but that doesn't stop the endless shit talking between us...all in fun.

So...when you guys talk about running alky in your bikes....I can't just get a case of Bud Light, fill up the tank (the bikes, not my own) and go for a rip?? :yelrotflmao: :beer:

Nitrogen, Nitrous Oxide...same family, right?? :baseball_shocked: :beer:

BigBoy... I think you'll agree...ashphalt or pavement offers a more consistent surface time after time. Sand or dirt...changes with just about every race. I'm sure you'll agree most races are won with the holeshot...given bikes and riders of similar status. Sure...on a drag strip (pavement) one lane might be a little different than the other...but, dirt or sand varies more so. That being said...being steady on the clutch and gas takes more finnesse (skill) in dirt or sand than pavement. It's the difference between a good launch, sitting on your grab bar or digging in up to your axle. I know...launching on pavement is just as important...but I think it is a little easier to master... just my .02 :beer:

Yep...and I've given some advice on that as well!! Good luck!

Turning the idle screw in raises the idle, not lower...it pushes against the slide to raise it. Check that. You did turn in the idle screw...and NOT the air/fuel mixture screw, right? Make sure you have a little slack in the throttle cable...pull the air filter off, and look down the back of the carb body...you should be able to move the throttle just a hair before the slide actually opens. Make sure the cable is routed properly so it's not getting hung up on anything... And lastly....and hopefully...it's not an air leak. If none of the above work out...get a can of carb cleaner, spray it generously around the new intake system. if it dies down...you've got an air leak... Good luck.

Ok...I see your point. The crying and whining can and has gotten out of hand a few times...but, MOST of the time, it's clean fun and competition. I'll agree on ashphalt or street, it doesn't take quite as much skill. But...drag racing at the dunes or in sand/dirt sure does. I've seen a lot lesser bikes beat ones it shouldn't...and it was all skill...

I believe (it's been a little while) the wire that went to the clutch/parking brake assembly. I just twisted them together. I think it was a black/green and black wire...but, I'm not 100% on that...

Ok...you've come to a site, dedicated to Banshees. Arguably the best drag racing quad ever built. That's like going to a Ford site, and saying piss on Mustangs....you obviously don't get it. If you don't like drag racing...that's fine. To each is own. Go buy a four stroke..trail ride and be happy. Coming to a Banshee site and putting down drag racing and all those who partake is plain stupid, period. It's about pride, competition and sportsmanship. Something you don't understand, obviously... Sure, feelings get hurt. Don't you have any siblings? Didn't you hurt their feelings or get yours hurt at one time or another? We're all brothers and sisters on this site. Some we're fond of...other we're not...but, it's a family...period. I've been to Silver Lake and sat where they drag for hours. Racing some, BSing some... It's like going to car show. Sometimes the BSing and stories are as much fun as the riding... You're seriously mistaken if you think drag racing skills can be learned easily... Different mods, different bikes, different riding conditions...all play a part. Some people have a natural talent for it, others have to work harder at it. Go take your banshee on that 75 mile trip and hold it WOT...you'll be back soon asking how to build it or what went wrong...

Ha ha...beat you to another one...Ell... :beer:

You might be on the edge of being just a tad rich. Of course, with the temp increase that just makes it a little more so. Drop the mains one size...see how it runs, and chop 'em again. I'd say your plugs look pretty good. A little brown ring is exactly what you want...about 2mm... Drop the main one, do a plug chop at the 70 degree temps you'll be riding at. See how they look. If they look this good, it runs good...have a little bit of confidence knowing you'll be just a tad richer at higher temps. I'm not sure...but your pilot might be a little fat for your elevation as well...someone with some PJ experience might be able to help...

Ditto...taking off the plastic and Tank make it loads easier to work on and reroute. Put the tank back on, DON'T bolt it down, and start it up. Let it warm up...turn the bars lock to lock...and make sure it doesn't rev up. Make sure there is a little slack in the cable, too. If you haven't had the carbs apart in a while, might not be a bad time to tear 'em down and give them a good, thougough cleaning as well.

Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge.... The "Best" engine builder is one you feel comfortable with, charges a fair rate, and you're happy with your setup once their done. And...offers support if you have any trouble. Everyone here has their favorites. If I were you, I'd call Jeff @ FAST, Jim @ Passion, Kim @ K&T, Redline, Grand River Racing and A&S racing....to start. Talk with each of them. See who you're comfortable with...and go from there. They are all reputable builders with a wealth of knowledge. Personally, I like Jeff @ FAST. I'm not knocking any of the others...but after buying a 90 dollar clutch from him last year...his customer service, attitude and support had me sold first call. Plus...his pricing is damn good. When I bought my cub...he was my 1st choice and he hasn't let me down since. There was a little tiff earlier about FAST vs. Passion engines...and remarkably, like smart businessmen that they are, Jeff and Jim stayed out of it.... I've talked to Jeff and he has nothing but respect and good things to say about Jim. I'm sure that is likewise about Jim to Jeff. Competition is nothing but good for our sport and family...we all win.

On mine, 96, I didn't have to splice and connect. On my bud's 98, I did. On my other buddies 2001, I did as well. Do yourself a favor ...get an easy pull clutch lever and perch. Get rid of that parking brake cable and get a block off plate. Cleans up the look and makes the pull easier on ya... The lever, perch and block off plate can be had for under 60 bucks or so...