dajogejr

Oh yeah...that's right, parking brake and throttle...good call, Chase. Yep, tape it up, call it a day...

You, J-madd, can pull a 15t no issues at all. I have 14/42 on mine now...and it just blisters the tires on anything... I can't wait to get in sand with my 12 rows....

Damn good for you..you'll notice a BIG difference. Maybe Dave is off work or real busy. He's always returned my PMs...so, I'd call the shop. Here's my advice... The two longest studs go in front of the cylinders. I'd use hi temp RTV on the threads of each head stud (some go into the water jackets)...and tighten them down by hand. You do NOT need to torque the studs down. Let them sit in the cylinder for a good hour or two so the RTV can setup, then put the head on. I use high temp RTV on all orings for the NOSS head. It does two things, assures the orings won't fall off when installing the head, and...will seal it up nice should there be any manufacturing imperfections. To be honest, I'd even take the back 90 degree neck off and RTV that Oring as well, then tighten it down. That leaked on me first go around... FAST Cylinders, T5s and a NOSS head? You're gonna have a blast....!!!

I can tell you for a fact the bottom three are TORS. If your lights, key and on/off switch all work, I'd bet the other two are TORS related too. What I'd do is trace them back to where they cut into the harness, cut them there, tape each end separatly so they CAN'T touch, and tape it all together. If you really wanna clean up your harness, hit the automotive store and get a plastic sleeve for the taped wires...

Wait. Exhaust is probably the biggest factor in jetting...why do it twice?

I used a Dyno in Ortonville, MI. It used to be called DynoEdge, but...the company itself really no longer exists. John owns it. He still let people use it that are previous customers, friends, etc...but, it's not advertised anymore. jankab here on the HQ did the work and tuning on it...he'll vouch that dyno puts out some pretty safe numbers. There was a guy from Vito's there as well, and he was impressed as well a stock carb T5 put that out. I agree with you...however, a dyno is great for comparing mods. Track time, etc., is the only real way to see how that equates! While I really don't know anything about A&S's dyno, or if they have one...Dan Hull builds some fast ass bikes, period. I don't care for his customer service...or lack thereof. I called him a long time ago with questions because a local dyno shop here said he is the man for cub cylinders, and he played a big part in the porting specs of the cub (again, what I was told from a local dyno here in Shelby Twp., these are NOT my words.)..bottom line is after two phone calls and voicemails to him, no call back. I'm not here to bash Dan, I know he's busy, and I can only account with my dealings with him as stated above. IN that same sentence...there is no doubt he builds fast ass banshees and drag bikes, period...no matter what the dyno numbers on his site say. That all being said....since that time, I've added Dyna, Nology, RDZ inframes and PWK35s. I'm hoping to get to Lakes powersports (Waterford area) and see what these mods did for me, in comparison to the previous dyno runs with previous mods. I have a number in my head, I'd like to see if it's close to that... It's all good!! :beer:

Are you actually doing a plug chop the correct way, or are you riding around for a while, like normal...and looking at the insulator tip? I agree, 300 or 330 main is rich if you're still running an air box... Installing a dyna might need a main size richer, it's igniting fuel/air better...but nothing drastic like that. Do you have any porting, etc?? Just PC Pipes and boysen reeds with an air box? I think you need to plug chop the correct way..and go from there on the mains. If you do that, and they look as they should with a 2mm tan smoke ring at the base of the insulator...leave it. It just sounds rich...very rich...

Do don't buy a lonestar. What you want is a round carrier, Honda style swingarm. Start your searches now...they go from el cheapo 150...to several hundred dollars. Hit up Ebay, look at the for sale sections, etc. Don't forget, you'll need a new bearing carrier too. It's gonna set you back a few hundo...there's no way around it. I"m with you 100%. I have a +6 Yamie style, the alignment marks line up perfect on the back of the arm. I measured axle center to frame on both sides, the left side is about 1/2 inch forward of the right, causing it to pull to the left when I'm on the gas. Shitty method for adjustment for sure. ONce you go roundhouse style, you'll never go back!!

I heat cycled mine three times and rode it barely, straight to dyno. It all depends on what school of thoguht you belong to, I guess...to each is own. Ware, you might have a few hidden ponies somewhere. I pulled 84.8 on a dyno with stock carbs and T5 pipes... A simple cleanup port is all, just flashing and casting flaws removed, no more!

Let me get this straight. You run a lot of dunes. You want to run a 16 tooth on a piped shee, stock motor You run 18 inch MX tires to do so. I've got your fix...pick up a boost bottle, that will make it all better... :: :yankyank:

I second that method. Except I'll heat cycle it three times, recheck torque, then RILISI.

You can match case porting if you'd like, it is not neccessary... Simply put the correct gasket on the cases and marker where the gasket hits. I dremeled my cases myself. Just a little bit of grinding... You might get 1 to 2HP extra....MAYBE. No big deal, though...

Someone chime in the help here if I"m 180 deg off... The right carb should have the tube coming up in the bowl, left doesn't, I believe... Try the air screw .5 turns out. When it's warm...you probably won't need choke, especially as warm as it's been.

I just threw out my old stock basket and inner/outer. It wasn't grooved up too bad, but I wanted something stronger for my cub. If no one bites, Dale, send Jeff @ FAST racing a PM (FASTOYS) or call him. He has a magnum aftermarket clutch basket that is tough and very affordable... You could always swing by Moto-Man in Canton, too...and see what he's got.

Keep in mind the new 4 pokes recommend new pistons after like 25 hours of riding, due to the tight clearances and short ass skirts on the new motors. I know the new Honda does (06) and the YFZ might...not 100% on that. It's a balance. 2 stroke = more maintenance, less costly 4 poke= Less maintenance, more costly...

Happy Birthday...Brad. I'm trying to find a can of "Something else" for you for your b-day...can't quite put my finger on it yet... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Hey...Wallace. RDZ and Grand River Racing are both in MI, I'd call Andy at GRR or Rob at RDZ and see who they use for chroming their pipes.... My buddy has a hookup, but he's just getting out of the hospital for Appendix surgery, I don't want to bother him right about now...but will in a few days for you. DJ

Depending on your mods, you might be able to get away with 3 of each as said. Once you go ported/stroker motor, 6HD is a good idea. No problems with Barnett HD springs, PM Jeff @ FAST, he's got 'em. FASTOYS is his screen name. For 30 bucks, get an easy pull perch and lever if you don't have one already, and for another 12 or so, get a new cable if yours is more than a few years old. Significant easier pull with both those items!

If the HDD is bad, drill several large holes in it, all the way through. Short of putting it in a hydraullic press, that's the best way.

You'd better hope you never have to take those reeds off again, that yamabond is nasty!! I'd use High Temp RTV next time, Just FYI. Good for you!! Hope it works out and you get the pilot/air screws figured out!

If you plan on riding in mud and water, leave the lid on with holes and filters for them. If you just plan on riding in dirt/dust, remove the lid. However, the lid helps hold the filter on and seal it. You will need to buy a pro-flow or similar adapter to bolt the filter to the front of the airbox for it to seal properly without the lid. Your call.

What about the slides, are they in correctly? PM Machwon on this board. He'll send you a complete leak down kit for about 10 bucks more than you can piece one together yourself. Trust me, you'll spend more time goign to hardware stores and driving around then just buying his kit...it works!

Yeah, I'm not trying to dog you at all, Broke. It's clear you're doing the stand up thing here. But, after my own personal experience, you should be able to shake the flywheel and hear a pin drop, nothing else... jankab can vouch for that... He was scratching his head with mine on the dyno...he just happend to take it off, shake it...then try another they had laying around which solved the problem.

I think you're rich on the jetting. Put the stock pilots back in first. Warm the bike up on old plugs. Then, put new ones in...and do a plug chop. In the top of this page, there's a stick on how to jet/read plugs. Read that carefully...it'll tell you all you need to know about reading the plugs, how to tune by 'em and how they should look. Get to it!!

Both coils will be on the way for you tomorrow, Sam. My stocker, one a friend gave to me. I was having a ton of problems with my cub build, so I decided to buy ALL new ignition. My brand new Nology does the job, so I keep spares. Both of these coils and my Nology coil didn't change how it ran, (Ended up being a crank seal blown from sucking water) and these should both be fine... Good luck!! DJ