dajogejr

This is all your fault. You tied up the only person they have manning the phones and caused this poor guy to not get an answer at all...shame on you... J/K....Jet, just having fun with you.

Maybe you two should exchange numbers for UPP...

Ha ha...Just kidding, Jeff. Just got my chrome Pipe hangers today...fast shipping, quick as all could be communication... Chalk up another good mark for Ellison Thanks buddy! Daj... :beer: :beer:

Not to be a dick..but, are your cylinders ported? if not, you won't be even close to 60... Reason I say that is because I see in your sig you have VForce reeds and T6 pipes... If that's it on stock carbs, you'll be around 40...

First place I'd look is here in the for sale. Someone might have a billet impeller. Don't get another plastic one...for obvious reasons. If not...I'm sure one of the builders on this site would be happy to take your money for one... FAST, Passion, the list goes on...

Jeff has a quote in his signature that sums it up very well. You can go broke saving money... If a quote ever fit, this one does...doubly so with a cub.

Hold on a second there...I think you're confused. A stroked crank without longer rods puts more stress, the longer rods are better and they cut down the angle. As long as your crank is in good shape, have it welded and new bearings put in to save your money. It'll cost you around 550 or so for a good welded, stroked long rod crank and a heavy duty bearing for it. Any builder worth their salt will tell you the factory welds on a wiseco (hot rod) crank aren't very good, and they will reweld it for you, normally at a nominal charge. Keep in mind, GORR cylinders are fantastic...you could easily get a few hundred bucks for them as long as they're not wasted and to far along the bore chain (.060 or more...) I got 325 for my virgin stock port, stock bore cylinders and crank, I think.... With Gore Porting you could probably fetch upwards of 250 or 300 for the jugs alone. Just a thought....

I can get you close, but porting is the wildcard. Start with 340 mains, 27.5 pilots, and 4th clip on the air screw. No one can tell you the exact jetting...but, that will be close. You'll have to fine tune the mains and might have to bump the needle down one (up one on the clip towards the blunt end...sometimes the VForce reeds need the needle to be leaned a clip) What kind of riding do you do and where? That will decide carb size...anyone that carries or sells carbs will sell K&N's as well, assuming you mean the clamp on pod style to reomove the air box...

They won't ship something that large. Shipping a complete bike will be 300 to 600 bucks. Try www.motorcycleshippers.com

I feel through research and trusted rider's opinions (and the guy I had rebuild my bike) that RDZ/Shearer inframes were the best choice for my cub... I CPI and Shearer are very close, IMO. Where CPI comes on a little sooner and falls off a little sooner, Shearers will make more peak HP and pull longer in the RPMs. Now...I'm not saying one makes 20HP more than the other, we're probably talking 1 to 3HP at most.... Jeff will probably tell you CPIs. Since I had T5s on my cub I can tell you...Cubs make power, period. But...you're choking them out a bit with a trail based pipe. It'll be fun, no doubt...but you will be missing on a few ponies. From T5 to RDZ or CPIs...I'd guess around 5HP give or take, and there's no doubt either of the pipes will pull longer. My friend gave me a helluva deal on my RDZ pipes...I simply couldn't pass 'em up. Plus...you can get to the motor easier than with a CPI. Talk to Jeff... You can PM him on here, FASTOYS, or: 785-364-5325 M-F 10-6 // SAT 10-2 Central time! Tell him you'll gladly give him some pizza or FBT (Fat boy treats) as partial payment...he'll laugh...

Nor would I have...until he said he used them all the time. The bad thing is...Animal...obviously they don't deliver to your door, and the give you 7 days to pick it up once it arrives at their terminal. However, when I averaged out paying 75 bucks for freight, to over 300 for the next cheapest freight shipper.... A 20 minute ride and 5 bucks in gas was a no brainer... :beer:

You have to buy or use the right jets/needle settings for each of the circuits. You don't use a different clip on the needle to overcome a large pilot, main, etc. 27 or 30 pilots are TOO BIG for your bike if you are keeping your airbox. the fact that you had to turn the air screws out 3.5 turns tells you that, clearly. If you don't want to drive an hour away, go to sucdo.com or magicracing.com and get a pair of 300, 310 and 320 mains. Average out what it'll cost you in gas vs. shipping and waiting from an online retailer. That dynojet needle should have 6 grooves total. Put the clip at the 4th groove down from the blunt end, and leave it. Put the 25s in, and turn your air screw out 1.0 turns. And buy the right main jets, period. One doesn't compensate for the other....pilots and air screw are idle to 1/8 throttle, then needle till about 3/4 throttle, then all mains. They blend together, but do not really compensate for each other. Would you rather wait and smoke your buddy, or hurry and look like an ass? You already know the 270 and 280 are lean. My guess is the backfiring with the 340 is because it is too Rich. You've answered your own question...get the right parts.

Plastic Totes, use the expanding foam around the motor. Believe it or not...Greyhound (yes, the bus company) is pretty cheap to ship stuff with. A friend of mine got a bulkhead from a snowmobile shipped from MN to MI for about 75 bucks. No freight company would touch it for less than a few hundred. If you know anything about sleds...it's a LONG, large body/shell for the sled...

Put a smaller pilot in. By turning it out to 3.5...you're letting a ton of air in. By putting a smaller pilot in, you're allowing less gas...so you don't need as much air from the air screw. You shouldn't have to turn the air screw more than 2.0 turns out. You're trying too much at one time. backfiring could be caused by the air screw being that far out. 1. Put a smaller pilot in, 25 (stock), put the air screw at 1.0 turns out from the lightly seated position. 2. Leave the needle in the middle clip. 3. Put some 310 mains in there. Buy about 8 spark plugs, and do a proper plug chop. Get the mains sorted first, then the pilot air screw, then the needle. Oh, and make sure the slides are in correctly (small cutaway towards the backs of the carbs) make sure the choke tube is in place between the L and R side carbs... Did you put the springs in correctly, and...did you put the cable holding tower on top of the carb slides in correctly, you should be able to see the little vent hold through the top as you're looking down into it... The pressure needed at the thumb throttle shouldn't be any tougher or easier from just playing with the jetting.

My buddy wheelied mine onto the grab bar from the twist that was on it...my bar was bent but the subframe was fine....that's where the "possible" came from ... Get that banshee in the dunes for Chrissakes....sand don't bend the parts as easy... :yelrotflmao:

Call 'em again and try to return/swap them. I paid 89 bucks for mine...you should've tried a reseller...no problems that you speak of. I have their Chain Slider pack as well, no probs... Maybe you just got a bad batch...

Free Bump... Good guy, more than honest seller...can build a nasty motor... Good luck...

Hmmm.... How long ago did this go down? He doesn't have any activity in over a year here.... Did you call the MI state police since Hazeltucky didn't help you? Michigan State Police Headquarters 714 S. Harrison Road East Lansing, Michigan 48823 Information: (517) 332-2521 Or...Macomb County Sheriff... MAIN BUSINESS LINE (586)-469-5151 TOLL FREE (888)-416-6900

Just be careful... I think every 20 minutes cost me about 800 bucks in more go fast goody parts... That guy kept me on the phone for about an hour.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

The stock clutch uses those rubber orings to get rid of that chatter... Every aftemarket clutch I've seen does not use 'em. You're probably ok, just check the flywheel and stator to be safe. Please...don't use all caps when replying, it's the same as shouting on a computer...and annoying!!

Wicked...didn't I buy your paddles and front smoothies off you? Bike looks nice and clean...love to see what it fetches for....

That is a nice bike...for sure. I bet it rides like a champ... I simply can not stand the design of those Paul Turner pipes, though... I'd love to have all his suspension components....

No way...I live in MI, and I'm closer.... I've already paypaled him 1.50 for a deposit... This thing belongs in one of those "you might be a redneck" chain emails. Seriously, put at least a 650R motor in there. Not the fastest...but loading ramps have a higher failure rate than those motors...they're a brick... This thing pops up on ebay from time to time. Normally, it has this long, drawn out explanation of "My dad and I spent countless hours putting this thing together, parts we had laying around the garage, it is very fast and reliable...etc."... At least we can all get a good laugh out of it....

I agree... The Toomey kit comes with 270 and 280 mains, and you use them with K&N Pods or the foam 2 into 1 filter.... They are LEAN as shit once you remove the airbox... Like Wes Said, put the bigger mains in and plug chop it..

Age means nothing for that gasket... If the top of the cylinder and the head itself are not flat, it will leak. Sucking coolant into the motor will not only cause it to overheat and boil coolant, often it'll run like shit...