Jump to content

dajogejr

Members
  • Posts

    15,548
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. I just got some exaust heat shields from Cascade, but they're for the stinger tubes so they don't melt stuffed in air filters and outerwears... Some cars will wrap the headers to keep less heat in the Engine compartment...but wrapping a muffler on a two stroke won't do squat. If you wrap the pipe, maybe...probably not though... I've heard ceramic coating helps...but, I have no dyno sheets or otherwise to confirm that.
  2. Nope...no tail light... (I tell my 4 stroke buddy there will be too much roost thrown at him for a tail light, anywho... ) I stripped it all yesterday. I left the key switch and wires hanging until I can pickup a CR Style push kill...then it'll be done. Amazing how much crap you can strip once you get rid of it all. No worries...TORS have been gone for years. In fact...that may be the new mounting point for my CDI...not sure yet. Since I'm picking up a Dyna...I think leaving it out back will make it easier to get to for programming it and "hitting the dip switches"...
  3. I agree... For the price it'll cost you to get your head rechambered, it'll worth buying a NOSS head that will seal better with O Rings, run your shee cooler due to the deflectors built in...and of course, there's the trick factor...they sure do look nice.
  4. Many people relocate it under the seat... I just got rid of my lights and switches....gonna get an MX bike style kill for it...
  5. I would double check the facts on that... I can't see how a few thousands base gasket will compensate for a 2mm offset and keep the pistons from smacking the head. That gasket would have to be .080 to compensate for the added stroke...I've never heard of such a thick base gasket... I'm not saying your wrong...I'm just saying check with Wiseco to make sure that gasket is in fact .080...oh, then add another .010 since it'll compress a little...
  6. If you run the spacer, you are correct... Don't mistake cc dome size for clearance of the piston...squish angle and cc volume are two different things. Sure, they relate to each other...but...ok, anyways. Yes...if you get the spacer, you're fine on porting and squish... Stock carbs will work. You're missing out on power with stock carbs...on top end. To be honest...you're spending money on a stroker crank, new pistons, etc. Now is the time to port it anyways...carbs can wait. I'd get porting done while it's apart...
  7. Ask and you shall receive... I use Yamabond on the cases...hi temp RTV should be fine. Just a thin layer, and I'd let it setup for 15 minutes before assembling them.
  8. Thanks a bunch... Getting ready to buy a new Stator and Dyna...and didn't want to pop either of them over something stupid like that.... :beer:
  9. Yeah, I usually do mine head bolts in sequence, start at 20, then 21, then 22 all the way around. Warm it up...let it cool down, and check 'em again.
  10. He's dead on for this... On the stockers, snug them up good by hand, no need to tighten them with channel locks. Then, lock them down with the factory hold downs. I've had the stockers stick wide open, I loosed the top 1/16 or so a turn and the slide snapped shut.
  11. I'm getting ready to strip all the lights off mine, and get rid of that bulky on/off and headlight switch in favor of a CR style push button kill.... Question... Since I'm removing the lights 100%...I can take off my voltage regulator too, right? All that thing does is soak up the volts so I'm not frying bulbs, am I correct?
  12. 20 to 22 Ft Lbs for the jugs and the head. Just make sure you torque them down in sequence... As far as the case bolt...not sure. I just gave 'em two grunts, then an extra 1/4 turn...
  13. If your banshee has an airbox, yes...this is what you want. Get an outerwear for it too. If you decide to remove the airbox all together...or it doesn't have one in the first place, then you can get clamp on (or pod) filters that clamp directly onto the back of the carbs. Clamp on or Pod, it's the same thing. If that's the case, Magic has this kit to remove your airbox... http://www.magicracing.com/KN-Clamp-On-Kit...e_p_80-470.html
  14. Yes, it's the 795 series piston. I'm not 100% sure if you have to get the head cut or not... I think you do...
  15. What wesw meant to say is air screws won't effect more than 1/8 throttle to WOT. They come into play from idle to about 1/8 throttle roughly...then, the needle takes over...to about roughly 3/4 throttle...then you're all on the main baby...
  16. Very...Very true indeed. I love farting around camp and riding some trails on my buddies 450's. People can knock the 4 strokes all they want, but they are fun! My buddy has a pepped up TRX...and he's building a big bore stroked Falicon motor... However...for dunes and drag racing...even if the 4 strokes are pretty fast, I still like the powerband and hit of the twin screamer!!
  17. Don't forget, you'll need grips too...another 10 to 15 bucks. Get Spyder grips...if RMATV carries them. You will not be dissapointed. Any ATV High or CR High bend bars will be just fine... Magic is usually in the ballpark...and sometimes cheaper than RMATV. Here's a whole bunch to sort through... http://www.magicracing.com/Handlebars_c_155-1.html
  18. Well...I'm going out on a limb. If you HAVE to race a banshee in MX...yes. I know, I know...you can buy better suspension, yadda yadda yadda....and make a banshee into an MX bike. You can also buy a new 4 stroke, and after eventualy spending enough money...turn it into a fast ass drag/dune bike. I equate it like this: You wouldn't buy a corvette to drive in the snow You wouldn't buy a convertable to leave the top up on a 75 to 80 degree sunny beautiful day You wouldn't buy a 4X4 utility quad to drag race at the sand dunes You wouldn't buy a Ferrari to go 30 feet up and down your driveway only (ok...well..maybe.. ) I just think a new 450 quad is better suited with less investment for track and trails. Like it has been said, you put enough monkeys in a room with a typewriter, eventualy they will write gone with the wind.... :beer:
  19. You've got bling? Where? :yelrotflmao: You probably polished that RS Stator plate anyway, didn't you... :beer:
  20. Yep, you've officially been bit by the bug!! Unless you're just drag racing that quad, your back/shoulders/arms will get tired very fast from being that low, especially at your height. It'll almost be like riding a crotchrocket over trails... Taller bars would be first on my list for you...trust me.. Shorter riders would love that setup...but I think you'll be better off going up higher on the bars...
  21. Um...hacked, smacked...grinded...fuct Those terms all come to mind...
  22. The pro design is a pretty piece of polished aluminum...that you will NEVER see unless you take the side cover off. For roughly 1/3 of the price...get the Ricky Stator timing plate. Many, Many people run the RS plate, yours truly included. It's like chroming the inside of your gas tank. Yeah, it's cool...it's bling..but, who the hell is ever gonna see it?
  23. The 4 mil longrod crank is drop in. If you go bigger (a la 7mm or bigger) you would have to get the cases trenched. That, and once you go bigger than 4 mil the price almost doubles... You will have to get your stock jugs ported, to take advantage of and match the new port timings due to the longer stroke... You can use 795 series pistons....or, I believe you can use Blaster Pistons ( I have a big bore cub, so...I use 68mm blaster pistons)... You will have to get your head recut, or you'll have to buy an aftermarket head with domes cut for the stroker.... To be honest...a 21cc dome will probably fit your bill. You can't build a motor to run pump most of the time, and race gas once in a while. You either will need the octane or you won't...so, a 21cc dome sounds like it'll fit your bill. You could always buy a set of 17 or 18cc domes and switch them out if you feel like a little more oomph and running straight race gas..
  24. This is absolutely priceless info! Use a cutter like WD40, liquid wrench, and use a boat load of it. This should ONLY be done once you've stripped the carb to nothing, no floats, jets, etc...just a bare body...
  25. Yep...that's pretty shitty. It's like...let's take advantage of the guy that doesn't quite want to shell out 4+ bucks a quart for full, but wants something better than your .89 to 1.19 bottle of oil... It was funny to watch that Mobil guy just kinda duh...duh...duh... The funny thing is, the original guy who said one side of the road, etc., later became our SVP of Operations...he jumped ship from Mobil. Sad...very sad...
×
×
  • Create New...