dajogejr

Yeah, we've been trading PMs back and forth for some time. Maybe a member in your area can help out....it's gotta be something. That pressure test didn't drop at all? normally...they'll drop a 1lb or so every minute or so... Have you tried bumping the clip down one or two spots towards the pointed end to richen it up. You say if you pull the chokes, it goes away...so, maybe it needs more gas from the needle....

It's something else...it should run like dog shit with the slides reversed.... I have an extra throttle cable that may or may not be in better shape than yours. I also have an extra carb cap and I don't remember if the oring is still there. You really need to get a TORS removal kit, Dale. Not only does it make for a bit easier pull, it remove ALL that crap and makes things a TON easier to work on with that extra space. Offer stands, you can probably get the whole kit from Magic or Vitos' to remove that crap... I'll be 'round pretty much all weekend, if I don't melt.

You may pull that gear...but it's gonna take a while. You're not going to beat a piped YFZ450 with your stock bike, period, unless the guy on the 4 poke weighs 400 pounds and can't ride. Stock vs. stock, the 650 and 450 are going to beat you. Raptor...maybe. If it's a new 700, it will too. For the minimal investment of pipes and a twin pod air filters, you'd make it a MUCH better race. I mentioned twin pod air filters (completely removing the airbox) because you said pavement. If you decide you wanna trail ride and drive through mud, leave the airbox, remove the lid and get a K&N with outerwear....

Compression has more to do with the need for race gas than timing, unless you're talking about a TON of timing, which you're not. The only way to know for sure if you need race gas is to use a quality compression tester and get a reading. Here's a BASELINE, so your milage may vary. Up to 150PSI should be ok for 92 or higher PUMP gas. 150 to 165 a mix of 50/50 165 and up...race gas. Now...timing throws this off just a little. So...this again, is just a BASELINE. If your motor starts knocking or pinging, you need to up the ante on octane... If it were me on the engine you have, I'd run 8 degrees of timing and straight 110 race gas to be safe!!

Did you get the pipes on? I know you're using the 4th down from the blunt end on the dynojet (Toomey) needles, what main jet did you end up using on both? Did you remove the TORS yet, Dale? Do you have the choke tube in place between carbs? Did you accidentally swap carb bowls? Did you remove the pilot jet and clean the bejezus out of the carbs and pilots? Have you looked at the reeds? Like I offered before, if you wanna bring it by the house, I'll be happy to tune it up for you! His temps now are 80's to 90's...it's damn hot here!! Elevation is 0 to 1000 feet. When he picked up the pipes from me, he mentioned he got the Toomey jet kit, which comes with the longer and more tapered needles (to remove the lean spot in the middle) 270 and 280 main jets. I told him to use the 280s to be safe...there's really not much difference from 270 to 280.... Have you checked all your connections for the TORS? Let me know if you'd like some help, I've done many a stock carb tuning for these beasts.

I would use this::

Um...isn't that kinda what he just said?? The nice thing about the cubs is supposed bolt on for everything. Cheetahs you'd need different reed cages to start, not sure what else. I'm not sure if all exhaust pipes clear the powervalves, etc. having some bottom end would be nice....

Dude...you're in Kalamazoo.... You're an hour or so from Silver Lake MI dunes. How much better can you get than that... If you wanna ride some good trails, head up by Cadillac to the peacock trail system. That's not too far of a drive for you...those trails are excellent. Nice, open, 4th and 5th gear trails....

It's all about personal preference. I can't tell you to use the benoil anymore than I can tell you to buy a dodge, chevy or ford. Now....let's not turn this into a "what type of oil should I run" thread...There's already a ton of those out there.

Sorry...I'm not rich...(anymore... :yelrotflmao: ) Seriously...I just had powerjets put on mine, can't wait to tune 'em in...

Naw...just get dial a jets....works even better...

Shit...I know that...but he's kinda new to us here... Dale just bought my T5's...nice guy... It's all good! :beer:

The pilot jets are directly in front of the Main jet. You'll need a small flat blade screwdriver to remove them. You sync the carbs by removing the air filter(s) and moving the thumb throttle. There's a 10mm locknut and 8mm nut/sleeve on top of the carb caps. You loosed the lock nuts...and adjust the sleeves until both slides move at the same time. Tighten them down, check 'em again.

Yeah...I think they delivered the wrong quad. You wouldn't take a vette or Mustang GT out in the mud would ya? (OK...OK...maybe if it was a friends, and you were drinking...and it was on a bet/dare... ) Same difference...

Drain the fuel, as you said...and clean the carbs. Benol is good stuff...but will gum up good if left sitting. Make sure you actually remove the pilot jets, and use a speaker wire to clean them out, blow ALL the holes out, too. If you're gonna go through all that trouble, remove the TORS while you're at it. Just one more failure point. Also...use a thin layer of RTV (orange hi temp) when putting the reeds back on...they need to seal properly... Good luck!!

TORS still on the bike (the big thingy's on top of your carbs with knobs to tune the idle?) Threaded hole? Do both carbs have that steel/brass L shaped bracket on them holding the carb caps tight? If so...that threaded hole is fine. Leave it. There's nothing there. When you replaced the mains, did you check to make sure both slides were in sync with each other? That can cause it run like shit until you're wide open on both of them. Fresh gas and oil? Fresh plugs? How much oil to gas you using? You mentioned not riding it much in the winter. You did drain all the gas out and put fresh gas in, right?? Could be something that simple... Also could be plugged up pilot jets or pilot circuits...too.

Be nice...Red... He just bought my T5's...helluva nice guy. He's having a hard time getting those pipes on, so...I offered to help him with that, jetting and TORS removal if he'd like.... I'm a 45 minute drive for him. Bansh...very good point. They can get in the way as well!!!

I think we covered the tips for those pipes, Dale.... I had a bear of a time, and I even put the bike on the grab bar to put 'em on. Then...I got smart...as I PM'd ya...I put just a bit of grease on the Orings, and they slid right on. Those babies came off no problems with my stock motor, and no issues at all with my cub, too... I know they're a pain sometimes, but...if you get stuck, bring 'em back to my garage, and I'll put 'em on, jet your carbs and sync them up for you too... Hell, if you wanna pick up a TORS removal kit, I'll take care of that for you as well. I have the tap and drill, you'll need the new carb caps, brass screws and locknuts, and new cable. I have a cable, but...wouldn't trust it other than for a backup.... Hung Over? Sounds like you might have had too much fun at that concert. Hung over in 90 degree plus heat is not the best time to work on your shit...trust me on that one!!!

I made something similar...my T5 were all over my brand new K&N's and outer wears I just got from jeff @ FAST. Then, I bought heat wraps from cascade. Then....I bought RDZ inframes, which IMO have the best clearance of all inframes by design...so, the tubes and heat shields weren't needed anymore. Cost about 15 bucks at Home Depot....never used 'em... Rubber to seal, plastic insert so the filters could "bite" on the tubes...

Sure does, Dale. My buddy, about 4 or 5 years ago...took his BONE STOCK banshee to the 1/4 mile at Ubley... 74.5 MPH with the front fenders on. 77.6 with the front fenders off... I think it shaved about .2 or .3 off... I just remember it was a hair over 3MPH. The REAL reason people shave their fenders off is for MX. Riders want to be able to see what their front tires are hitting and how they are tracking. That being said... I gotta admit, I like the look too! You saw mine the other day, shaved front and rear. If you're gonna get Muddy...the shee is the wrong animal...that's what 4 strokes and ute's are for. HUGE fenders, floorboards instead of footpegs, and a little friend called 4 wheel drive... Not to mention, real ground clearance...

ANY two stroke oil will separate from alky...nature of the beast. Benoil and 927 seem to stay mixed the best...for the longest. That being said...that distinctive smell of Benoil...mmmm... You'll be fine.

I've got a 5.5 gallon, sitting in my garage...it's ugly and painted blue...but, could be painted again. Bought it off a fellow member, then decided to make mine a dune/drag only bike and I'll never be too far away from camp or gas. interested? PM Me...

1st, WOT is all main. 2nd. Conventional wisdeom and Wes's own experience would tell you that main is too small.. However, porting can pull more fuel out of a smaller jet... Porting is just that. Pulling more fuel/air efficiently and getting it out more efficiently. I agree...put the 150 in. warm it up with old plugs. PUt the new ones in, and do a 1-5 (6th if you have enough room) WOT ride. HOld the throttle open, hit the kill switch. PUll the plugs, but the old back in. Are you actually cutting these plugs, or just kinda looking? The insulator can take a while to color, and it's a good rough guide...but the 2mm tan ring is what you need to see... If you did a WOT run and plug chop correctly, and the 138's still had that nice, tan ring along the bottom of the insulator, you're good to go.

Nice link to to Duncan's site. There is another on top of these forums, BenBB's jetting guide. That linke is Keihin specific, but they all perform the same basic function, uless you're talking Lectrons... :beer:

C'mon Red....you just don't wanna see dyno numbers cause you're at 7500 feet.. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Yeah, I agree. It's nice to see what works and what doesn't...but, bottom line it's the rider 90% of the time.