dajogejr

That's what I'd suggest. maybe even leaning out the needle one clip, or one towards the blunt end. They only way you'd be lean at 5000 feet with 300 mains is if you have an air leak...or had one helluva drag port and drag pipe setup!!

340 mains to start (may need leaner) Needle in middle clip. stock or 27.5 pilots, 1.0 to 2.0 turns out. To be honest, with +4 timing and 22cc domes, you're wasting your money on AV gas. Unless you can get AV gas cheaper than premium pump gas...then I'd see buying it. You don't have enough compression or timing to warrant anything higher than 92 octane... T5's and no airbox are very, very common mods. I'd bet you could've done a search on here and found your answer in 5 minutes or less... Good luck.

Head over to PlanetSand (I've seen you on there) and search for cubs, plating, issues, etc. There are quite a few of them on there, including the post you had with it leaking coolant into the cylinders, if I remember correctly. I'm not bashing the cubs. I finally got mine running this past weekend. Cost me a bit more than I anticipated...but I'm very happy with it. But...the more I've read, there are problems popping up here and there. The problems are not with the cylinders themselves...rather the nikasil plating and sandblast finishing from Millenium. badassbanshee479 has been having issues with his lately, he put it on alky...and the nikasil is starting to flake off he said.... I hate to be a downer, and it could be nothing...but, for the cost of a head gasket or Orings and some coolant, I'd be checking...that's for sure...

That's what I run. With lead in the race gas and 40:1...I know I'm good to go.

You should be rich at that elevation... Are you doing a plug chop properly? Hate to say it...but, you might want to pull the head off. A lot of Cubs are having an issue with the nikasil starting to flake off... You really need to do a plug chop for your jetting...but, gray on the plug is not a good thing...trust me.

Yeah...check the jetting forum... A wild guess would be go up (richer) 4 sizes on the main...and check your plugs. 1 main size per 25 degrees is about average...again, give or take.

To each is own... Since outerwears became available, they deflect most of the dirt that gets thrown towards the air filters. However...water, you're out of luck...

DO NOT BUY A BOOST BOTTLE. Do a search for boost bottle on here...you'll find 99% of the users here will steer you clear of it. Spend that 20 or 30 bucks on a chrome gas cap...it will be more functional than that boost bottle. More harm than good actually comes from putting one on. It weakens and stresses out the intakes, can cause (and has caused) ripped, cracked intakes and creates an air leak. If you are STUCK on getting one (hopfully, you'll be persueded not to) I have one I will GIVE you if you pay 6 bucks for shipping. I will have to find a new paperweight...but, I'll manage somehow...

You're at a pretty good elevation, last I remember wood. What octane you running? What elevation? What about your compression and timing...where they at?

Once you remove the airbox...NO air filter is good for water and puddles. Foam doesn't hold up much better...and, it absorbs the water. I guess that's better than passing it right through to the carbs... You're gonna wanna steer 100% clear of water and puddles once you go no airbox. I'm taking into consideration from your sig you only have FMF pipes and are about to remove the air box. We got your elevation, but not temps. I'll assume you ride in 60 to 90 degrees... Here's where you'll end up with Jetting: Mains: 320 to 340 Pilot 27.5 Air screw 1.0 to 2.0 turns out....

Is that based on the LT450 in anyway? Those LTs are nice, once you pipe it, airbox mod and put a cherry bomb on 'em....and larger rear tires, of course...

Called dibs on my NOSS Spacers, paid right away, quick communication.... Good buyer.

That is a steal...free bump. I paid that for my 35's and UPP intakes...(actually, a little more) and the UPP are junk compared to the BOSS Racing... Good luck!

Even guys with alky on high hp motors, (120 and up) don't run boost bottles... They normally plug the holes, or buy manifolds with out them. My UPP intakes came with the holes, so...I just use the stock crossover tube...

D'oh...easy to overlook the easy ones, eh? Yeah..make sure it's not the all common banshee kickstarter rattle. Start it up for a BRIEF SECOND, and hold your kick starter. IF it goes away...go ride...if not, shut it off IMMEDIATELY. I was thinking along the same lines...but didn't want to scare him...it could very well be bore, crank rebuild, top end...etc. time...but, best to start looking first. He could've broken a clutch spring, plate, etc. Hopfully something simple and cheap. But...an air leak is never, ever a good thing!!

I guess the real questions are: How much HP do you want? $$ = HP. How much time you got to wait? Do you plan on racing organized events, and if so...do they have class size limits, restrictions, etc. That can play a role, too...

Since he mentioned the TORS removal, Wes...I assuming he's got stockers. Wes is right, find a rubber hose with the same OD as the spring's ID...or something like wooden dowel, etc. that just makes it easier. very carefully, and very slowly, remove a little of the metal off the outer edges of the spring. Then, again, carefully and slowly, use a fine wire brush or scothbrite pad to smooth this work out...you don't wanna snag the springs on the slide or carb. You should never clip the springs. This will make it easy to pull intially...but harder after 1/2 throttle or so...

One bolt from the reed cage is missing...and you want good news? Ok...I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night... Seriously, not good. test compression... pull the head off, pull the right side cover off, start inspecting.

Yeah, I think it only takes 5 or 6 turns to remove 'em...

No prob! Thank RNBrad, he hooked me up with the link ON my cubs, my T5 pipes laid on the outerwear and filter...even after I strapped it to the frame. With these new RDZ pipes...it sure is nice. The pipes are up and away from the carbs, fuel line, air filters and outerwears... RDZ and Matt Shearer did something right...that's for sure!!! It's Ironic...the picture of the heat wraps on the stinger tubes is actually on a Shearer or RDZ pipe... :shoothead: Will let you know if it falls though...this guy seemed like a real nice guy though, and honest. So...I'm pretty confident they're gone.

If you're running straight race fuel...I'd put it at +8. Banshees love timing. many people will tell you to go to 7 or 8 max, but I have my cub set at +8 on the plate, plus a few more degrees on my dyna....it flat out gets it.

Heat Wraps sold pending payment...

Mikuni Mains are pretty much the same. The pilots, however...are very different. When you order, make sure they know they are 26mm banshee stock carbs. The pilots in those carbs are a little longer than standard Mikuni Pilots.

Jet kits are a waste of money, period. pilots rarely change...use the air screw to fine tune. Main jets change with mods, temps, elevation, etc. Buy just the jets you need from carbparts.com, sudco.com or magicracing.com, or...if they have 'em and the price is fair...your local stealership...

You have a few choices... A new CDI from RS is about 125...>I think, not 100% sure. New CDI from the dealer is expensive as hell...like 300 or 400 bucks. A new Dyna ignition can be had for less than 300. Ricky Stator flywheel is 125... Good luck. I just replaced my coil, stator, flywheel and CDI within the last month! I'd send you my CDI to test...but my 96 wiring is different...