dajogejr

Not 100% true. I pull mine all the way in, or it will lurch a little when revving it up. My clutch is adjusted perfectly, both at the basket/outerhub and at the lever. I've also got a brand new basket, inner and outer as well. By pushing on the pullrod on the left side of the case, the arrows should line up. You should have about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the end of the clutch lever...or, be able to fit a nickel inbetween the lever and the perch before the cable starts to disengage...

PM him on here, he'll set you up.

YOu need to fix your coolant leak before you worry about being able to idle. It's quite possible it'll idle fine after you fix that... Water/coolant in the jugs doesn't burn well. My guess is you didn't seal the base or head gasket correctly. Time to tear at least the top off (head) and get a new gasket. You did buy a new gasket and properly torque the head down in sequence, right? Did you clean up both surfaces, cylinder and head?

Between all the heat and oil, it just took it's toll on those brittle screens. Before I bought new silencers, I'd clean and degrease the hell out of 'em...and take it to a welding shop. Probably not enough metal to weld...but, you only need a tack here and there. Or...you can try brazing them....don't need as much heat. 20 bucks spent there is easier than footing the bill for new ones... Just a thought.

I know you're going to think I'm a smart ass for saying this...I'm not... Remove them. They're more hassle then what they're worth. Unless someone will ship you a free replacement for it, you can get the removal kit for around 50 bucks. New carb caps, throttle cable, tap, drill and brass idle screws. Unplug all the wires and get rid of it all...

Take each spring out. find a rubber hose with the same inside diameter as the springs, and place the spring around the hose. LIGHTLY sand off some of the metal around the outside edges of the springs, use a wire brush or scotchbrite pad to smooth the edges.... DO NOT clip or cut the spring, this will only make it easier at first to pull it, then...it'll be just as tough as before, but seem tougher since the initial pull was easier... You can also try another thumb throttle or thumb lever with more leverage... Make sure your cable is clean and oiled up too...

Post up a pic....if you can. You can upload your photos to http://imageshack.us Paste a link into the forum..

The shift star mod will help you find nuetral easier when the bike is running, and will also help you shift a little better. Since you're already gonna have it apart to check the adjustment, might as well. However, it's not gonna solve your problem at hand.

How can you compare a throttle body (fuel injection) to a dual carb setup, and a big V8 four stroke to a small 2 stroke twin? Let's get back to apples to apples. For everyday playing around and modest porting, a single carb or small twins are fine. So...based on your logic, Top Fuel Dragsters could run single large carbs and be just fine? I'm sure your drag banshee did run great. But, if it had a motor with drag porting and drag exhaust, it would've been better with larger carbs, period. It's a sacrifice... Twin larger carbs will lose low end, there's no way around that...but, it will increase top end overall. Drag racing is all about WOT....the more fuel the better, if the motor is built to handle it of course...

I just got my house last year, and my girl would hit the garage door opener to close it...and drive away not even looking. So, after two phone calls from different neighbors with the old "hey...you know your garage is open? I closed it".... I called and got full coverage. (I've since taken away her opener... ) But, it's like 18 a month, so...I'm used to it and don't miss it. Plus...if I end up wrecking it causing a yard sale...at least the insurance will pay for some candy stripers to change my piss bag...

Possible you have a bent shift fork?

Metal shavings? Yes. Milky? no. Yeah, I have a home made tester that doesn't work for crap, and pieced it together just as Bob was selling his kit. I think it would've cost me 10 bucks more than what I pieced together...but his will work. I'm gonna pick one up from him one of these days...(I'm hoping from all the referrals, he'll just send me one...ha ha...J/K Bob)... I'll just wait by the mailbox for my Christmas card, though... :beer: Bob bought my OEM Cylinders (virgin, non-bored) and stock crank from me. Good guy to talk to, very quick to respond and professional.

For a single carb? Yes... Cascade runs it on their 450 and smaller cub builds.... I'd ask Jim, see what he says. Unless you're running trails or MX with that motor, I'm sure it'd like to breathe better through twins...though.

D'oh...it sure is... Normally we see this question when someone buys a cool head or pro-design head.

Have you thought about Toomey T5's or FMF Fatties?

You have an air leak...get a leak down tester...

The billet shifter I have is a helluva log stronger than stock...I think it's a pro-design. It was on the quad when I bought it from my buddy... Have you thought about running a longer bolt all the way through yours, and a lock nut on the bottom? If you break this one...check to see if your foot is still attached... http://www.magicracing.com/Pro-Design-Bill..._p_666-980.html

Looks good...red. You could always just move somewhere that is less elevation...but, damn...as much as you ride, I'd rather move out by you!! :beer:

35mm is probably the best all around, unless you're running a big bore stroker motor, then 38mm or so. However, if you're running that big a motor and not running dual carbs, you're short changing yourself of quite a few ponies...

You didn't put too much tranny fluid in, by chance...did you? It's about 1.7 quarts of fluid or so... Since you're in mid-michigan, stop by and see Bob at R&B racing. He sells a leakdown tester. All you gotta do is take your pipes and carbs off and test for a leak. If a crank seal is leaking, the tester will show a drop in pressure... Bob's in the Saginaw area, helluva nice guy to boot. You can PM here, his name is machwon. Good luck...

20 ft lbs... You could've found 20 posts on this easy.... 20 ft lbs... You could've found 20 posts on this easy.... Just make SURE you torque them in the proper sequence, same as the factory head, use that as your guide. I run them down snug with socket wrench. Tighten them to 10, then 15, then 20 ft. lbs...

Yeah, .018 is what you'd run on alky...

Yep....you can always use grease if you're in a pinch...but, RTV is tacky and helps seal as well. Double bonus!!!

I think you should run it without the lid (if you have the pro-flow adapter to seal it) and take a quick plug chop... If it's white or no coloring, up the main two sizes and do it again. Removing the lid if you truly are "on the edge" will probably result in 1 or 2 sizes bigger on the main... Just be careful and smart. a few bucks for jets is better than a few hundo for a fresh top end.

Don't half ass clean 'em. Remove the pilots, and use a strand or two of speaker wire to clean out all the passages...and the pilot itself. Make sure the airscrew is removed and passage cleaned as well. I set the floats level when turned upside down. Remove your needle. there is a spring-tip on it that hits the tab on the floats. make sure it is still "Springy"... I don't know the exact height the floats should be, but...unless they're leaking, they're probably fine. If they were stuck or not getting you fuel, it wouldn't be screaming after 1/4 throttle, quite the opposite would happen. Dumb question, J-Madd...but are the plugs new and both gapped identical? I'd almost bet it's a little dirt or sumthin in the carb on the pilot circuit. To check easily, switch 'em....that wasy you'll know if it's carb or something else...