dajogejr

You're not going to do a thing with that much. You could probably get a new set of rear tires, holeshots or razrs, that's it. You can't even get a single shock revalved/resprung for that much... Might be able to get a steering damner for that.... I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but...you could've raced a box stock 450 4 stroke and been more competitive than a box stock banshee on an MX track....

Yep...I do. Will take a pic when i get home.... It's about 9 years old, but...didn't get used for about 5 years when my buddy owned my bike (he's the original owner of my 96)... It's either an answer or HJC... Let me get back to you when I get home. Keep the MX pants...they won't fit my fat ARSE I'm sure... Shipping will probably be 15 bucks or so, via Fed Ex, due to the size of the box. It has removable innards.... How about you pay shipping and 10 bucks, if you like it? Will get pics when I get home from work...PM your email, please...

Don't remember when I took mine apart, but...it looks like oil galleries for the gear shafts.... At least Uncle Fred didn't do that with his dremel tool, they look factory or professionally redone...

Did travis actually land the double in the games? I haven't seen the clip yet... Hey...you can practice in the pit all you want, you still gotta bring it to the dirt and pay the price, which...TP has done plenty of times!!

Unless you're running alky...i'd say run the gap at .028... For a real quick and cheap fix, replace the coil plug caps with some new NGK ones. That might be it.... I have two spare used coils I just sent out to a member last week...he should have them today or so. If I get them back in time, I'd be happy to send you out one or both of them (depending on if keeps one or not) to test your system.... Up to you...

That CR 500 would probably shake so bad, it'll rattle off the takeoff jump... It's like riding a paint shaker... Put a big 4 stroke in there...all that centrifugal force...ouch....

I wish that were true...cockroaches never seem to though....

Even a stock banshee will benefit from a timing advance... Once you really start to dump some money for HP into it...more timing is a good thing. Set it at +4 for now, and be done with it...

Here you go... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=64914&hl=

Don't waste your money... 280 bucks can be spent elsewhere.... Once you're looking to squeeze every last bit of horsepower out of your bike (and...pump gas ain't gonna do that) then it's an option...if you want a programmable shift light, NOS activation, etc. I'd buy a CDI replacement from Ricky Stator if you wanted a new one, dealer will rape you for it. I bought one because I can set my timinig plate at +8 and then play with programming curves to see what else I can get out of it...

I'd say you're WAY rich on the main, stock pilot is 25...so, you're good there, FMFs do like a fatter pilot, though...so, maybe... With pipes and an airbox normally you're in the 270 range or so...

been covered 1,000,000,000 times. Use the search button... NO

No...I'd actually agree with him. Realistically, with the right pipes and carbs...a well ported banshee I'd say on average gets about 60HP or so... Bigger pipes, bigger carbs, more compression and more aggressive porting (dune or Drag porting) ...upper 70's is reachable, if not more, depending on the builder/tuner. Boring a stock cylinder out to .080 over only gives you about 25cc's or so... You buddy's banshee has 6 speeds and probably turns a 1000 or more RPMs. They are also geared very differently.... After reading that post...I'd pretty much agree with what is said. Once you get past pipes alone, and start getting into porting, a banshee is hard to beat, except by another banshee... Again, straight line, motor vs. motor. Any new 450 will blow by it on the track or trails all day long...

No...when you get the plate, it'll explain it all. You can basically set it from minus 12 degrees to plus 12 degrees (only -10 to +10 are numbered...but there's a little extra room past that..)

Whatever you do, get the RS plate, not the billet piece from pro-design. It's a nice piece, sure...but is it worth paying the extra 65 bucks for a billet part you will NEVER see? Just call Ricky Stator directly.... By the time you save 4 bucks on ebay, you'll pay more for that shipping it through ebay stores....

just go to imageshack.us and post a link to that site to post pictures....

You'll notice a little bump in bottom end and performance by getting an advanced timing plate and 21 cc domes. I'd say you'll be safe with 91 pump gas. When you purchase it from Dave Noss, ask him... You can PM him here @ DLNOSS. Fattys are fine.... You've done the cheap bolt ons after this... Next will be porting then carbs. Personally, I'd wait till it needs a fresh top end, but your patience is the key there....up to you. Porting can range from 250 bucks to 700 or 800, depending on who does it, what kind of port, etc. Carbs can be had used from 150 to 250, new from about 280 and up...

Yep...nothing really to break in on the bottom, just bearings. The top end needs for the rings to seat....

Do a search on threads by "night"...read until you get sick, and you'll have all your questions answered quickly....

Your carb has circuits built in, pilot/air screw, needle and main (yeah, I know...slide too, but let's focus on the basics here)... The main is 3/4 to WOT throttle, needle is 1/8 to 3/4 and the pilot jet and air screw are idle to 1/8 throttle. Since it's bad off the bottom, it's either the pilot and/or air screw adjustment...

NOt a great deal.... Until you get porting and other mods done, in my opinion, reeds later....NOSS head first. 22cc is stock. Octane boost is a pain. Just get 21cc domes and you should be fine... Save your money for reeds until you get more work done...

BR8ES will run just fine, clean up the pilot and/or air screw... 2B...you're on alky, I don't see that in this user's post anywhere or in his mods.... 8 range is fine...you should be able to clean up your jetting to fix that issue... Try a 25 pilot, if that doesn't fix it...try moving the needle back to the middle clip...

For future reference, I always refer to this site. Use the drop down to see what mm/inch measurement means what.... http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

Since you mentioned fragile... Once you start making some power, you're gonna want to have your crank welded for strength and reliability... Keep in mind, if you go 19 or 20cc domes, you'll probably need to run a mix of race and pump gas, or possibly straight race gas, depending on how much compression you end up with. Ricky Stator makes good shit, period. However, as 2b said...unless you plan on running more or HUGE Bright lights, stock stator is more than sufficient. Just buy the timing plate for 35 bucks and be done.... Anytime you build your engine, i.e. pipes, carbs, porting, etc., it becomes more fragile than stock, period. However, when done right, you'll be fine with proper maintenance.... What do you have done to your bike right now, is the question...?