dajogejr

I've got their head and billet timing plate. Both are top notch products. I like the look and function of their head...less Orings is better IMO...and his chrome is very, very nice!! top notch hardware, etc. I actually have an older design of his thumb throttle, before he really tricked them out with adjustable lever positions, etc. Also a quality product.... I was trying to find a close up pic of their head on my bike...but all I have are older pics and a little far away... I cut up a picture, best I could do...

It looks like Toomey pipes and Shearer inframe pipes had a baby and this is what they got.

Remove a float. You'll gain that much more volume.

You're right...if he gets messed up for not wearing a helmet he'll be doing us all a favor by thinning out the gene pool... Being Stupid does not = Bigger Balls.

Go spend the 3 to 5 bucks unless you like doing everything twice. No need for yamabond at all...any RTV will work, blue, red, black, hi temp..does not matter.

Yes...and as you'll note I said my nuts are both tough and look good. I'm picky when it comes to my own nuts.

Looks good...time to upgrade the suspension components (A Arms, shocks and swing arm)

There is a very easy fix for this. Get new copper...or I prefer brass washers. Get Acorn nuts. Put the washers on, put a dab of silicone on the threads of the acorn nuts and torque them down. I promise you no issues. The center studs are good for leaking. With brass washers and RTV'd acorn nuts they won't. Period. The Chariot head I have came with heavy duty Chrome Acorn nuts. Not just tough, but very good looking on the bike too.

Compression ratio, NOT cranking compression dictate the need for octane. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Gotcha... http://www.torque-racing.com/contact-us/ Don't forget to get your butter spreading knives as well (You'll get that once you're on their site...lol)

60 bucks plus shipping....twice what you'd pay a shop to do it for IMO. If this is something you plan on doing freequently, the right tool always makes the job go easier...but how many do you plan on doing?

You popped an oring JD. I'd bet on it. Let me know how milling an aftermarket head works out for you.... Seriously, I'm sure you have a surface plate at work. Take the shell off, remove the domes and do a few figure 8's on some 800 grit wet sand paper...make sure the whole surface gets scratched. When you put the head back on, go 10 ft. lbs, then 15 then 20 all the way around.

Take it back apart...lol. Compression ratio dictates the need for octane. Timing does to a point, but not as much as CR. You have to measure the volume of several things for an accurate compression ratio.

I'd run that and not even think twice about it...more than 1PSI per minute is cause for alarm. And usually when you have a bad leak (crank seals or intakes) it'll spit out as fast as you can pump air in there.

Splitter...as in two halves... I've seen more cranks broken down and redone than you can imagine...and I've seen 'em done both ways. I will gladly pay someone 25 to 30 bucks to press off and press on bearings....vs using a puller.

Just about any one of the sponsors probably carries the whole seal kit... I'm sure FAST, HJR and M&M can sell you a set.

Word... I've had epoxy break on mine twice... Got it welded, no issues since. I don't care for any of the epoxies, roll up, pour in, etc... If I ever break mine I'll buy the molded piece from Direct Drive. Not only is it one piece without the expansion ring it's also reinforced by the kick starter, where they're known to break on a kick back...and all the vent holes are gone. Nice and clean looking.

Break one of the old rings in half, use that to scrape the ring land clean. Probably just carboned up a bit.

Trust me...take it to a machine shop and let them do it. My buddy does a ton of cranks...without a press it's just too much work. The time you'll spend beating it off and heating it up won't be worth it compared to a press with the right plates to pop it off.

Hit up JD Customs. He's a site sponsor.

If they are right and left carbs, the left carb has a choke, the right doesn't. You should be able to connect a tube from left to right for the choke. For the cost of a new slide, you can buy a set of used carbs damn near. It's simple, really....like you said. You can only put the slides in stock carbs two ways because of the groove/pin. One way is right, the other is backwards. If the cutout/half moon is facing the motor...it's backwards. Hit up Minkia38 or Motor City ATV to see if he'll sell just a single carb slide.

The very first pictures looks like the intro to a buddy/buddy brokeback mountain gay prison scene type of moive. I'm just sayin....

Ask one of the site sponsors who carry his pipes.

55 is what we run in methanol bikes at or near sea level...yeah, 55 is way fat for gas @ 3K feet. Swap the carbs from left to right, if the problem follows it's the carb, if not, it's something else. 150ish on the main, CEL needles and 45 on the pilot is where I'd start at your elevation.

No one reads or cuts these from blueprints. It's all done by hand...on a CNC or mill. The springs on the shift fork shaft help keep the forks in a Neutral position. The trans is cut in a way that it's almost always in 2 gears at the same time. keeping the forks in a nuetral position help to alleviate this.