dajogejr

I've stripped all my wiring on mine. I have a metal on/off toggle and that's it. then again, I'm without lights, etc. I will get a tether hooked up one of these days... Anyways... You better wait till that wife is out of nursing school and IN practice a few years before you build a cub. Whatever you think it's gonna cost you, double it!!! Makes me sick to think how much I've spent this year... And I found a local guy to me, great guy, who could've built me a 10mil cub motor on Alky for about the same amount of money... OH well, next year...

Good question. It'll be a lot less than if you rode in dirt/mud. Mud ruins polished parts after a ride... RNBrad has more bling on his quad and he's a big time duner...might want to ask him how he keeps his shit so purty.... Big Boy Banshee has a lot of chrome and polish too, but...I think he's more into street. Not 100% sure on that one.... I'm gonna stay away from the bling factor...I like the idea of a plain Jane looking sleeper. Hell...I might paint my cubs black one of these days... :beer:

Very true...it's easy to forget the little things. That baby should start 1 kick everytime. Let him fix it, I'm sure it's simple...

Wes won't steer you wrong! Ah...don't worry bout it. Just paint it, no biggie. Or...spend some time and elbow grease and polish that linkage...it'll look good!!!

I can fully understand the $$ thing, this is not a cheap sport. I just feel Pipes first, porting and then the carbs. They all compliment each other.... Here's what you can do... Loosen the L Bracket shaped hold down first. Loosen the carb caps. Tighten them snug by hand, do NOT use a pair of channel locks... Tighten down with the hold down bracket. Now...sync them up using the 8mm sleeve and 10mm locknut. Loosen the lock nut, turn the adjusters up or down so both slides open the same time. If this seems a bit beyond you...have the mechanic do it. However...if this was just built by him, and the carb caps weren't tight...I'd think twice before taking it back to him once it's fixed this time!

A trusted shop let you put two different oversize pistons in your bike? I hope you typed that wrong, I fear you didn't. You are headed for problems, gaurenteeed. I'm sure it'll run ok for a while...but, that's just bad practice. Would you tie one shoe only half way up? Put the tires on the left side of your car at 35PSI and the right side at 30PSI? At least they're new pistons, right? I mean...he didn't use the old .080 over piston but give you a new .090 over, did he? That's just bad news...period. Like I said...I'm sure it'll run for a while, but you're headed for headaches....

I'm not a shock expert...but, yes, you do. Valving in a shock and spring tesion are two separate and different things. Someone here jump in and correct me if I'm way off, but valving controls how the shock compresses and retracts...the spring basically supports the weight and helps the valving. I know thats' a loose interpretation...but, yes...you will have to get a stiffer spring along with getting the valving changed for your type of riding, weight, etc....

Good eye. It does say Keihin Style.... Call a builder here, or look for a set of REAL Keihin carbs. Kehin or Mikunis will be just fine. What's more important is what size...and that's based on your mods or future plans for mods. I wouldn't trust the jetting on any "Pre-Jetted" carb. I'd do some serious research on some forums, find a few members who have similar mods to you, and ride in similar temps and elevation...and gauge your starting point from there.... No one can ever tell you the exact jetting you'll need. But...there are plenty that can get you close enough to start.

That is not a brace. It's called linkage. It allows for longer travel and changes the geometry of the suspension. When you buy a swingarm, just ask if it's a linkless or link suspension. If they can't answer that question, buy it from someone that can. Now...the next point to ponder. Once you go more than +2...you're gonna need at the least a stiffer spring, or a revalve/rebuild. Longer arms put more leverage on the shock, causing it to be softer than warm butter. If you get a linkless rear swinger, you'll really need to go stiff on the spring....

What darelick put that bike together? Stock carbs, drag porting and T6 pipes? Talk about your mismatches.... Anyways...if he's gonna pay for it, which he sure as shit doesn't have to do, get r done, whether it's ready in time or not. There will always be another weekend to ride. Save your money...let him pick up the tab. I'd bet it's got dirt in the carb, he tightened the carb cap too tight, or it's got a bent needle. Let the mechanic fix it...and be done with it... That mechanic will never be able to tell you with any certainty when it'll be done without having it in the shop. But...once he tears into it...he should be able to. Chances are...if he can't get it done in time, you won't be able to either. Predaturds are slow, period. They look kinda nice, and can be made quick...but not fast. They are a great trail bike, just heavy and slow.

Pump gas all daylong... Just make sure your jetting is good to go.

You're asking a very personal opinion question...no right answer. That's like asking us what color car to buy based on who may buy it next. You get what YOU like...period. The guy that's gonna buy it next isn't riding it right now, YOU are... Frames can be painted, plastics can be bought. When I look at a bike, I look at how well it was maintained, aftermarket goodies in it, etc. Unless you're going fucha and powder blue plastics (Raptor plastics at that... )...get what makes you happy.

Take the pistons and rings to a machine shop, have the piston to bore clearance measures, and have the ring end gap measured. Here's my take. If you're gonna get rings, it'll cost about 25 bucks per side. A complete piston kit with gaskets is 159 or so. If they're in pretty good shape, and within spec...I'd hone the cylinders and put a fresh top end on. I'm just not a big fan of replacing rings only...and if you do, you still should have the jugs honed...

Shit...second mortgage anyone??? :beer: :yelrotflmao: J/K... Family First, wait...I don't have one. Ok, house and bills first...then play toys...

No prob. Not trying to sound like a jerk...rather save you some headaches and be safe!! Good luck!

How much wood can a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? Way too open of a question. You can make over 100HP on a stock bore/stock stroke with the right porting, alky, setup, etc. How long will it run? Probably not long.... Here is the most basic equasion....: $$$ = HP. Here's another: More HP = Less reliability First, once you start pushing ponies, the stock crank should be welded, period for reliability. With a good port job, pipes, carbs...etc., you can have a pretty reliable 65HP banshee all day long. The further you push the envelope, the quicker shit breaks, period. You're taking a bike made to run at 35HP or so from the factory, and guys often double and triple that number with a lot of $$...

I got to throw my .02 in here.... (Sorry...bored at work)... There are plenty of schools of thought for break in. I never run more oil than I plan to run day to day. I start it up, heat cycle it 2 or 3 times, retourque everything, and beat the piss out of it. I run 40:1 day in, day out. I don't belong to that school of thought more oil to break it in, no more than half throttle...no wide open for so long... You can remove all the crap now or later, it doesn't matter either way. What does matter is to have the correct jetting installed once you do get pipes, air filters, porting...whatever. I also disagree with some of this above. A NOSS head with smaller domes is a great mod for a stock or highly modded engine. The bump in compression is noticeable all around. However...you need to make sure you're comfortable with running a mix of race/pump gas, or race gas by itself. Normally...22cc (stock) domes are fine with pump gas, as are 21cc. After that, you need to check compression to see where you fall. VForce reeds aren't a good bang for the buck on a stock motor... Once you buy pipes, air filter and air box mods and get porting, they really start to shine. Don't forget about the cheap and easy to do mods, too. Shave the flywheel and get an advanced timing plate. Both are cheap and noticeable as well...and they're half the price of reed cages. You do understand that CPIs are a drag style pipe, right? If you're gonna port it, etc., good choice. If you just gonna drag race, run wide open roads and dune it, good choice. They would not be my first choice for trail riding....or farting around, though. What type of riding is your 50 year old dad gonna do? Going from a power everywhere dirtbike to a top end screamer like a 'shee is a whole new animal. I'd pick T5s or FMF SST's over CPIs...unless he's ready to go screaming....

Evaporate? more than unlikely. At least stick a rag down there and fish around. Blow some compressed air in there...just to be sure. for 20 bucks, get new ORings, and use just a hair of hi temp RTV on them to hold 'em and seal 'em. The coolant hose fitting in the back of the head where it attached leaked on mine out of the box, and it was tight. I took it off...little RTV, and good to go.

I've read more often than not, the 2's perform a tad bit better. I'd leave them in there. If you go to buy new reeds and they don't have them (which, won't be for a long time, think about how long 2's have been out) then go for the 3's.

If you're jetted correctly...you lessen the chance. Bottom line, it is not designed to be held WOT for that long of a period of time. where the heck are you riding to hold it open that long, the salt flats? You would need a mile or so before that is even a thought.... If you have that much room, change your gearing so the motor doesn't have to rev as far to go as fast...

Look up DaveMooreracing.com Dave Moore is the shit...and his flywheel shaving is only 35 bucks plus shipping, last I checked. http://www.davemooreracing.com/flywheel_mod.html

Word... for that much you can have a dunable override AND a lockup clutch damn near....and it'll be easier to pull and shift 10 times better...

Oh boy... Your best bet is to take the top end off, stick a syringe with a tube down past the crank into the cases, and suck whatever you can out. I just went through this. Crank rusted a little (bearings were fine) and it popped a crank seal. Next time with that head, use a thin bit of high temp RTV sealant on each of the rings. It helps seal, as well as helps keep them in place when putting it all together... If you've got fluid in the pipe and cylinder, I'd bet my money it worked it's way down into the crankcase as well. Your crank bearings and pistons are probably fine. It takes more time to remove the engine, split the cases and replace crank seals than it does to do a top end, though... Your best bet is take the top end off and get whatever fluid is in there out....better safe than sorry.

For the 20 bucks it cost to repack 'em...I'd do that and see if they pass. FMF used to make ISDE silencers...not sure if they fit up, but those are probably about the quietest you're gonna find.

Makes perfect sense....good for you. With my timing and compression I run...AV wouldn't be enough for me... Have fun.