dajogejr

How the drum is cut and spring placement, as said. No one is going to give you a blueprint on how to do it yourself, that's taking money out of their pockets...fact of life.

Get a wheelie bar. If you're serious about hitting the track, you won't gain any time normally with a bar, but you will be able to be consistent. And strut the back end when you go with the wheelie bar...trust me on that one. I'm a big guy (Probably 2 or 3 of you) but I had a Marvin nearly pogo me off the bike and it was at 1500 or 1600 PSI.

Keep an eye out on CL for your shit... What a bunch of dickbags...can't fucking stand thieves... It'd be worth catching one just for the ensuing beating... I guess better your gear than your bikes...but it still sucks any way you slice it. Hope you catch the spineless fucks.

I don't know what they put in the filter cleaner bottle for K&N Air filters...but it works awesome on everything...period.

I've run from the cops in the past, I was young and stupid... I'm no angel. But...if you run from the cops and they catch up with you, you can't come on a forum and complain/whine about it and expect to get any sympathy. Sometimes, it takes a well deserved ass beating...we've all gotten them at one time or another, from our parents, other kids/adults, etc. If you break the law, you pay the price. The problem is...when you break the law and run, the cops get that much more itchy for the next guy thinking they're going to run too. You don't hear about safe riders, law abiding riders, etc. on the news. You see/hear about the bad ones. So all I can say is think about your brothers and sisters that like to ride. Don't ruin it for them. I hear you 100% on not having leagal riding areas...I've seen them shrink from next to nothing to damn near nothing...

Yep. It's called an impact driver. You literally hit it with a hammer and twist. It's a life saver on Jap motors with frozen phillips or slotted head bolts. Use it right, it works every time!

300 ft when I raced with him...sand drags. At Ionia and Bob's

Correction... 66.50 mm is the largest, which is .100 over...the max for a stock set. I'm telling you...after .080 those water jacket walls are pretty thin.. 64.00 mm is stock, figure each .010 over is .25 mm. Each .010 over (or .25mm) gives you 2-3cc's, depending on the rounding factor..

I get a longer spring, grease the hell out of it and smash two orings on top of each other. I don't get any rattles...

What we all commonly refer to as "pumper" carbs are the snowmobile 39PWK carbs that require a fuel pump. They're dirt cheap and are a favorite for the methanol burning drag race crowd. What you're talking about are the ones that have a pulse/diaphram in them, just like you see in chain saws and weedeaters... The jets are the same, but the needle and seat on a PWK pumper carb are very different than that of a gravity fed PWK. They use a pump, you are right, because of the location of the gas tank not being directly above it. That being said, they have a much smaller needle and seat...or else the pressure from the fuel pump would overflow and flood the carbs. You're talking apples, we're talking oranges!

Start out with 15/44 and launch in second. You want to be at WOT and the end of 5th gear through the traps. You don't need 1st or 6th on a banshee in 300 feet. If you're hitting 6th gear...you're losing time. 9 paddles shouldn't be too much for your bike... You very well might be running out of fuel at the end. What is your fuel system/setup? Stock fuel valve?

Without knowing this guy's complete setup, I wouldn't recommend anything over .015 or .020. I've seen stock heads from 22cc to 24cc...uncut, unchanged. That's a factory variance and it's a lot. You didn't mention your elevation, what octane fuel you have access to, the temps you ride in, if it's ported, stock crank, stroker crank, etc. I'm sure plenty of people have run .030 shaved heads on pump gas...I'm sure plenty others have blown a motor up. You really need to check the squish band and taper before you even take the head off...and make an estimated guess where you'll end up with a shaved head. I wouldn't want any less than .042 clearance to run pump gas... Also, is your timing stock? Compression ratio dictates the need for octane mainly, timing in reasonable amounts dictates octane need secondarily.

I agree with Radar... With a lockup, NO reason at all it should slip with a 7 disc setup unless the adjustment is off on the clutch. I'm going to assume you have a pancake bearing otherwise known as the "pusher" mod. If that is out of adjustment...you'll have issues. Unless that bike has NOS and a Turbo/Supercharger on it, you should be fine with a 7 plate setup and lockup, properly adjusted.

If the 310 is done right, tuned right and rode right, it's going to be a handful for you. It weighs less and makes power differently...keep that in mind.

Alex... If you are going to run pumper carbs on gas without a pump, you might be able to get away with it. I personally would run a pump with pumper carbs whether it's for methanol or gas. The needle and seat, as said...is considerably smaller. While I understand someone might get a set of these to work for them without a pump, it's not something I'd chance my motor on, ESPECIALLY on alky. You need to flow twice as much fuel through the carb for methanol. You can richen up the jetting all you want, but if there's not enough fuel in the bowl, it makes no difference. I see Pumper PWKs on Ebay all the time, they are factory stock on 700 Polaris and I"m sure a few others. I've seen them go for 70 to 125 bucks. Normally they have the choke block offs. You just buy the plug for the bottom of the carb bowl and be prepared to drill out the main jet and dump tube.

Its supposed to be in the mid 70s this weekend, it'll be a good time to test ride at regular temps. Yesterday's weather sucked ass...just rainy and cold all day. At least MSU pulled off the upset in NCAA basketball, that's about all we had to look forward to yesterday. Free reving the bike isn't going to tell you too much as far as needle clip position and main jet size. There's no load on the motor. I'd say use the 320s to start, they'll be safely rich with a stock airbox. Spinning the tires isn't putting a good load on the motor either. Get 3 or 4 sets of spark plugs and get ready for a few rips this weekend!

I read over the part of you having an air box with the lid cut, my fault. 280 to 320 is where you're going to end up. I still think your carbs need to be sync'd better or there's dirt/debris in the carbs you have.

25 to 30 pilots is a BIG jump in stock carbs. Even with pods, I'd bet one turn out on the air screws and 27.5 pilots would be fine. Also make sure your carbs are sync'd. If they're not in sync, it'll cause it to run like crap off the bottom.

Untrue. I had this on my 4 mil cub motor with NO lockup and it didn't lunge. I had it adjusted properly as well as a new clutch cable, not a stretched out one. The plates barely need any separation to engage/disengage. There is more than enough room even on a stock setup (basket/inner/outer hub) to run an extra steel and have it mesh properly. However... With our mods, I truly feel you don't need it, to be honest.

I totally understand where you're coming from...don't blame you. You simply can't please everyone. I can't say I've had 100% smooth sailings on all my transactions. I can say I tried my hardest to make everyone of them as right as I possibly could.

Well guys, don't know how to tell you this.... I've bought quite a few things off Ray, he lives 20 minutes or so away. Here's the deal. His family owns a farm and he buys banshees and parts them out. Dozens and dozens of them. Parts are organized in crates, boxes, etc. TONS of them. I've had a couple parts that weren't right, I took them back/talked to him about it and he made it right. Ray, flat out, is not a mechanical guy. He'll tell you that. While I agree it doesn't take a mechanic to know the different between a good tail lens and a cracked one. Granted...I got that. He has a system for selling, boxing and shipping. That's why he doesn't offer multiple discounts. I've been over there and seen a bunch of parts already boxed up and ready to go once they're on the auction block. 3400 plus items sold in the last 12 months. 75 have negative or neutral. He's got roughly 25 per 1000 transactions and he's selling used parts. You simply can't make everyone happy. Does he sell some junk? Yep. Sure does. With all those parts going in and out he flat out does not put his hands on everyone. Here's the facts...you're not getting gold at tin foil prices. I'm 100% certain some of you have legitimate beefs....don't blame you...that's your call. I'm just trying to provide some insite on what goes on....and to say Ray's always been fair to me. I'm lucky enough to live close by to be able to go there and check shit out or inspect parts first (makes no sense to pay shipping instead of a 20 minute drive)... Wish you guys the best of luck...

What kind of bike do you have/what are your mods?

Some people run 2 steels side by side in the middle of the clutch pack, you get better grab. I did for a while until I switched lockups... That's what someone means by an extra steel or extra plate when they're talking about a stock clutch setup.

7 fiber 6 steel. Start and end with a fiber when installing.

NO prob! I wasn't trying to sound like an ass... A broken wheelie bar sometimes makes for a REAL GOOD video, as long as you're not the one riding it... Just don't want to see anyone get hurt!