dajogejr

On average...each cc you go smaller give roughly another 10 to 15PSI...ROUGHLY.... You won't lose that much in compression...probably a few to several PSI...but you won't lose the 40 or so PSI you'd be gaining by going to a 18cc head... Talk to Jeff...he can probably give you a good idea of how little you'll lose due to porting be it a play port, dune port or drag port. Here's the chart that tells roughly how much compression you'll get from domes. Keep in mind, this chart, as said, is on a fresh bore, stock stroke, stock port motor. Scroll halfway down. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

Sorry..I'm south of your border...I'm a Farenheight kina guy... A GENERAL rule of thumb is one main jet size for every 20 to 25 degree decrease in temps (again, Farenheight scale) Normally...we up the mains two to 3 sizes for winter riding here in MI.

That fact alone doesn't even come close to making them a better pipe. I could have a 10 mil Cub or twister running stock pipes that will beat a piped and jetted only banshee...does that mean stock pipes are better? HELL NO!! Mods, weight, tires, gearing, the list goes on and on and on. Do a search on Rocket Pipes...you should have tonz of threads to digest. Plus...they still have a website. http://www.rocketpipes.com/

You need at least a 7mil stroked big bore motor before you start talking big bore pipes. Why don't you just trade your big bore CPIs for some Small bore versions? Sorry...I don't mean to sound like a jerk...but I honestly think those Rockets aren't all they cracked up to be. I know there are some faithful rocket owners here...and that's fine... To each is own! I just think with all the problems of the previous owner, their 5 plus year old design, and the fact you can't change a spark plug or turn your gas off with them, let alone move around on the bike very much... Sorry... I'm not flying blind. I actually demo'd a set last year. Granted, it was a stock motor...but even if they performed better, their design alone turned me off. I'm average height, 6 foot, and anytime I went to move around on my quad...it felt like my knees were smacking into beer kegs under the seat.... HOT beer kegs at that... I know the faithful on here will say it's no problem changing plugs or turning off the gas...but...compared to my Shearers/RDZ or Toomey style, it's WORLDS different... Alright, I said my piece....sorry to rant. Between the previous owner's debacle...and the terrible ergos when I demo'd them...they just seem like bad news....

STOP RIDING that bike NOW. Anytime you do anything to the intake or exhaust, you need to rejet, period. Reeds won't change your main jet, sometimes you have to lean out the needle one clip (one clip towards the blunt end) Honestly, I think VForce reeds are a waste of money until you get porting done on your motor to compliment them. If the stock reeds are shot, pickup some cheap Boysen replacements... Get rid of that boost bottle, it's doing no good...only risking harm. If you use the lid, start with a 260 main jet, stock pilot (25) and middle clip on the needle. Try 1.0 turns out on the air screw to start. If you remove the lid, try a 280 main jet, and the same as above for the rest. I'm taking into consideration you are at or close to sea level (1000ft or less elevation) and normal riding temps for this time of year...which means 65 to 90 degrees....

I have all my vent hoses routed to the same area...the squarish bracket on the back side of the cases, pointing to the ground. An old trick for vent tubes is to cut them at a 45 degree angle, then put two slices all the way through about 1 1/2 inches up... This slice makes it harder for one to get plugged up with dirt/mud/etc.

1. 18cc domes will need race gas unless you're at 4000ft or above. If you're near sea level, stick to 21cc domes. 2. Call Jeff @ FAST racing for the carbs. I can tell you he'll kill Magic's price on those....335 isn't their price, they're 379 and includes a cable. http://www.magicracing.com/Keihin-35PWK-AS...p_731-1567.html Don't forget, you won't just be buying carbs. You'll be buying new intakes, and new boots for the airbox if you plan on keeping it...or, new K&N filters for the back of these carbs. Honestly, if you're gonna go with a drag port, CPI pipes and 35PWKs, you need to ditch that airbox, period.... And...if you're gonna build a drag style/dune style bike, get smaller domes and pony up for the race gas...

Before you buy rockets, I'd let the new owner prove themselves first. I'd take Shearers over Rockets hands down, any day of the week. Better fit and design...period. Also...If you don't have a ported motor don't waste your money... My stock motor'd 96 with just bolt ons ran better with my T5s than the rockets....

Ohm test the stator and coil, see if you can borrow a CDI from someone. Do you have TORS?

Wait your time out, then post this in the nuetral selling forum, give this user a chance to make it right. But, if they don't, you're doing us all a favor by calling him out...so none of us get screwed... A money order, mail, whatever...can make it from Kentucky to TX in LESS than 5 business days, more than likely 2 to 3....

Your jetting is close enough to where it should start. Do a compression check.. Normally, once the piston and rings start to wear and the compression gets lower, it's hard starting..... I don't see you having a shaved or cool head, so...you should be at or around 120 to 130 PSI or so... If you're like 105 or under...or, the two cylinders are 5% different than eachother, it's time for a top end freshen up.... Before you lean out your jetting...check the compression...

Tech help? What do you mean tech help...everytime I call my wallet just opens up and says "NOOOOO".... Seriously...make the call to Jeff...the few bucks more you MAY spend is well worth everything else you talk about and the knowledge he'll share with you, making sure you get exactly what you need to do it right, whether you're on a budget....or an open check book. (It sure seems lately I'm on the latter...huh Jeff?)

Gotcha...just wanted to make sure you weren't sucking dirt/air from not being sealed... Next thing is to do a plug chop...

Put a 260 main in....you're rich on the mains. Put the stock pilot back in, and turn the airscrew all the way in, then .5 turns out. Now that it's all disconnected, you really need to get the removal kit for the TORS. Do you have the pro Flow adapter for the air filter so it seals properly? Fresh gas and oil, fresh spark plugs?

To be honest...and this is just me, I normally leave bigger pilots in and turn out the air screws further...why? Simple. Cause I'm too lazy to pull the choke...to start it cold. And, I don't spend any time (5%) below 1/8 throttle...so, if it's just a little rich, so be it. I just open the throttle a hair when it's warm to start it...and it works just fine. That being said.... If you plan on riding some tighter trails, you'll want to clean up your pilot and air screws. With my T5s I ran both, stock and one bigger pilot (27.5's)...no big deal.

The only thing that gets me is, Moto-Man has been around for a long, long time. Nowhere in this listing does it say anything about getting the head cut, or running a spacer plate... So a normal Joe will just buy this, thinking they got a great deal (which they did) and try to put it all together and it won't work right. Tell you what...call Moto-Man, then call Jeff @ FAST racing. See who you think is going to give you better help and support for your needs. Anyone can sell you parts, when I ordered my cub from Jeff he literally spent an hour on the phone with me making sure I had everything I needed...from seals to bearing to yadda yadda yadda.... You can't put a price on that!

If you kick him on the side and/or he stalls it off the line, that's the only chance in hell you've got. He's got 10 to 15 more HP than you already...and about half the weight.....the outcome won't be good no matter how you slice it....

Yep... get a new mechanic. If you have stock compression and stock timing, you have absolutely NO need for race gas, mixed, straight, whatever.... Your main is way too rich for still having your airbox with the lid removed. You should be in the 280ish range. Stock pilots will be fine. Put your needle back on the middle clip...or, if you have the dynojet needles (longer and skinnier than stock) put it on the fourth clip down from the blunt end.... Put the air screws at 1.5 turns out. 280 mains and needle as mentioned above... It will run better. Try a good 2 stroke oil at 32:1 or 40:1...you'll be in a better starting point. You don't need to go 330s or 340's until you remove the airbox completely....and that's if you're at or around sea level....

1/8 mile asphalt, right? Cool beans... You ever hit the 300ft sand drags, trex?

Ditto...I agree...but, I've always run Maxima Super M in all my two strokes...personal preference... It's easier to measure out 40:1 or 32:1 too...instead of 42:1.... When you start getting more compression and adding timing, then think about race gas...don't waste your money till then.

Did you warm it up on old plugs, put the new ones in, and do a WOT ride through all the gears, or at least until 5th, then kill the engine and pull in the clutch? If not...you need to do that. These plugs look rich to me. That smoke ring near the bottom is what you're looking at...and it's dark, it should be a light tan color if the plug chop is done right.

Bent shift fork and/or shifter out of adjustment. Get a clymers, it'll tell you how to adjust the shifter. With no chain on and in nuetral....it should spin freely by hand....period. If you start it up with no chain on in nuetral, it's normal for it to free spin a little...but not with a chain on up to 10MPH or so....

Sooner if he rides with/against somebody with pipes... :baseball_bat:

You mean this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STROKER-CRA...sspagenameZWDVW Call Jeff at Fast...see what he can do for you. You have two options, run a spacer plate, or get your porting done to match the timings with the longer crank. You will still have to have the head cut, and you should have that crank re-welded by a builder... I know they say they come welded from the factory. PLENTY on here will tell you the factory welds are junk...it needs to be redone. That is a helluva price, though... VPracing is actually moto-man in Canton, MI. You go to his site here: www.moto-man.com

I'd rather trust mine to a builder and pay a few bucks more. Sure...anyone can weld, but doing it right from a builder is really the better way. I'd say you should be able to have that done for under 100 including shipping....