dajogejr

It's a POS in two ways: 1. Takes up valuable room to work on shit, and 2. Eventually the weight will weaken the intake, possibly causing it to crack and leak. Someone here has got to have a crossover tube they'll give you for shipping.... I'd leave something there. There's a debate on wether or not it's needed....I still use mine...but I've seen plenty plugged...

Ha ha...yeah, we've all said that....it normally doesn't take that long! Congrats!

Also a good time to inspect the clutch, etc., as well...

It's not an electrical limitation.... The motor can't spin any faster due to port layout, pipes and intake... So, if you want to call the engine's inability to rev any further a rev limiter, then...uh...ok. As compared to a four stroke where the ignition cuts when it gets to redline....

The more you spend on the a arm, generally the better quality joints are in them, ball or heim... They make a arm protectors, as well, that usually just clamp on. You can get them made from plastic, carbon fiber and even aluminium diamond plate....

yes and no. It tells you there's a problem in the right cylinder...that's about it. You should take off the head and cylinders, both sides. Blow some compressed air into the cases under the crank, you don't want any water down there. Take the cylinders and head to a machine shop, have the surfaces checked for flatness. Look at the gaskets REAL GOOD when taking them apart, often you can see where the water is seeping in. My guess is the tops of the cylinders aren't truely flat...or, most likely, the cylinder head itself is warped.

Of course...that would be my advice too...but, that's just a few dollars more, no big deal, right?? Red...I'll have front and rear marvins end of this week...shipped out yesterday... Can't wait to see how those babies ride for drag and dunes!!

Great minds think alike... :beer: Someone that got out of banshees years ago had a billet one laying around...so, I figured since I'm spending all this money on my cub....etc., why chance it with a cheap, flimsy plastic impeller...prone to go sooner or later!

Red...you don't think he should get shocks first, then A Arms and Swinger? I think aftermarket a Arms will show how weak the stock front shocks are..and probably make the ride worse!!!

Nice one...D. Make sure you take off the side cover regardless...why chance getting pieces of plastic in your clutch, tranny, etc...for the price of a new side gasket and a couple quarts of oil...

Any jackass that asks about putting diesel fuel in their banshee deserves to get mocked, kicked and beaten...and have his banshee taken away (if he even owns a banshee)... Reading this guys posts and the attention it draws is like watching a fucking train wreck... You don't want to, but...for some reason you're drawn to it and have to read just how stupid his posts are.... ::

Hey...Justin. Since you got it all apart...do you mind snapping a picture of underneath the seat. I'm curious as to how the CPI's route around the carbs and filters in comparison to the RDZ/Shearers I have now.... Yeah...I had to shim out my left side pipe too. I think 6 or 8 washers did it...but, I might look for a bronze sleeve...one day...

BS...I've read just as many bat fit/bad finish about the CPIs as well. If you take a 1/2 inch worth of washers or a spacer on the left pipe hanger mount, it will clear the head no problem. The design of the RDZ/Shearer inframes is excellent, bar none. The way they go up and over the carbs and filters is top notch...no need to worry about burning your filters, fuel lines, etc. Oh, did you boys happen to notice this thread died in March..btw? Case in point: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65508

If you bike is jetted correctly the way it is now, just removing the air box and putting clamp ons will be roughly 340s...you should be safe. You may have to bump your pilot jet one size if it's stock (25)...some pipes like a fatter pilot, some don't. With stock pilots and pods, try the air screw out at 1.0 turn and see how that works.

While you're at it....get a new aluminum impeller, too...that junk stock plastic one won't be too far behind it....

He needs some new material to :yankyank: to...that's why...

Sorry...Justin. But in my experience with three different shees, stock carbs, T5s and K&N pods. 330 to 340 was the range for less than 1000ft 65 to 90 temps.... However, I agree...it's either the connecting tube between them is not connected or the slides are swapped. I've used 25 and 27.5 pilots in that setup...either will do fine...the bigger just needed more turns out on the air screw...

Stock Crank? It is welded? If not...you're wasting your time going any further... If yes... 8 to 10 degrees on a plate for 500ft drags is fine, as long as your jetting is dialed in...

I wish I could tell you... I ran 500ft drags all day long when Dusty D's was open in Standish....and that was about sea level... Checked my plugs religiously...they were perfect. I got done riding after a while at Silver Lake...and they were just a hair lean... Other guys have said the same...something about Silver lake...not sure. You need to do a proper plug chop...here's all you need to know: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Here's what you have to know... ojcool is a car guy, specifically Mustangs. And...he's big on Dyno Tuning. Dyno tuning is great for comparing mods, granted if they're done in the same day...within a relatively short time span. They can get you spot on for your jetting...but, you'll still have to fine tune your jetting once you get into "real world" riding... A dyno doesn't compensate for the exact elevation your riding at, etc.... A dyno is a great place to start...you'll always have a bit of fine tuning once you're at your desitination.... ojcool and I had a thread that turned ugly a while back...we're fine now...but it was very clear he's more into cars and dynos..which, the knowledge gained there doesn't always equate to a two stroke ATV tuning.... Is that fair, OJ? Daj... :beer:

OJ....you really do need to get more two stroke banshe tuning under your belt.... I had T5 pipes, pods, +4 timing AND a shaved flywheel...and 330 mains were spot on perfect for my bike, except when I went to Silver Lake Sand dunes....I could've used a 340.... This guy has Shearer pipes...which, again, I know from experiece flow much more through them than T5 pipes as I had.... So...he must compensate accordingly.... He runs in the same temps and elevation....so, 350 would be a perfect starting point... If memory recalls correctly....wasn't it you that said I tell people "ragged edge" and "unsafe" advice??? So the possibility of starting out rich....is that either of those? Trust me...320's in my bike with TOOMEY pipes would've melted it down in time. He'll be perfectly fine with 350s to start...and...safe. :beer:

20 to 22 ft lbs.

Where'd ya get that from? It looks ok...but pales in comparison to the dual out master cylinder you got there...that thing is bad ass for sure! :biggrin:

Do you have a clymers manual by chance? If not...with two banshees it would be more than a wise idea!! Normally once you unhook the TORS, either you'll have spark or you won't. ON some older models, you don't have to twist a wire together....I think... But, i know on 98 and newer you do... I had to twist the wires from the parking brake together... So...I think your electrical problem is somewhere else. I've given you several places to check, including removing ALL the plastic and checking each and every wire, down to removing the electrical tape...I also suggeted removing the flywheel/stator cover and checking for pinched or burned wires...as well as checking the air gap... You need to start responding back with what you've done so we can help you further... :beer:

My buddy has the 04, which is a different motor. The 06 is actually the same motor as the CRF dropped in a quad frame...so, not sure if that's true for 06.

Three dumb questions about the stockers you put back on. 1. Is the choke tube connected between both carbs? 2. Did you put the right bowl on the correct carb? 3. Did you accidentally put the slides in backwards? What have you done to the bike since the last time it ran good?