dajogejr

At 10PM...it's already over?? Ha ha... Happy birthday!

A 15 tooth for just pipes, reeds and filters..for tight trails? I'd think he wants to get on the pipes sooner and easier, not have to stretch the gears out even further... Well, I guess it's just as easy to go the other way if he doesn't like it...

I think you'll be in good shape. For about a hundred bucks, you can lighten your flywheel and get a timing plate, which will help all around as well!!

What does speed tech recommend? They ported your cylinders... That's a nice bump, but if you're gonna dune alot 33PWKs might be more up your alley.

T5's, no air box...just K&N...330 to 350. Unless Pismo and Glamis are more than 1000 ft or so... If so, start at 350 and subtract 10 for every 1000ft about sea level...

Two different part numbers on sudco.com...so, I don't think so...

FBT= Fat Boy Treats... :beer:

Youch...I'm hoping your ok, first off... Since you've got some bad ass quads there, I"m assuming you're doing fine. There are three people I personally would talk to. WCR or Whitaker racing in Florida (you'll have to search for them on PS for the number, or look up WCR on ebay, they sell there too.) Dave Moore Racing, this guy knows his stuff Passion Racing, Jim has been working with these and beating the hell out of them for a while now. You're gonna have to make your own decision from there... I gotta be honest, since you have the loot, I'd look into a lockup clutch while you're at it as well.... I'm sure if you asked your bud on PS, he'd probably agree...

Yes sir to both....hence, best of both worlds. I've seen 1-5 and 2-5 dunable overrides out there. Personally, I'd go 1-5. As with any override, though...you're gonna lose 6th gear...

Yep...that boy can talk your ear off, but at least he's not just selling you some crap and off you go... Did you ask about FBT discounts? :yelrotflmao:

Ah..you're a friend of Ubetrun... I check in on the Kenz project thread every once in a while... Even after all the smack talk, it'll be good to see the final results. Back to the question at hand. Once you start making major ponies on a shee, say...80 plus, 85 plus...which you should easily be at with a 68mm 4mil cub, they don't shift the greatest. A standard override allows you to upshift without any clutch and staying on the gas. However, a very bad down point, if you let off the gas in any of the over ride cut gears, it WILL bend the shift forks....if you don't pull in the clutch. You might get away with this once, don't count on it twice. And, if I'm not mistaken, you have to come to a complete stop to downshift back to 1st or 2nd...someone clear that up if I'm wrong on that last part. Enter the dunable override. You can ride it like a normal tranny, use the clutch, downshift, etc. But...when you wanna drag race, you can upshift the cut gears under full power with no clutch... It's called dunable because if you ride the dunes and do more than just drag race, you're gonna want to shift, up/down, etc...and use the gears for tooling around. You simply can't do that effectively with a run of the mill override cut tranny, whereas you can with a dunable... There are several builders making the dunable. Dave Moore, Jim at Passion, WCR in Florida ..and since you mentioned Ubetrun, you're on PS too. There's a few threads on this already. I'll be going lockup AND dunable 1-5 after this season, or earlier if I get the loot...

Air screw and pilot have nothing to do with top end. What do your plugs look like? Done a plug chop yet? Are you using fresh gas and oil, and new spark plugs as well?

Do a seach on dunable override, they are the bomb. Can't wait to get mine.... Rather than write a paragraph (rare for me)...just search on it. I'd ask Rob why he wants to use 20cc domes on that cub. I don't know what size domes are on mine, but I've got a solid 180LBs plus of compression...

You might want to think about a dunable override while you're at it...

That's what I was getting at... Stock clutch from Yamaha uses them to "cut down" chatter. No aftermarket clutch that I know of uses 'em. I think something is misaligned or not put back together right...and I don't think it's the fault of the Ezpull lever and perch...

YOu didn't reuse the rubber cushions from the stock clutch with the new one, by chance...did you? I mean the large rubber o Rings that were in the inner diameter of the friction plates? With the cable removed, you should be able to push the clutch arm on under the left carb with slight pressure, and the arrows should line up. If they're not lined up...you may have problems. Hope you greased up the ball bearing while you had it apart as well...

That in a nutshell is pretty much what I was getting at...thanks for putting it in those words!

Either way...top end is coming off... The top of your cylinder isn't flat, the base of the NOSS head isn't flat (highly unlikely) or the oring in the cooling tube (metal elbow) is bad, leaked coolant into your cases and got sucked in by your crank seal... Hopefully it's somethin simple...good luck.

You're kidding on that right? You'll be lucky to get 45 to 50 out of a piped, podded and jetted shee with a timing plate. Leaving compression stock on a banshee...bolt ons only...that's about what you're gonna get... It's somewhere between 33 and 38 HP on a bone stock shee...

You can get 'em cheaper, like 280 or so shipped. Make sure you get the correct wiring for your year harness. I run one with my timing plate set on 8 degrees... I'm hoping to have time to get to a dyno with a laptop to see what kind of improvement I can get out of it...

A new cable and EZ pull lever and perch are nice. Yes, they significantly ease clutch pull. A little bit of grooving is gonna happen, more than that, time for a new basket. The new lever and perch clean up a lot of the BS, parking brake, etc. A new cable is 12 bucks or so. However, as long as the pushrod is adjusted right in the clutch, and you have the cable adjusted properly (should have about 1/8 of an inch of freeplay at the ball end of the lever when the bike is cold)...that's about all you can do. If it still doesn't disengage, might be basket time. Sorry...Dale, just reread that. Check both ends of the cable...make sure neither is kinked, bent, frayed, etc. Or...if it's more than a few years old, buy a new one. Also, did you just get the lever, or the whole perch? The lever might not seat up as well in the stock perch...dunno. I bought a perch and lever together at Magic.

For starters...I don't think you have enough power to pull that gearing. Go back to 14/42 or 14/41. Your jetting sounds close enough...but, without enough power to pull that gearing, I think you'll be fighting jetting woes all day...without figuring the real problem. You probably need about a 260 to 280 main jet...but, I think the gearing is the first problem. Do you have a stock or Toomey/Dynojet needle? If it's a stocker (5 grooves) put the needle back in the middle groove. If it's a Toomey/Dynojet needle (longer and 6 grooves) leave the clip in the 4th groove from the top.

First off, if you remove the lid, you'll need a pro flow adapter to "Seal or Seat" the filter to the front of your airbox. The channel in the lid actually does this. Second...normally, you'll need to rejet when you do anything that effects intake or exhaust. Pipes, air filters, etc. usually you don't have to rejet when you change timing or compression, but...always better safe than sorry. Check those plugs... Welcome to the family...

Jim does a fine job, as does Jeff. It would be wise for you to call both, get a feel for 'em...and make your decision. Also...keep in mind, I'd ask them how backlogged they are... You might want to wait till off season when they're not as busy...and you have more time.

Keep your stock cylinders and get a strong dune port, you'll be much happier. Trust me on that one...I've been there with a cub, T5 pipes and stock carbs. You'll be running drag port timed cylinder with trail pipes.... You can get a much more user friendly port job and save your money for cubs. If you rode 70% dunes and 30% fast wide open trails, then...I'd consider it. I was just in your boat...I thought I could detune the nature of the cubs a bit. Wrong idea. You'd be better off with a good port on your stockers. The crank is offset 2mm (4mm total) and the rod is 5mm longer on a 4 mil longrod crank. (I think it's a 115mm rod, not 100% on that one)... If you got a stroker crank and dune port job to match, you'd be in good shape...