dajogejr

What's there to make work? If it is perfect with the factory shift star...why change it???

What??? You've never seen Mikuni's or Keihin's setup for alky? Where have ya been?? :shrug: Austin...Alky is a great mod. It's cheaper than race gas, runs much cooler, etc. However, you're going to go through twice as much as you would gas...and you have to purge the system after your don riding. Sure, you can ride all weekend and wait a day or so after you get home, but...good idea to do it soon. You don't want that stuff sitting in your tank (it absorbs moisture out of the air like crazy...) If you plan on staying out all day on a tank or at least a few hours...it just ain't gonna happen. Jets for alky are HUGE.... And I agree...if you're gonna run it, RDZ makes larger float bowls, that and a fuel pump are a good idea. You're just building that bike.... I think alky should be on the list after you ride it on gas...and get used to it first....

Good for you...odd though. Normally, if a CDI goes bad, the bike wont' start period. Glad you got it sorted...time to find a used CDI for that guy....or you could spend a hundred bucks and get a replacement CDI from Magic...or a brand new one from Ricky Stator for 125....

Check the plugs again once you do that, I'd say you'd be safe with one up on the main....

Lean out the clip one spot. One towards the blunt end. If it's between gears....as long as you're not lugging the piss out of it, you'll probably have to clean it up with the needle. Or...buy a real air filter, a K&N or a Foam filter....stock is garbage...

Yeah...I'd call him out....since they haven't replied yet to this thread...or obviously haven't tried to make it right with you yet...call 'em out.

You have got the steal of a century if that comes through. Look at all his other auctions via Feedback. They're all bike parts, mostly all plastic, etc. Seems legit...maybe he just didn't know what it was worth...good thing you do. I would've bought that in a heart beat, turned around and sold it for 150...and the buyer STILL would've gotten a good deal. You stole it...good for you!

You can do two things. Imageshack can downsize them for you. Or...you can download a FREE program called Easy Thumbnail Creator, which does a superb job of shrinking pictures too. My 6.1 MP Digital SLR makes some pretty big photos....it comes in handy quite a bit.

Yeah...but he didn't exactly get a clean cut on those plugs. Who knows if the blade or shell smeared the mark a little... I think he's just fine. Now ride it a while, new plugs take a while to color. After a bit, check 'em again (no need to chop em). I'd bet the tip of the insulator is a nice tan-ish color...which, means your fine.

GO to imageshack.us You can upload as many as you want, and use the hotlink for forums, cut and paste into your reply...much easier.

I'd say you're about perfect to maybe a HAIR rich. If it runs and revs out clean to 6th gear, don't touch a thing. Better to be a tad rich than lean...

Here they are...fresh outta the sink. You can see where the stock rubber V was cut of for VForce reed cage clearance. I even have allen bolt tightening screws instead of those POS phillips screws. You'll need new gaskets, and it's a smart idea to use a thin coat of hi temp RTV to seal these. I will PM you with my papal address...is that cool?

Man...you're really gonna make me go in the garage, look at my animal sitting there....while I dig through a box? Well...ok, I guess I can... Back in a few....

Red Loctite? Whooaa boy...hope you never plan on getting those off. You're gonna have to heat 'em up and ruin 'em if you do... With Nylock nuts, blue loctite would've been just fine. It does look nice and clean though...I might have to ditch my setup...should be worth at least .0001 in the 300 ft, right??

Justin, don't waste time on header tape...go right to cascade, and get the heat shields. Make sure you get the right ones for big bore or small bore pipes...here ya go. http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...ORE_DEPT_ID=168

I because you're gonna constantly have gas/oil and air flowing over them...replace them. If you were in a pinch, you might be able to use some silicone or epoxy...but, do you really want to chance sucking that stuff into your motor...? Not a wise idea... I think I may have stock intakes sitting at my house, but...the rubber V's are cut smooth for VForce Reeds. If I have 'em, and you want 'em...they're yours. Pay for the ride...they do me no good at all. No crossover tube...sorry, using it now. Thank you...Thank you...yet another story as to why Boost bottles are a waste and are more trouble than the 20 bucks you spend on 'em. I kinda suspected an air leak, since you went so radical on your jetting with no avail... If you want, Bill, I'll check when I get home for the stock intakes... Just gotta plot through the garage....

You'll probably need to lean it out more than one jet to go from sea level to 3500-4000 feet. I'd bet if you use the holy airbox lid and drop the main 2 sizes...it'll be close. Leave the needle as is...or maybe even one clip leaner (2nd clip from blunt end) Chances are...you can adjust the air screw out a 1/2 to one turn to make up for the elevation changes on the pilot circuit.

If you did the plug chop properly, and the base of the insulators are white, your main is still lean. Your pilot circuit has NO effect in jetting after 1/8 throttle or so. Now...since your pilot was jacked, it'd be a good time dissasemble each carb, one at a time, COMPLETELY, remove all jets, and clean teh bejesus out of 'em. If the passages are clogged up...there's no point in continuing to try and jet it out....it needs to be clean to start for accurate plug readings.

You can go to imageshack.us to post a picture easily. A price never hurt...either. Free bump, sounds like a nice quad...

You should be fine. I'd put the needle back to the stock setting (middle). Have you done a proper plug chop yet? get new plugs. Warm the bike up good on old ones. Change 'em. Go for a WOT run at least through 5th gear and pull the clutch in, kill the ignition. Here's more on that: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Remove the other one, match it up at a dealer or hardware store. Shipping on it will be more than what the spring is worth....

If these two don't work out...I've got one off my 96, mint shape....no rad. neck on it though. 20.00 and pay for the ride...shipped via Fed Ex. (probably 8 bucks for Fed Ex...)

Your jetting is close. What kind of oil are you running, and at what mixture? When is the last time you did a compression check?

I agree...3 and 3 with an EZ Pull perch and lever is the way to go. You only have some bolt on parts, no porting, etc. Once you start getting into the 60 to 65+HP range...then you'll need the stiffies... I ran Jeff from FAST's clutch all year last year on my stock motor, T5'd bike with 3 and 3. I'm using the same clutch this year on my 4 mil cub, more than twice the HP of my old motor, same clutch, all 6HD springs, and it's holding up quite nicely. No need to kill your forearms and fingers for a basic bolt on motor... :beer:

Longer term...you going to sell it or keep it as a project? If you're gonna sell it, get the crank done the right way...as said above. It ain't worth much not running... If you're gonna keep it and make it a project later....ride it. You already know what it costs for a new top end...so, if you smoke the motor, figure another top end and a new crank...possibly cases. Your money, your time....your call.