dajogejr

You got the wrong sparky's if they come loose or fall off. The ones I got from Magic Racing clamp down and don't move. I've had to take them off (for the A/F meter on a dyno) and I worked my ass off just to slip them off. Toomey silencers have a lip that the sparky fits over...trust me, with the right measurement, they ain't coming off.

I'd ask the same in the sand forum... With your motor and +4 swinger...I'd say 10 row with about a 70 or 72 inch rollout. You want a taller, narrow paddle... I got a steal on my +6 swinger and 12 row paddles...but, I think I'm going to be pointing skyward a lot with my setup once it's back together...

If you put Orings back in with Jeff's clutch you did it wrong. Those O Rings are for the OEM clutch only, and they are supposed to cut down chatter. NO aftermarket clutch uses them. Jeff is out of town for the week, riding in Idaho...I talked to him last week on Tuesday when he shipped out my Dyna. He is very responsive...but keep in mind, when he returns he's gonna have a weeks worth of PMs to sort though. After beating on his clutch all last year with my stock motor, T5 pipes and a few bolt ons, it still looked brand new when I tore my motor down and built my cub. With 84.8 HP at the rear wheels, his clutch didn't slip at all on a dyno. Since that dyno, I added 35PWKs, a Nology Coil, Dyna CDI and I'm probably going to get some RDZ pipes...which should put me roughly at about 95ish or so. I can't wait to see how his clutch holds up to that. I should mention, as well...when I built this motor I put a new basket, inner and outer hub in as well....

It's easier that way, but not necessary... A hammer and chisel (or air hammer) can get that off.

Not trying to be a smart ass, but he's replaced the stator, CDI, coil and wiring harness...what else is there? I'm assuming Bri bought an RS Stator, which comes with a new timing plate and pickup.... Brian...check the wires behind the timing plate to make sure they're not pinched. Did you buy a new harness, or redo yours? I have two extra stock coils laying around...I could ship you if you think that'll help. The CDI and Stator I have is from my 96...so, wiring is different. Did you remove and unplug the TORS brain under the tank?

It removes the stuffers from the VF3's... Cascade has them, 5 bucks a piece. Tell them you want the VForce 3 reed stuffers they use with the 1 into two carb intake setup. I talked to Steve (BKabina) and I got a set. For 10 bucks, worth a shot...we'll see.

Yeah...if you can keep him off his own bike to get time....that guy rides 4 to5 times a week...and all weekend... :yelrotflmao:

I don't remember the stock compression ratio...but more comp in any motor is a good thing... Those guys will advance the timing and up the squeez on their lawnmowers.... Blackcounty will tell you...stock gas tank works just fine! I dropped my shee off at cubshee's house Saturday. When he told me what he'd build me a 10mil on alky for, I about cried. I wish he wouldn't have told me... Needless to say, my 4 mil cub might possibly be up for sale beginning of next year for a 10mil alky motor...

Head over to Planetsand.com, Chase... Those guys are hard core drag racers, period. They could probably tell you 10 shops that'll do that...probably one within driving distance I'd imagine. Sorry...Red. Not trying to take $$ out of your pocket...but, that shipping, etc. would probably be a pain!!

That's it...I'm moving out by you... :beer: :yelrotflmao:

I'd say as long as they are lower than stock, or even with the frame, you'll be ok. Good luck getting the side cover off, let alone the motor out with welded footpegs as high as stock...

Higher than stock compression, yes...but, if you already have a shaved head or custom head...you don't need more compression for alky... As far as the tank, you don't need a new one. The factory plastic is better than anything out there for alky...unless...as said...you want a bigger tank to hold more. As far as premix, you do run more oil. Normally in the 20:1 to 28:1 range... As far as type, Klotz Benol has long been a favorite for the alky crowd, and seems to stay mixed the best.... Red...you going alky? You dirty dog... After I get mine sorted out and get a season on it...alky might be in my future.... Timing is the same. Plugs, you generally run a smaller gap, .018 to .022. I forget if they run a 7 or a 9 plug...for some reason, I wanna say 9...but not sure.

I agree... Mine have always been cut. T5 pipes, timing, etc. Beat the hell out of it, non-stop drag racing, and I've never overheated it yet... You might want to check and see if that plastic gear for the water pump impeller broke off. That certainly would cause it to boilover...

To each is own...I've never seen a stocker overheat, and I used to hold mine wide open for a good minute or so back at my old property up north.... I would say there is a balancing point...between power and heat. I think you'll agree...a built motor doesn't have to work as hard...however, once you start upping the compression, advancing the timing, it's going to run hotter...albeit work easier... So, it's a trade off in my book. I run straight water in mine. But...a cub w/ a NOSS head has MUCH better cooling capacity than a stock jug/stock head...

First off, get that clymers manual. Second, there are two jets in the bottom of the carb, once you get the float bowl off. The larger hex head is the main. Directly in front of where that sits is the Pilot Jet. You need a small, flat blade screwdriver to remove it. Take it out, and use a piece of speaker wire (one strand) or air to blow it out... The holes on this are very, very tiny and could easily get clogged by a spec of dirt, no kidding.

There is nothing wrong with the stock carbs, they work well..once you remove the TORS. I agree...bigger carbs are better for performance...but, I wouldn't be buying them to troubleshoot. Make sure you remove the Main, Pilot and needle and seat and clean them all very well... You can just tip the stockers upside down, and set the floats level... The bottom of the float (top side when upside down) is suppoed to be 21mm higher than the gasket surface...and keep in mind...the needle itself is spring loaded, make sure you're not pushing that spring in when setting the height or you'll get a false reading...

Stop using the starting fluid to start that bike... Take off the carbs, remove all jets, floats, needle and seat, and clean the shit out of them. Then...reassemble 'em. Do each one at a time, so you don't switch parts. Then, sync them back up properly (make sure the slides open at the same time) and see where that gets you.

The stock design overflow tube to the bottle behind the toolkit traps air and coolant and can cause it to spill out from being trapped. Some people remove this overflow bottle all together. I relocated mine to the front inside the frame. Since you have stock exhaust, I'm assuming the rest of the quad is stock too...I highly doubt it's really overheating...

True... But it's good forum Etiquette not to resurrect old threads, rather start a new one. Kudos to him for actually using the search...though...

I guess you boys didn't realize this thread was from 2003....

Not trying to be a smart ass...but how do you know the compression is good? Did you use a tester for it? Also...might be time for a leakdown test.

The only way I can see that having any teeth whatsoever if if there are different exhaust requirements for the Tree Hugger captiol of the world. (CA, green sticker, etc.,) Over on this side of the country....the motor's been the same start to finish.

RD or RDZ? Call a few builders...but, beware...they're all pretty busy right now. Jeff from FAST gets my money, but call a bunch. Jeff, Jim @ Passion, Patriot Racing, K&T, Redline, Grand River Racing, RDZ....the list goes on and on... If this ever was a true statement, it goes double for port work. You get what you pay for. Don't shop by price alone...

You're right...this does belong in the BS. I think others, myself included, were tired of seeing BS in other threads and vented about it here. It's all good...

Nope, not pissed at all. As long as he keeps to the General section, Roosting room or whatever social threads, that's fine. But...EastCoast made a good point. There are more learning threads on here than chit chat threads. If you're not going to offer something in those threads...then stay out.... I try my best not to offend anyone, and keep it light. But, the bottom line is...keep the BS where the BS belongs...