dajogejr

What needles, what pilots and where is your air screw at?

17cc domes are gonna hurt you a tad on the top end...that's a lot of compression. 114 is fine. I run 40:1, personal preference with leaded race gas. With drag porting, yes...T5s and stock carbs are holding you back without a doubt. I'm sure it's very responsive...but you're missing out on power on top end, which...is where you're at 99% of the time for drag racing.

Get some Shearer/RDZ inframes...and you'll stay out in front. Dynos are nice for trying different mods, dialing it, etc., but that number ends there. A 70 HP bike can beat a 100HP bike with the right rider, setup, etc. 10 row with a +10 is more like it...gotcha... See if your rich on top. Have you checked your compression yet? What kind of plugs you running, and what's your gap at?

410 could be rich...but it's drag porting. Removing the packing won't help...may hurt. You probably have too much paddle for your bike, especially if you're on a stock swingarm... Stock carbs, T5 pipes and drag porting probably won't pull those tires. Put about 2 or 3 more PSI in the, see if that helps the top end, albeit at the loss of a little out of the hole. Do a plug chop to see if your rich with those mains. If it's rich, it won't pull as good on the big end, either...

Don't ask us...ask your wallet. And...if you're gonna do a dune/dirt bike build a 421 Cub. It is the best bang for the buck, period. Sure, you can go a bit faster with the 7 and 10 mil, but...the price is WAY more, the cranks are twice as much for the little gains you get....

Those carbs really are to big for a stock port motor... But if it's that bad off idle, try smaller pilots. That might help a bit. I'd drop the pilot one size, and play with the air screws...see if you can tune it out. Keep in mind, with a bigger carb, it will not be as responsive as a smaller carb. I still think your pilot is big, but...it's the nature of the beast...

I run CELs in my 4 mil cub. They seem to be the favorite choice, unless you're WAY up there like Big Red....

Somewhere on here...or another forum, is a post about Wiseco A, B and C pistons. Now, I can see if this was the case, but it's not. If he already bored out one of them to .090...why not the other too? I don't get it.

Fine, fine...I'll throw in my girl too, but I have to warn you. She whines more than a tranny getting ready to go and a turbo spooling up... Ya know, you could always turn that thing into a purge bottle if you go alky...just a thought...

All depends on what kind of swinger you get. If my rear shock was up to snuff, I'd have no qualms about jumping it. Not much of a jumper myself, though. If you really think about it...once you start getting into high HP motors, you're flying around dunes and drag racing most of the time I'd say. How much do you plan on jumping it? Drag swingers are light, and not meant to jump. I have a steel yamie style carrier swinger, and it's every bit as strong (and heavy) as a stocker... Planning on a +8 or +10 roundhouse style one of these days. It's on "the list"...

When's the next clarksville run

You know...on second thought, you seem like one of those know it all kind of guys. I'm glad your the reed expert... I wouldn't let you touch my engine though... You probably forget to tighten main jets and silly shit like that.... :yelrotflmao: Damn...E. You had me going for sure.... :beer:

Got any dyno sheets? I'm not doubting you...just curious to see 'em...that's all...

Double the price of the motor parts. There's a good thread on here about the cost of a cub...you're not buying just the engine. You have gearing, swingarm, tires, chain, clutch, carbs, pipes.... It adds up quick. Don't kid yourself, you can work 100 hours a week on the sales floor, her raising the kids is a harder job than you'll ever have! Not trying to put you down...but, it is the truth!!

I don't see any prices on their site...do you happen to know how much their 4 mil cranks are? I know with maxload PTO bearing and a good reweld, a hot rod will cost about 600 bucks total. Is Crankworks comparable in price?

Do you have any back to back dyno sheets to back that up? Not trying to be a smart ass...I'm actually being serious. If 2's made 2-4 horse more on a dyno, Moto-Tassinari should fire thier entire R&D and engineering group.... That's going backwards...and a considerable amount of ponies...

I have two headlights off my 96, in a box in the garage. One needs a bulb (low beam was out) and the plastic "gaurd" is about 1/4 missing. If you're interested, PM me. I'll send you all the pics you want... 20 bucks, shipped. I also have stock bars...we can combo a deal. I've been cleaning out the garage lately...let me know. I can send as many pics as you can stomach!!

I've got a 4 stroke piston sitting on my desk as a paper weight, it'd be an even up trade. You can even use the piston as an ash tray... Careful Chase doesn't catch wind of this, he'll use that boost bottle as a bong...

For 1500...you could probably get a cleaned up stoke stroke, stock bore cub, NOSS head, and fresh top end. That would leave you with a few hundred to pay someone to put it together. I'd bet a stock cub motor will put up the same numbers as a 400 alba kit.... You're limiting yourself with stock carbs and T5 pipes. I'm speaking from experience.... I first built my 4 mil cub with stockers and T5s.... Now, as you can see in my sig, I'm with 35's and RDZ pipes...

Start with a 150 or 200 grit sandpaper, keep working your way down until you get to about 1000 grit, and use water, too. When it's smooth as can be, then use some buffing compound and a buffing wheel.... Prepare to be "blinged"...

I second that. Also....make sure to have a reputable builder reweld that crank. Factory "welded" cranks from wiseco have been known to still have problems. Jeff @ FAST racing, Jim @ Passion, Redline, A&S, K&T...there are a ton that do it.

Rocky Mountain ATV, Magic Racing (2.00 a piece) and probably a local stealership. Be sure to use a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gaskets for a good seal.

You guys should head over to planetsand.com to get answers to these types of question. No offense to Lee or the brothers and sisters here on the site, but those folks over there are more hard core drag racers, and have a lot more technical knowledge about NOS, turbos, Alky, etc. While I'd say the average memeber here is a piped and jetted banshee, over there the average is probably a big bore stroked banshee... While I love the HQ and it's members, PS is a wealth of technical info, especially 2 strokes. Yes, they are very "clicky" and the site has a bad habit of deleting posts that offend the "buddies", site sponsors, etc.,.... THere's still a ton of info there.

Don't you children have pokemon cards to trade, followed by a day watching nickelodeon and sponge Bob square pants reruns??? When you're old enough to drive a car, then you can comment on a car thread. You guys are like 12...right? You must be, because talking tough by typing on a keyboard isn't impressing anyone. Why don't you guys head over to www.boysandgirlsclub.com and rant over there.... ::

Dealt with each of these three gentlemen in the last week. Sold my fugly but solid Chrome T5's to Fastcar, met him in person yesterday and picked them up, cool cat. Thanks for doing business!!! The almighty boost bottle to 370...for shipping costs only.... Quick paypal, thanks. The heat sleeves for Josh (Jbooker) and he promptly paid as promised, quick paypal, thanks as well. I appreiate doing business with all of you....thank you much....