dajogejr

If they're in good shape, you can... I just sold mine, BEAT UP for 200. Pipes were in ok shape, but the Chrome was pretty chitty... You can probably get 250 or more for them, that's more than half of the price for a set of Shearers.... They go for around 465 or so.... Or try to find some used ones here or on PS. Honestly, I think you should carb it first, though...since you do a LOT of drag racing...

Night does...

CPIs will have a little bigger power spread, Shearers will have more power, in a narrower RPM range. However...and someone is going to debate me on this of course, look at a bike with CPIs and look at one with RDZ/Shearers, and tell me which one you'd rather change spark plugs on. Also...I don't know about CPI...but the stinger tube routing is ingenious.... Right up and over your air filters...not even close to them. But, as read from a few other users here, I too had to put about 1/2 inch of washers on the left pipe, it was too close (rubbing) the head...big deal...

I'd 1/2 agree with that statement. Since you said duning and dragging...just go with the CPIs. If you said trail riding or farting around the house, then I'd say T5's. Just out of curiousity, Wallace...is there a reason you haven't considered Shearers or RDZ pipes?

These work too...allow for Pro-Taper style thicker bars, and less than half the price. It's what I have now... http://www.magicracing.com/Pro-Taper-Unive...p_155-1940.html

Geez...sred...how did I miss that one? :beer:

I thought the moose knuckle bros. invented the boost bottle, and night invented the man mayo bottle...

Good thing you posted that twice, I wasn't clear the first time... :shrug:

Friend of mine has a 400EX, he drilled out the rivets, cut a piece of diamond plate (the kind used for toolboxes in your truck bed, etc.) and riveted that in place. Doesn't look half bad at all...(For a Honda, of course...)

If you ONLY had the head milled and cylinders bored it shouldn't require major jetting changes, if any... That's if it was jetted correctly before this work. Stock pilots should work fine. 310s may be a little rich, but that's not gonna effect your starting. Is the choke tube in place between carbs, and...how old is the gas in the tank and carbs? I agree with Sred...replace the spark plugs, too.

Not sure how I can mispronounce it typing it...but, ok... :beer:

I thought that video was of him in the X Games... Here's him actually completing one...and riding away... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1...strana+backflip

You are truly a dumb ass... I guess the anal probe from the Mother Ship didn't last as long as you'd hoped. It's Edison, as in Thomas Edison (Light bulb, ya know the like the dim one in your head) not Adison It's Beethoven, as in Ludwig van Beethoven, not biet hoven...and he and Mozart were both composers, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was not a "Player of" Beethoven's music. That's like saying Honda is a rider of Yamaha's quads.... They both do the same thing. It's too bad you can't be mute just like ol' Chaplin (Yeah, it's Chaplin, not CHAPLAN)... If you know these significant people in history, learn how to spell their names...or STFU.

True dat... J-Madd kinda hijacked this thread, and the original poster got caught up in the mix... :beer:

IS the choke tube in place between the carbs? Slides in the correct carbs? What jets, pilots and mains, are in your bike right now?

I'm looking for some good aftermarket parts for my Jeep...anyone have any ideas? First off, are you looking for motor mods or suspension mods. Second, what's your budget?? Third, what's currently done to your banshee... This thread can go on and on....help narrow it down a bit... By the way...welcome to the HQ, and...where in SE MI are you at?

Stock cables will reach, no problems. Nothing wrong with the stock radiator. Get the steering stem...if you're tall, get 2, average height, 1 over.

Same here... I got their chain slider pack AND intake manifolds for my 35's...no complaints. (Slider pack from Magic, manifolds from Jeff @ FAST)

That jetting guide is just that, a guide. Please, on your next post, can you attempt to use a period here or there, and maybe a capital letter or two. I'm not asking you to be an English professor...but one LONG paragraph with no punctuation is just a tad difficult to read and put together....

He's not running 18's...he's running 22's. Big Difference!!

You answered your own question... I'd say you're probably...too rich. But, forget the silencers, that could be oil AND water from a car wash...check the plugs...

A. What do your plugs look like after a WOT run? B. 22 inch snow shows...well...you might be better off with a 14 and a tooth or two less in the rear, IF the bike is jetted correctly... That's a big tire. I'd be surprised if it didn't pull that...though...

Well...that's a two sided coin. No doubt he did you a favor by removing the TORS. But, he could've cleaned up the mess a little bit...oh well. It most definately could be a lot worse...

250 for a used cool head is what worries me... Any of the other parts used. I'd like a parts $ vs. labor $ break down. I gotta be honest...most of us work on our own shit. HOWEVER.... I had a ton of problems with my cub motor. I called a guy I saw post over on PlanetSand and read a few of his thoughts... Then...called him on the phone. After redoing my whole motor twice...I let him do it. Good thing, too. Ended up being a bad cylinder from the factory (top and bottom had to be resurfaced) ... Got it together, ripped good...sucked a bunch of water for being a dumbass... I had him redo it again, this time I bought RDZ pipes off him, he power jetted my carbs, pancacke bearing, extra steel clutch. I made a friend and I know I got a job done right. I honestly just got tired of dicking around with it after the second time! It only cost me a little bit out of pocket, shit...he was a steal...and an all around good guy. Nothing against Jeff, but I almost wish I would've met him earlier...he could've built me a 10 mil cub on alky for about the same amount of money as I've already spent...no BS.

Yeah, that got posted as I was typing mine. 35 is TOO MUCH. 20 to 22 Ft Lbs is spec. Follow the tightening sequence in your manual. I torque 'em down to 15 in order. Then 20, in order. Then 22. Start it up and heat cycle it two or three times, check the torque again.