dajogejr

Seriously BigRed...stop talking about how much you guys go riding, it's making me sick... :happy: :beer:

Normally...I learn from my own mistakes. Occasionally...I get to watch my friends make 'em.

See...you have TORS adjusters on there, they make for a bit of a pain to work on them. I would first make sure (by looking down the backs of the carbs) they aren't getting stuck and are moving in unison. Once you start taking off the carb tops, they can go out of sync. Once you're sure they aren't sticking and are in sync, then you can adjust the idle a little. It shouldn't be off by far. I think once you seal up the filter and get the air screws properly adjusted, you'll find the idle shouldn't be off by far, if at all. By the way, you do NOT need to tighten down the carb caps with an adjustable wrench...just get them nice and snug by hand, then tighten down the brackets that prevent the caps from working themselves loose. If you tighten the caps down too much, then can stick as well. Good luck!!!

AMEN... Good luck...post up a sheet when you get done!!

Yep...perfect. Many people do that. Ok i will do on the airscrews have already done a 1/2 turn in but is still idling really high with the choke in and really rough and low with the choke out like it almost doesnt need it even when starting from cold. If the airfilter isn't sealed...this is going to happen. You're sucking air...big time. Is there any tip for getting the cable lock out of the throttle slides? Clymers just says remove it, but doesnt seem to want to budge! Do you mean the little metal clip in the slides? Are you squeezing the return spring all the way? That's what holds it in place. Compress the spring with your hands, tip the slide upside down, and shake it just a bit. It should fall out. Then, there's two small phillips screws holding the cable mount down. MAKE SURE you pay attention to how these come out. The hold in the mount should line up with the hole in top of the slide. that needs to vent or it'll be like your piston in the cylinder...not good for a carb... Good luck!

Boy...if that ain't the absolute truth, I don't know what is. The few hundred here and there are adding up F.A.S.T. though..... (pun intended...)

He was working on my cub motor a few months ago. When I went to pick it up, he had just the bare frame (and 2 others) in the back of a truck straight from the Powder coater.... I saw the enging on the bench...I about pitched a tent... He's also got a turbo bike which I haven't seen...yet. PM him, he's a helluva guy and won't steer you wrong.

How is it running crappy...boggy, like it's rich...or popping/cutting out like it's lean. Start with your air screws. I'd turn 'em all the way in, start at 1/2 turn out...and once you turn 'em give 'em 20 seconds to take the new adjustment. See how it runs. Keep on turning the air screw 1/2 turn out at a time, once you go past 2.5 to 3 turns, get smaller (leaner) pilots. Then...go to the needle. I'd start by richening it. If it goes worse...well, you get the idea. What elevation and temps you running at? What needle you running? Take it for a good ride, staying below the top of the revs...and see how your plugs look.

You do have the pro-flow adapter in place so the filter will bolt and seal to the front of the airbox, right? If not...stop now, get it. If so... Your mains should be fine with just a K&N and no lid. Try turning each of your airscrews in .5 to 1.0 turns. I doubt you'll have to richen up the needle...but if you do, bump the clip one spot richer (one towards the pointed end)...

Nope...didn't mean it that way. I bought a new inner and outer along with my basket. Everything in there was OEM, except from Jeff's clutch. When I go the route I plan on going...I'll be up over 100HP... I'll talk with Jeffro again, but...I'll probably get a billet assembly. If he says don't worry about it...I'll keep OEM in there. I know there's less wear on the plates with a lockup, so...OEM might be fine. I'll probably go dunable override while I'm doing all this as well... Jeff hasn't steered me wrong yet, so...I'll go with what he recommends. (ok...so my wallet doesn't always like him...but, oh well... ) J/K...Jeff....your banshee crack addict will talk to you next week!! :beer:

Yeah, once I go drag porting, alky, Shearers and a lockup clutch...I might be ready for that route...

OEM inner and pressure plate. I think it's a Magnum basket...

Look over at PlanetSand.com I know cubshee has a crankenstein lower with rotax upper, and a lockout...shit, here's one of his bikes on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Cra...sspagenameZWDVW

No doubt...you already know I didn't mean that as a bad thing, you just use your machine, period. I just wanted to clarify that for other readers... I plan on beating the tar out of mine when I get it sorted, just as I did last year. But, I maintain mine pretty well too. Probably overboard...but, that's just the way I've always been. Again, raiderfan...no way to tell for sure. Keep an eye on your compression, those that have been riding a while can tell when their bike is starting to lose some get up... It is easier to maintain the top end than it is to tear apart the cases, rebuild or replace the crank, etc. Not to mention, MUCH cheaper.... There is no exact answer...you get to know your machine and how shee act/runs, and you'll know if something is not right. NO ONE on here can tell you if you do this, expect this much life out of it...knowing your bike and proper maintenance is the key!!

New Piston(s) are generally about 130 to 150 for a set, including new wrist pins and bearings. Cubs have their own base gasket, prolly another 20 bucks. And...lastly, new head gasket, 10 bucks or so. If you have a Noss head or coolhead they use Orings, which...normally I'll reuse once before I replace them. You can get an ORing kit from DLNoss for just under 17 bucks plus shipping. keep in mind, your milage may vary...BigRed will agree he beats the tar out of his...so, if you're easier on yours, you could last 100 hours. You could also last 30 hours... Correct jetting and proper maintenance will always prolong rebuild time (clean air filter, fresh gas and a quality premix oil, etc.)

Yep...sure can, and many do. You can even remove almost the whole survace, and they make an outerwear to go over it to keep the big stuff out. Figure from 1 to 3 sizes larger on the main, might have to turn in the air screw 1/2 a turn as well.

Too many answers to that question. When you nearly double the horsepower of a stock motor...shit will break or wear out faster than if you left it 100% bone stock. Nature of the beast, period. You'll have to change the piston as often as it requires...I think BigRed says he gets about 75 hours of use out of his. The nice thing is...it's nikasil. So, as long as you don't lock it up or damage the cylinders, just hone 'em and throw in new pistons. No need to bore, etc. A stock tranny is good up until either 125 or 150 HP...I'm not certain which of those numbers it is. However...the clutch holding up and not slipping like a biyatch is another story....

His PM is FASTOYS. I think it's barnett HS springs, thicker stock steels and FZR600 street bike fibers, but...I could be wrong. If you have a basic motor, not a lot of mods, you can get away with using 3 stock springs and 3 HD springs, it'll ease the pull a bit. I had a piped shee last year, and this worked no problem. After a year of beating the bejesus out of it, it still looks great. When I switched to my cub motor this year, however...I'm using all 6 HD springs and it didn't slip at all on a dyno...that's saying a lot. I also bought a new inner and outer hub, and new basket from Jeff as well...

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...40&navType=type Measure the OD of the bell on the carb. Check with Magic Racing, too. I know for stock carbs, they have a steal on a twin pod kit w/ outerwears and a coolant resevoir bracket, like 69 or 79 bucks. That's cheap!

80+ HP out of the box normally isn't...

With 19cc domes, a fresh motor and a mild CDI...110 would be your safe bet.

That's 25 to 30 celcius....right? That's 75 to 90 or so....Farenheit... And, ap is right. You can not leave the air box lid off without a proflow adapter...the bottom side of the lid actually secures the airfilter tight against the front of the box and seals it. Without an adapter, the air filter will just bounce around...

You have a 95% chance of it taking something with it... If you're going through the steps to weld that crank, I'd freshen up the top end, too. Actually...check the compression first...maybe just a hone and rering if everything is in spec.

This is a guideline only... With the air lid on, 250 mains. With the lid off, 280 mains. We need more info... My estimates are at or near sea level (less than 1000 ft.) and 65 to 90 degree riding temps. Do yourself a favor, ditch that boost bottle. It's taking up room...and that's about it.

Thanks...Brad. Sorry to "jack" this thread... Just worried about getting mine running at this point...or running right I should say. Brad...if I had your ride, I'd be an attention detail freak too...that bike is the shit!