dajogejr

Well...you made this easy then. No one is going to safely tell you what domes you can and can't run. So...buy a few pairs, test yourself, sell what you don't use. I just don't get it when you need to mix race gas and pump gas. Why...to save 15 bucks or so for a 5 gallon jug for a day's riding? If you're worried about saving that measly 15 bucks per 5 gallons, you're in the wrong sport...or have the wrong machine. :: :: After doing some math...I'm a little off. These are MI, Detroit area prices. 3.20 for premium, from 92 to 93 octane X 5 gallons = 16 4.99 for Race 110 Leaded, X 5 gallons is 24.95 Split the difference for 50/50 mix. = 20.50 So...you're telling me...that all this hub bub is worth a measly 4 and a half buck per 5 gallons. Say you go through 5 gallons every week. That is, if you ride every week. You'd save yourself roughly 230 bucks in a single year...to take that chance... Shit, 4.50 barely buys a set of spark plugs..... The only arguement you'd have is if you couldn't find race gas, or lived in an area to desolate or remote to get it. You are already mixing it 20%...which, may raise the octane 1 or 2 points... So, you have access to race gas. Again, this is the wrong sport, or make that bike, to penny pinch over this little stuff.

No way we can tell you that. Everyone ports different, you may ask the engine builder what they think. To be honest, I'd rather run straight race gas, one less thing to mix. Don't kid yourself, porting will only lower your PSI a few points, nothing earth shattering. Also...have you had your crank welded. I dont' trust the stocker to hold up to much more than 150 or so PSI for very long. 150PSI to 165 is USUALLY the gray valley you can get away with running mix of pump and race. Throw smaller domes in and advance the timing, why chance it? Run race gas!

Gotta use the dustcaps, they help seal in the grease as well. I admire you making your own...but, for less than 20 bucks, you could buy a set of Ebay as well!

It's called an impact driver... You're best bet...take it up to the local auto repair shop if you don't have access to a 1/2 inch impact air gun. They can zip it in 2 seconds. While they're at it, thread in the puller, have 'em zap that too. That nut is best put back on with impact, too.... You can play with the brakes, putting it in gear...and busting your ass. Or...you can do it the smart way. One quick braap....done.

Truly, I already answered this. Personal preference. Is it safe for your bike? Yes. As long as it's not Mazola or Crisco, and it's not mixed at 100:1...it'll be fine. Personally, it's a little thick for my taste. it's what you want with Alky, but ...oh, you can search on who uses what oil. No need to create another 40 page thread on who uses what and how much. YES...it's safe.

Kotin... Do you have a buy it now for those exhaust clamps? I'm looking at prettying up my pipes...those will do the trick... Also...your CDI lists as NEW, but the description says used 2003. Lastly, in your jets auction, you need to fix the pilot jet sizes...they're wrong. Not trying to bag on you at all...rather help you with the auction. Most of us will know what you mean...but, some noob looking on ebay might not!!

Oh no...believe me, you don't want it to be an air leak. I redid my motor twice, and that was enough. I paid a friend to redo it the next two times... No prob...wish I could help more!

If it's leaking, you'll start to see black soot in front of the connector...

Keep on saving. You're not just gonna buy cylinders. It's bigger carbs, better pipes, longer swingarm...and the list goes on. I thought I was gonna spend 2500 or so... I've spend almost double that.

Ok...you sync'd the slides as they're shut. Did you sit there and just barely push the throttle, to make sure they OPEN at the same time? That's more critical than the bottomed out or idle setting. ALWAYS change plugs after jetting and carb changes. I just had my whole cub motor redone, talking ground up. I left old plugs in, new stator, new Dyna Ignition, new powerjets installed, etc. Took it for a quick ride, burp, pop, miss... The old plugs were toast, even though they really had no ride time on 'em. Put fresh plugs in, runs like a top... For 2 bucks a plug, change 'em.

No prob.... Honestly, you're just shortening the life of an already short lived motor... It's your money, of course...do what you will... :beer:

You've got a corvette and a Ford 4X4 truck in your garage. Do you drive your truck in the summer and the vette in the winter, in the snow, in the rain...etc? But why not, it's a car...it'd designed to be driven on roads....right? A word comes to mind: purposebuilt. Not saying you can't take your shee through the mud...but, there's better alternatives.... You wouldn't buy a champion thouroughbred race horse in it's prime, bring him to your house and use it as a circus pony ride for kids, would ya? Could it be done? Sure... Fun? Maybe.... Better means available? Yep.... You're just taking a high reving, two stroke two wheel drive performance quad and taking it completely out of it's enviornment....

Not trying to be a smart ass...but, the OD of the pipe should be a different OD than the stinger tube it connects or slides into. I bought the hose from Magic, and put two hose clamps on...done deal... One on either side of the connection...

Where in MI are you at?

I bought my whole motor from Jeff @ Fast. cubs, pistons, head, crank, clutch and a bunch of odds and ends. Normally, cubs go for 875 or so. Some will up that price a little...but include a clean up port. I don't think I'm going out on a limb by saying a clean up port can be done in about an hour or so... Whadda think Steve...depending on how bad the casting flaws are...about an hour sound right?

Remove the air filter. Look down the back of the air box at the back of the carb throats... Move the thumb throttle slowly, and make sure the slides move at the same time. If they don't, there's a 10mm lock nut and 8mm sleeve you turn up or down to sync them. Lock the lock nut down when done.

Ask the builder buy it from, it'll range in price...from free to a few hundred bucks.

you can sync them by eye...I always do. But, the tool is nice to have. Let's start over. What size pilots are in there? What is your air screw at? Your needle does not effect idle. Pilot jet and air screw do...

Carbs being out of sync can cause crappy running before WOT (where they're both wide open) 280s is more like it. Put some old run of the mill BR8ES plugs in there....gapped at .028. Oil and premix are fine. They should slam shut, but there should be a little gap on the motor side of them. That's for idle. Your gap may vary for idle needs, but....it can be 1/8 inch or so...normally. Next...remove the air filter, and adjust the carbs to make sure they open in unison. There's a tool called a syncrometer that make sure each is adjusted properly...do a search here for it....

Our elevation in MI is less than 1000 feet. You are LEAN on your main jets, period. With the airbox and no lid you should be around 270 to 290 mains, with no airbox and just clamp on filters, you should be in the 320 to 350 range. Stop riding that bike now. Fresh build, stock head and stock porting, you should be in the 130PSI range, give or take. Cold will be a few PSI less...maybe. Make sure to hold the throttle WIDE OPEN when checking compression, and don't stop kicking until it stops. It often takes 10 to 15 kicks to get a true compression reading. Where abouts you at in MI? Also, what kind of oil are you using, and what premix ratio?

Everything will fit just fine. Take it from me, the pipes you have will hold you back a little. You can sell your stock cylinders and your stock crank for a few bucks which help recoup some of the cost. IF you decide to use your stock crank, I'd have it welded, and I'm sure Jim at Passion does a great job on that. And, I've have some heavy duty bearings put on it as well. What they mean by bolt on is...if it will bold onto your stock cylinders, it will bolt onto the cubs...they're not neccesarily talking stock parts. Unless Jim did a 12 port on your stock cylinders...or a major drag port, simply bolting on a cleaned up cub will make a noticeable difference. The cub from the factory needs to be cleaned up. There are flashing and casting flaws that need a quick cleaning...other than that...the porting is awesome on them out of the box.

Ell....you owe me a keyboard and a bottle of cleaner for my screen.... Herman...the one eye'd German.... But...my friends call me Dave, the ladies scream GOD....

For 20 bucks and 4 hose clamps mine never leaked... I bought a high temp rubber hose for each side from Magic racing...and they never leaked. In fact, I am still using these same hoses for my RDZ pipes...no issues. I am, however...in the market for a nice billet clamp to clean up the look a bit. The billet clamps sure do look nice....

We're all entitled to our opinion...but your generalization of the above is false...period. I'll agree with you on the 50cc fenders...nothing to be gained. But, on real machines with some real speed and power...yes, it most definately does make a difference. If you're laying on the gas tank, as most are when drag racing, a round helmet I'm sure drags less air than a big ol stinking piece of flat plastic....

ChaseMiamiATV is parting out a 2001 with a blown motor.... He might have what you need, as well...PM him. Good guy!!