dajogejr

Yep...checking electrical was next. Much more of a bitch to check than the simple stuff...though!!

BS. Equal riders/equal weight/equal skill Those piped/jetted and air filter 4 pokes will beat a piped, jetted and air filter banshee all day long. They make just as much power (if not a pony or two more), are easier to launch and easier to ride, not to mention 40 or 50 pounds less. You need to tell Larry, Curly and Moe (the guys you ride with) to hang it up...seriously.... 6 grand into a raptor barely beating a piped only shee? C'mon... Either you smoked your breakfast, or the raptor guy was smoking it as you were racing... For 6 grand you could easily put 55 to 60HP to the ground on that raptor. Don't tell me your T5 piped banshee with about 38 HP is going to beat that.... Again, equal rider/rider weight/skill. I would beat my buddies 450R with pipe, ignition, clean up port, cam and a few other goodies pretty consistently on my T5's shee, pods, timing plate and flywheel... I'd say 7 or 8 outta 10 times. He also weighs 60 lbs more than I do...and is getting better, but only been riding for 2 or 3 years... His bike in better hands would beat mine every time.

I'd PM a few builders here, or look on Flebay to get you cylinders "to get by"... Lack of support over there would have me worried, too. Look in the for sale here and on Planetsand.com... As long as you didn't trash these cylinders, you could probably get most if not all of your money back when you return stateside.

OK...gotcha.... Scratch my statement then.... I took a basically stock banshee and turned it into what you see in my sig in the last 4 months. It had T5 pipes, pod filters, lightened flywheel and a timing plate...that was it. Whole new Ignition and electrical system, new engine from the crank to the head, swinger, billet thumb throttle, carbs, pipes, and the list goes on. Only thing I've got left is a longer round house swinger, 1-5 dunable override and a lockup. Then I'm done... (ok, ok...maybe alky, not sure yet... ) I would have the crank checked out, and go for it as you can afford it!

I would actually run less compression if he plans on running it WOT for that long, period. If he's gonna get Cubs, he doesn't need reed spacers... Been there, done that...sold 'em.

When you reply to your own...or anyone else's thread, it "bumps" it to the top of the thread list. Greater exposure. People do it to keep it at or near the top of the forum thread list. In other words...he just "bumped" his own post two days ago, so...he still had 'em two days ago. Give him a shot. I saw pics on this forum before, they are nice looking pipes for sure!!

As of two days ago...he gave himself a bump... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64358

10 minutes at WOT??? Holy Christ.... You need to gear it more, or something.... No two stroke is gonna last that long held at WOT for 10 minutes...period. No problem holding 'em at WOT for a little bit, drag race, stretch on a trail, etc. But 10 minutes...no way. You can build a cub to last a bit longer, but...nothing you build is gonna last that long. I don't even think a bone stock shee will last long like that....

Yep, you pretty much answered your own question right there... Drag pipes are not for you. T5s are a fine choice, and there is a user here that has a beautiful set for sale on this forum for 290 shipped. He may still have 'em....

I'd rather drive from Elvis town than I would from Metro Detroit area....wanna swtich... I think I might head up for a Thursday, Friday ride...if they turn us away Saturday...hell with 'em.

Same thing my buddy just said...wait till they're not testing or nab someone, then hit the gate.

If you're gonna dune more than trail, Shearers or RDZs all the way. Other way around, T5s are a fine choice. You can forget about low end with any of those drag pipes, CPI will probably have the most, but pale in comparison to the all around power of a T5. You really need to be on the gas to get the benefit of the drag pipe, you'll spend as much time locking up the brakes as you are on the gas in trails with them....

If you have no problem running 112 octane, I'd bump that timing up to 8 or 10. Cubs love timing and compression....

An air leak would cause it to be lean. Are you looking at the tip of the insulator, or doing a proper plug chop. How do the reeds look? PM Machwon on here, he can sell you a leak down tester which will tell you if you have any air leaks.... Drag port and your other mods, I'd say you're in the right ballpark for you jetting. Try new plugs? What kind of plugs? How much oil you running in the premix?

Thanks...Billy Ray. that's pretty much what I was getting at...with a lot more words.

Well...how times have changed. We were there early this year, and they checked for spark and flag, not a single person for sound. That sucks...big time. I'm sure my RDZ's are on par with your CPIs for sound. Looks like I'll be repacking them somehow...great. Do people still put their quads in the back of the trucks to get into the gates? My shit is done, and I'm DYING to ride it there. My buddy is mid-process of building his monster 4 stroke Honda. Maybe we'll come up on a Wednesday night and ride Thursday and Friday. If they turn us away Saturday...we come home....

I've heard they are only strict and check sound on holiday weekends. Other than that...you need a flag and sparkys...or other type spark arrestors...

No prob. They should say 25, 27.5, 30, 32.5, etc. They start at 25 for the banshees, and go up by 2.5 each size...

Couldn't agree more. I'm hoping to get some dyno time to program my dyna and get the results. I know...a dyno won't pass you on a track...but, it helps comparing mods and stuff like this. I run my plate at +8 plus the #2 curve on the dyna... Will do a writeup once I get a chance to play with the curves and settings....

As said, I wouldn't push the issue with a stock crank... You're already at the point where I'd be nervous. Again...can't tell you what timing to run. I'd say put it at 8, but...you'll be right back to needing more than a 50/50 mix of race gas. I don't know about a screwdriver, but I do know I could adjust mine with an open end 10mm wrench with the flywheel still on. I'm going to be 100% honest with you. You're learning, that's good. We all need to. However, if you're asking basic questions about timing, compression and octane, I'm not sure you have the ear to listen to a motor and recognize pinging, preignition, etc. That few bucks you're trying to save on race gas goes right out the window when you lunch a top end because you ran it too long without the proper octane. I'm not trying to be a dick...but, I'd rather be safe than sorry... Although this is an extreme case, this very well can happen if you ignore your motor long enough, or don't know how to listen for problems.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=64680&hl=

Nope...by the time you top out vs. them, you will not be able to run them down. Your engine flat out does not rev out far enough to make the good power you need to get up there, 6 speed vs. their 5. Those 450's have a hella top end to 'em...especially those with cams. Keep in mind, you're gonna need power to pull that gearing on the top...with stock pipes you won't have it...period. Sorry...but not gonna happen.

Because if it wasn't...it'd spin out of the flywheel when you were trying to tighten the middle nut against the crank to remove it. Think about that....they have to fight eachother to work. The outer to stay tight on the flywheel, and the inner nut to push against the crank....

Advancing the timing make the motor run better (more HP) but it also makes it run hotter. When this happens, it can pre-ignite. Or, detonate the fuel before the spark happens...when it's supposed to. Higher octane fuels have a higher detonation point... Compression is similar...more performance...higher temps, need more octane to combat pre-ignition. Compression has more to do with the need for higer octane than a small timing advance like 4 or 6 degrees. Keep in mind, the 4 or 6 degrees of timing you may advance it is above and beyond what the stock CDI already advances it...so, don't think it's only 4 or 6...it's more like 27 to 22 or so (the higher the RPM, the less it advances the timing.) So...that being said. Do you see why it's almost impossible to tell you what domes to run, with what timing and what porting, unless you try it yourself. No two builders port the exact same, no two engines run the exact same...this is not an exact science... people spend years figuring all this out...and even they can't tell you with 100% certainty how your specific machine will turn out until it's all said and done.... And to answer your second question, NO. Advancing the timing alone does not make your compression go up.

I think he meant inexpensive.... En..in...it's all good. Polish...I'll save you the few bucks...and ship these to you for the cost of the ride if you'd like 'em. They fit my 35PWKs...I'm sure they can go a little bigger. The plastic had a lip in it...so, I sanded it with a dremel to remove that... You could probably take 1/2 hour and do the rest. They just sit in my "parts box" now...and as said, don't need 'em.... (sorry...already drank the bud light... )

That's not funny...but, it is. I laughed out loud when I read that... Hit the local dealership...it'll cost 10 or 15 bucks for a new one. Or..fleabay it. It'll cost half that to ship it....