dajogejr

Pretty much what I was thinking...you just put it more "eloquently" than I did...kudos. I wouldn't say it's the lack of intelegence itself, we all learn at a different age...more so the posting of total crap from that lack of knowledge... :beer:

Bolt ons compliment the real work. Get a dune port, you'll be happy.

He's 14 years old. The Huffy only takes you so far...

Someone who posts just for the sake of posting, not contributing anything useful, and is all around annoying and/or here to stir up shit.

Hell NO. If it's pinging on stock timing, the other settings are only more advanced (If I had a scanner at home, I'd post up the timing maps)..

First off, look at the heading of your post. "We already have to pay for gas...what's next...grass..." That's not complaining?... Second of all, in all of you 90 plus posts in the whole 5 days you've been a member, I've yet to see anything worthwhile reading of yours. If you've come here to troll...go elsewhere, perhaps to one of those other sites that you "don't have to pay for"..... :yankyank: Edit... Nevermind...you're 14 years old. It all makes sense now.

I'd call mine a 2006, but...since 96 is the best year...I'll stick with my roots... :beer:

Yep...pretty much the consens I've came up with by talking to a dyna engineer over at Planet Sand. I'll try the ol R series again.... Thanks for the info!

JT...you know they make billet bowls for our carbs? They hold 1/3 more fuel, I think. Also...another trick is to remove one of the floats.... :beer:

Yeah...you were ok with the bellies...but once you went to inside their rear legs..it's all over... Actually...you'll probably only catch shit if you move further back (past the inside of their rear legs)... :laugh:

Can you even call that thing a 97 anymore... :yelrotflmao: I can tell you 96 and 95 have a different wiring harness...since I got my new Stator yesterday and my dyna today. Other than that...the A or J arms is the biggest thing. And of course, color and graphics. And, to answer your question, 96 is the best. :beer:

C12 is rated at 108 Motor Octane... At 200 PSI and a good timing curve...it might be too much. You might have to use octane booster or get a fuel in the 115 range or so.... Try setting the dyna back to the stock setting. And don't run it like that for too long making that noise, bad things will happen!! You're not running a timing plate and/or a degree key, are you?

I agree. What I do is put a little hi temp RTV on the bottom of the threads, screw them in hand tight snug...and let them sit for an hour to dry. You don't need to crank them down OR put loctite on them, period.

What curve is that dyna on?

I'm assuming you mean the needle in the slide. Compress the spring with your fingers, and tip the slide upside down. A brass insert will fall out, then jiggle the cable out of the slide. The slide will have two screws holding the cable tower down, remove them, and the tower will fall out. The needle will come out next. At this point...you're best off to get a TORS removal kit...but, to each is own....

Pefect... If you decide to go with VForce Reeds or other aftermarket cages, you might have to bump that clip up one...(leaner) to the blunt end. Glad to hear!!

Need some help here, I got a post in over at PS too. Nology with hotwires says their coil setup should be run without resistor plugs. My new Dyna (just opened the box) says it needs to be run ONLY with resistor plugs. So...whaddaya think? Of course...I just bought 4 B8EGVs at 6 bucks a pop or so...go figure.

No way we can tell you for sure. 300 would be safer... Now...are you just reading the tips of the plugs, or actually doing a plug chop? A new plug can take a little while before the insulator nose starts to color. However...by doing a plug chop properly (involves a grinder or hack saw) you should get a light chocolate 2mm ring around the base of the porcelin. Gotta be honest, though...with an airbox and no lid, 300 is usually a little rich. 270 to 280 is the norm....

Man...pack them questions in... J/K... Search for the TORS unplugging, here's the cliff notes. Unplug the black box underneath the tank, in front of the fuel valve. Unplug the wires going into the top of each carb. Unplug the wires at the thumb throttle and the parking brake block off. From the Ignition, you may have to cross the wires going from the TORS to the on/off headlight switch...models vary. You can either eyeball the slides and use the adjusters on top the carbs...or, get a syncrometer tool. Jeff @ FAST sells them, they are priceless. Or...you can ebay for them.

Lame...yep. But...it can pass the time...

First off...with just pipes, drop that front back down to a 14 tooth. I just read it's basically brand new. If I were you, I'd get a few bolt ons first. Take off the lid of the box, or...remove it. Lighten your flywheel. Get a timing plate. Boost Bottle...(ha ha...just kidding) Get rid of the TORS. Buy a NOSS head. If I had a brand new engine, I'd have a hard time justifying tearing it down for no reason...or just to get more performance. I'd wait till after the first year or so to tear it down and go porting, etc... Just my .02.

How the fuck can you guys miss that part? I'd buy those in a heart beat... Brooke, what size sweety...they're on the way... :yelrotflmao: Seriously....if you were interested in buying them, which Clearly you're not...I can sort of see you getting revved up about this. You pointed out the faults, let the other readers and members decide on their own... I too think you got your panties in a bunch over this... Seriously...there has been entirely too much ranting and raving on for sale ads here...it makes me sick. Especially the "your motor didn't make that much HP"...or, "this pipe is better than that pipe" Bullshit. Hell...I got an idea, why don't we just unban Ronnie Sheppick (aka sheppick, dickbag, pole smoker, fart locker robber, cock jockey...etc.) so we can all have a public enemy #1... (Sorry Bansh...I'm not trying to get too down on you, rather lighten this thread up a bit...)

You'd be wasting your money on a cub, IMO. I had a similar idea...and I only ride fast trails and dunes. I skipped the trail idea... Your money would be much better spent getting a dune port on the stock cylinders, freshen up the top end, and get your stock crank welded if you haven't already. I tried to choke a cub down with T5s and Stock carbs...it's just not worth it IMO.

I'm confused by your answer... Are you saying when you swap coil wires...the problem does the same on the other cylinder?

I'm going to assume the T6's are close to the T5's in jetting. Are you using the Toomey needles (dynojet) or the stockers? Stockers, 3rd clip (middle) Toomey Needles 4th groove from the blunt end (6 total) 25 Pilots, 340 mains is what I ended up with whether I used the foam 1 into 2 filter of my K&N Pod clamp ons. Start the air screws at 1 turn out. Adjust the air screws until that bog goes away...