dajogejr

Back to basics... What have you done to your bike lately... Top end, gaskets, etc? Have you tried fresh plugs, gapped at .028? Fresh gas and oil? Drain your tank and remove the fuel valve, make sure it's not clogged or dirty... Not trying to sound like a jerk...but in 25 minutes you had time to remove the gas tank and plastics, and go through every wire from the tail lights to the headlights and posted back?? I need you in my pit crew...lol.. You put new reeds or reed cages in lately...by any chance? Could be a coil, CDI or stator. The Coil and Stator can be ohm'd out...CDI can't. It could be something simple like a cut ground or bad kill switch... I'd reallly look into the wiring a bit more...

Pilots are fine... Mains...I'd start at 350...see what happens. I think you'd have been better off with a more tame pipe on a stock motor/stock port bike. I have the same pipes...but...if you plan on future mods, drag porting and bigger carbs...they'll suit you well...

Go through all the electrical, head to tail lights. Make sure now wires are burned, etc. You may want to pull your flywheel cover off and make sure the pickup isn't loose, either...

You started off too Rich.... With just pipes and no lid at sea level you'll be around a 260 main. You may have to lean out your needle a clip...but, I doubt it.

Do you have the factory clutch perch still? if so...look for wires going into it. if not...they're somewhere. Also...what about the two wires going into your thumb throttle? Disconnect 'em.

Lockwashers and Nylock nuts, crank 'em.

You're missing the two wires that go into the parking brake and throttle housing. There's 5 places to disconnect. I think the wires going to the parking brake have to be tied together...If I remember correctly...

Nothing... They're used for clearing the clutch arm once you get bigger carbs...and...since you're putting bigger carbs on, you'll get a bigger increase in performance...

Nope...you can get Blaster pistons OR 795 series pistons. Back a while ago, you HAD to use blaster pistons because of the higher wrist pin height....until the 795 series came out... I have 68mm blaster pistons (big Bore) in my cub motor... Yeah, it's worth it....if you do it all at the same time and get it done right, Dale.

No 2 stroke has a limiter... SRP makes a CDI rev box that claims to give you 1000 more RPM....it's a marketing ploy BS. The pipes and porting configuration dictates how far the motor can rev... Valve train is the reason for rev-limiters for the 4 pokes... I know on the 450R...if you up the rev limiter without better valve springs, you'll float 'em.... That is the one thing I can not get used to on a 4poke...timing my shifts just before the limiter hits. On the shees, you just shift as soon as it stops pulling....oh well.

Thanks for clearing that up....I saw an email with your post...but when I clicked on the link...mine was the last post. I've been having problems with email notifications, didn't know if it was acting up or not... Cheers...

HELL NO... Their jet kit is way lean, I don't care what they say... Their kit comes with dynojet needles (longer and richer) and 270 and 280 mains. You should be ok with stock pilots...I could run 27.5 or 25's in mine... TingX2 is right... 340 and check plugs....you should be safe with that...

I'm with you there...however, throttle body is still fuel injection, it's just not direct port injection...PWKs are not. There's a BIG difference... Ha Ha...yeah...42 nozzles and a blower...not that would be overkill on a 350... :beer:

That's the MIO trails....and Bull Gap. You can have 'em. They are simply too tight and whooped out for me. You need to try the UP, Cheboygan and Peacock trail system. Wide open...4 and 5th gear trails... YOu'll love 'em!!

KEVWS6... I got a reply in my email to this.. Did you delete your post? it was interesting...

Get the slider pack by UPP from Magic Racing. It is that guide you're missing, and you Don't have to remove the swingarm, upper and lower rollers, and the back chain guide... http://www.magicracing.com/UPP-Chain-Slide...p_703-1058.html

I should rephrase my first statement. MY 4mil cub pulled great on stock carbs and T5s... However...in order to get the real deal out of those pipes, I think more agressive porting and bigger carbs would be needed. I didn't mean to sound like stock carbs won't work or are A problem...I think the performance gains he was looking to get aren't going to come from the pipes alone... Toomey...I was in similar shoes a few months ago. I had a TON of problems with my cub build.... I posted my specs...and quite a few people said "It won't run right with T5s and Stock carbs"...that's your problem...yadda yadda yadda.... Some even said it won't work with that setup. It ended up being a bad flywheel, air leak at the base gasket and coolant leaking at the head surface (yeah, my luck....) Got it all together, and it ripped... My dumb ass took it on some trails and sucked water...ended up popping a crank seal. So...once again it was down, I went all out. Replaced EVERYTHING in the ignition, 35PWKs, RDZ inframes, the works. I know I didn't "need" too...but, I had extra cash and I planned on doing this sooner or later....it was just the excuse that I needed to get all this while it was down anyways.... Sorry for the novel, but...I didn't want you to think I said they "Wouldn't" work...only that they are limiting the performance I think you were looking for... And...yes, I'm sure the jetting is a little off...but probably not much... Here's my original thread from months ago...you'll see what I mean: (the dyno run was before my Dyna Igntion, Nology Coil, 35PWKs and RDZ/Shearer Inframes)... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=59777&hl=

Rose City, MI? Really....got any more info?

Actually...I'd first ask Jim, see what he says...I"m sure he sells a ton of 12 ports and 35PWK setups... Wesw is very sharp on jetting those passion bikes, too...

Sudco.com or carbparts.com Are you looking for any parts in particular??

Stock Carbs, Mild Porting, Drag Pipes... That mismatch is why... One of two problems... Too small of carbs, my thought... Or.. Your porting type liked the T6's better. I bet if you pulled your jugs off and sent them out, telling the builder you were running drag pipes...so you need at least a strong dune port if not a drag port, you'd like them better. CPIs breathe a lot better, but with stock carbs your asking them to suck through a coffee stir. You went from a pipe that had an overall powerband, albeit at less HP...to a top end pipe that will make more power, but over a shorter duration...

To be honest, a dyno is really only good for one thing... Measuring performance gains from mod to mod in a very close time frame. You can pull a few runs, come back a couple days later and get different numbers everytime. WIthin an hour or two period, though...changing pipes, jetting, ignition curves, etc, a dyno is a useful tool. But...comparing dynos to dynos...there's no benchmark to compare the two. Anyone in town is gonna go to the dyno that shows the most HP...and they're doing no real service for you...

Gave me a great deal on some nice exhaust clamps and had them here in less than 8 business days from overseas in ITALY!! Thanks man, much appreciated! Dave

That bolt is hollow... If you have time and a drill press, here's what you do... Tap both ends. Put a plug in one, put a zerk in the other. Drill small holes, about 3 or 4 of them through the bolt itself (hence the need for a drill press and a few bits in case you break one...) You'll never have to worry bout it again....

Yep, I agree. I love Toomey pipes...but, it's hard to justify the cost for just a stupid silencer... :shrug: The problem is...after you drive around and try to get it welded...which, you're not sure how it's gonna turn out anyways, you might have better saved your time buying a new silencer... Sorry...Josh...you're in a shitty spot indeed.... Good luck to ya...