dajogejr

Let's not beat around the bush here. Did you accidentally bend a needle when you took it apart or reassembled it? If so...just say so. Hell yes it could cause the idle problem, and that's if you're lucky. Keep it up...and it could cause it not to go back in, and stick half open. So...if you think you bent your needle, get new ones. Stock needles are junk anyways...get some Vito's or Dynojet needles.

Yep...go on the pipe. My T5's would've melted the outerwears and filters once I got my 35PWKs...but, as said, never ran 'em. You can see a pic of them here: The funny thing is...these wraps are on RDZ/Shearer pipes....and those pipes you DON'T need them!! http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...ORE_DEPT_ID=168

Not with stock carbs...now you'd be pushing it. Porting, carbs...then pipes. Just get inframe drag pipes....unless you only plan on drag racing and don't have to worry about any noise ordinances...

Stock carbs aren't that bad of a design, actually. Once you start getting into porting, etc., though...they are gonna lose their ability to take advantage of that. Sure...you can run 'em, but you will be missing out on performance.... Good lucK!

I agree. Normally...you may have to lean out the needle one clip..but, is not always neccessary... If it's a little boggy in the middle, move the clip one notch towards the blunt end. You will however have to rejet for the K&N Pod filters. If you're going from airbox to clamp ons, it'll be about 3 or 4 sizes larger on the main....

Magicracing.com carbparts.com Either one will have what you need. Might as well get 6 Plugs or so...to get it dialed in. Lucky dog...only one jet...instead of buying a set of two...

First off... If you're near sea level...and you're at .030...you already need at least a mix of race gas, if not 100% race gas. Bluetraxx... :yankyank: 'nuff said. The stock head can be milled and rechambered to cool about as well as a NOSS head or ProDesign, and run O Rings (seal much better). However...for the price of that, you might as well pony up a few more bucks...and have the ability to change domes as said. (Dave, rechambering the stock head for better cooling is right from Dan Hull's mouth, A&S racing, just so you know... I talked to him a long time ago about a cub motor, and we talked about this as well...)

6 turns? Did you check to make sure they're still there? List all your mods...we'll go from there.

Doubt it. More than likely a sticking cable and/or slide and/or TORS adjusters if you still have them. With the bike idling, turn the bars full lock to lock (one side to the other) see if that raises the idle as well...tell tale sign of binding cable.

Good idea to keep it. It keeps the sloshing fuel to the main jet. Can't say I tried running my stockers without them...

Not to be a smart ass Ruko...just clarfying this up for the original poster... K&T does not build...or MAKE these engines. They use these engine components...to build their bikes. I got my cub from Jeff @ FAST, and am very happy with it. (That's right, Red. Got it back last night, first "real" ride today. OMG...it's an animal!!! )

It has a 5 valve head. 3 of which are intake valves. Yep...you guessed it. One carb feeds two valves, the other 1. I know from experience. Helped a buddy jet his Craptor. Looked at 'em...and sure as shit I'm like "WTF...two different size mains???? " Looked it up, and that's why... It's normall one size better. Someone makes a single carb kit for that monster...much easier to workon. Then again, the 06 model is EFI...so no worries.

The DID X Ring gold from magic is an excellent chain. Rode it all last year, and it seemed like all we did is drag race. Gave it to my cheapo buddy, his stocker was kinked. Still going great! If I didn't buy a +6 for my cub, I'd have no doubt it still be on my bike...tough mofo!

Those are called boost ports. If done correctly...they are a great port job. Some builders TIG weld the area there to build it up, only to create these new ports. Some use epoxy... Personally, I'd trust a weld before an epoxy... Those are HUGE jets, especially considering you have T5 pipes. But...as posted before here by someone else...they've used mains that big with drag porting...so, look at the plugs... Word to the wise, I only reuse the ORings once before I buy new ones. For 20 bucks, it aint' worth stressing over.

Make sure your airgap is .015 to .020. Check both flywheel lugs... Any of your buds ride shee's? I believe 97 to 2005 or 2006 are the same CDI wiring. See if you could borrow one...(I'd send you mine to try, but I've got a 96 on my bench) Did you get your coil and stator from RS? Is the headlight switch on when you kick it and they come on...or are they turned off? the latter suggests a wiring problem. Time to get dirty. First, make sure all the old TORS stuff is unplugged, period. Second, untape your harness, look for burns, bare wire, etc. Follow it from the key switch, kill switch, headlight to tailight, stator to CDI...

actually...someone's done that for you: http://www.magicracing.com/UPP-Carb-Boots-..._p_163-675.html

Odd...normally, the PSI raises when it's hot and it's a bit lower when cold. Did you hold the throttle WOT when you checked compression? What octane gas are you running? I have a spare coil. If you want to pay for shipping...on your honor, I'll ship it to you to test. Ship it back when you're done...or we can work out a price for it should you decide to keep it. But...testing with a buddies will obviously be easier.. Normaly, the wires are ok, but the end caps go bad. NGK end caps are pretty cheap...pick some of those up before you go buy another coil.

Sidewinder is by far the best. They are pricey as hell...but might possibly be the last chain and sprockets you might ever buy...

You've got a PM. **Spacers Sold** Still have heat wraps.

Up for sale are two brand new, never used Cascade heat wraps for small bore pipes. I bought them for my T5 pipes, but bought RDZ's instead, and do not need them due to the design of the new pipes. Paid 40 bucks plus shipping a month ago. Wraps are 30 bucks shipped via FedEx. NOSS reed spacers**SOLD** Thanks, Justin... Wraps: **Sold pending payment**

call a builder. Magic is more money... Call Jeff @ FAST (do a search here) Jim @ Passion, Kim @ K&T. I'll gaurentee any of those guys can beat Magic Racing!

Hey...Quint. I just browsed to this...sorry. What's your elevation? I beat the tar out of my bike all last year, it's a 96. It had the original top end... My quad needed 3 to 5 kicks when cold, w/ or w/o choke to start. I had about 110PSI in mine. Warmed up, started first kick. Ran great too. But...the bottom line as it was about due for a rebuild. The only other thing I would check, if you haven't already...is to make sure you didn't swap float bowls... One had the tube for the fuel enrichment circuit, the other doesn't. Good luck!!!

Yep...finally got to ride one with a 2 into 1 and shaved head...it was pretty fun. However, your handle is silverlakeshee... 2 into one is not a great idea for the dunes...you'll be short shifting all day long in the dunes... Food for thought...

Shearers....period. I don't know what 4snow tires are...sorry... And you'll need to have your stock rear shock resprung when you go +4 over...there's that much more leverage on the shock, it'll be real soft causing the front end to come up more...and you'll loose out of the hole a bit with it sagging that much...

To be honest, for MX tracks you bought the wrong bike. Any of the 450s would have been a better choice. To answer your question...You'll want a bottom-mid pipe and a 1 into 2 carb setup. If you plan on doing MX...forget about anything (other than pipes)...get the suspension done first. Having all that power in the motor ain't gonna mean squat when the guys ripping by you are down 10 HP but have 10X better suspension. Revalved rear...at least some works up front. Elkas are pricey, but good stuff. Probably a wider rear axle, and +2 +1 A Arms as well.