dajogejr

Swap spark plug wires, do a compression test.

Buy the right oil... 100 is low. You'll probably have to kick it a few times to get her to fire. You're about ready for a fresh top end....now, or before it breaks apart and costs even more....choice is yours...

The stock coolant bottle location traps air/coolant in the line....it is possible this is what you're seeing. Check the coolant level in your radiator.... If it's fine...you should be ok... If not....you might have a bad water pump..

I think they're too pricey...to be honest, Big Boy... There's a real nice thread on PS...not painting a good picture of Andy... There is no doubt Grand River makes some good stuff, but...a little humility would be nice... I mean, c'mon...he might break both arms patting himself on the back...

PM Big Red. he just made his own 16cc domes....and he's at 7500 ft.... He might be interested in making you a set...never hurts to ask. And on that note....what elevation are you at...letha?

Not as much bottom as CPI, most definately no bottom compared to Fatties. If you're gonna dune and drag, these pipes are fine. If you're gonna trail ride...they're not for you...but, then again...CPI really aren't either.... I've never rode a shee with CPIs.... I've rode plenty with Toomeys. Bills, Pro Circuits and FMF.... T5's are my favorite all around pipe...but, I was missing HP and breathing on my cub, and I got my pipes for a steal...so, there they are!

Brother Jeffro...good choice. :beer: I will tell you...the chrome isn't the greatest, unless you get Show Chrome...but, I'm more than happy with mine. They hit like a sunovabitch....and rev FOREVER... When he isn't so busy...and I'm done riding for a week or two, I'm gonna have Rocketboy shave my flywheel. I think the pipes I have now are similar to my old T5's. More power and more rev, of course...but, the power delivery is very similar. When I put the plate and boonman flywheel (since had to replace...) on it....I absolutely loved the bike.... Click on the pic in my sig...and you tell me how much easier the plugs (and gas) are to get to...

110 is getting to be rebuild time soon.... That's what I started at beginning of season last year (I'm less than 1000ft elevation)... I'd bet it doens't start first kick like it should....or it won't soon. However...mine would normally start 4 to 6 kicks cold, run like a raped ape...and 1st kick warm. You'll probably be safe with a 21cc dome and noss head when it's rebuild time, and...you'll have a cooler running bike with that head as well. The only true way to know is get the rebuild done, and check compression!! Lightened flywheel and +4 timing made my old motor much, MUCH more trail friendly w/ my old T5s...I loved it!!

Sell 'em and get Shearers....better fit, cheaper than CPI and GRR...and make more peak power than CPI...and nearly as much as GRR...

Truthfully....reeds won't give you any seat of the pants feeling HP. You might get a pony or two on a dyno... What they will do is give you snappier throttle response. Some people take that for going faster...when actually it's just running cleaner and peppier...

Misinterpretation on my part....sorry Dub... No harm, no foul... :beer:

Correct. Ask any builder on here, they will tell you they re-weld hot rod cranks...or pretty much any crank that goes out. I'd also invest in a good quality TZ or Maxload PTO side bearing as well. Insurance is priceless...

Buy the boysen replacement reeds for stock cages. When you get some porting done...then go with Vforce...they will shine more. Good luck getting your hand on a set of VF2's....VF3's are all that's made now...

Could be either...normally, the float will leak out the overflow tube on the bottom if it's set too high...so, you probably need to make sure the gasket and surfaces are clean when you put them back together....

No pipe I've ever seen uses them....they actually get in the way in putting some pipes on... I cut one off to get my old T5's on....

Used to be the case...not any more. Most weekends they randomly test... Last year...any weekend but holidays you were good to go... I just wonder how long it'll be before they start testing them out in the dunes or at the strip...I bet it's not long. Too many peoople load 'em up in the truck and take them out there....

Get a moto 2 into 1. I rode a friends with that and a milled head only, much better than stock...peppier, and not much noisier...asswhore, I'm surprised you said 100Db... We're in MI, it's 94 or 96 db most the places I ride (Used to ride Mounds...SUCKS...) No way a piped shee is coming in that low. Only thing you can do is wait till the DNR isn't testing, and get out to the dunes!! At least they only test at like 2000 or 2500 RPM... Could you imagine how bad it'd be if they start testing at like ...5 or 6K? PW50's could barely pass... I found this on Silver Lake's info, right from the DNR...good thing they're a little lax on it. ( A maximum noise level of 94 Db(A), or the current EPA emissions limit, shall be met. The testing provisions of current SAE J 1287, June 93 standard for ATV and motorcycle vehicles and SAE J 1169, March 93 for all other vehicles shall be followed and all vehicles shall pass a stationary sound level test. The stationary sound level test shall be administered from a 0.5 meter (19.69 inches) distance at one-half the engine

No prob....typing on a board doesn't always show attitude, sarcasm or wit....It's all good. You sled jockeys have a whole other ball to deal with, clutch engagment, cog gearing, spring rate, etc.... That's an endless loop there...but, fun as all hell.

Are you saying with prodesign intakes, or stock? I'm talking about stock...and the weight will crack the rubber on STOCK manifolds, right....Bill? Bill... I would use aluminum for a few reasons, easier to shape and bend...and, of course lighter.

A few things... By hijacking the original poster's thread, which started out being a GEARING question...and you come out of left field asking about a CDI...I honestly thought you were trying to be a smart ass. So...I left a smart ass comment as well.... That being said...even though you should post your own thread elsewhere....since you hijacked this and it is TOTALLY unrelated, there is no rev limiter on a stock CDI ...or any other 2 stroke CDI for that matter...(ok...I"m sure there may be a few out there, few and far between....) The port design, compression, exhaust design, intake, fuel delivery and a few other factors dictate when the motor will stop revving. Fourstrokes, however....need a rev limiter... Often they will float valves if revved too high without the proper valvetrain installed. Hope that helps....

Missed that part...sorry... I just saw the star....

Although he'll never have as many indoor titles as MC, overall...he is by far the best rider to date. MC can't even think about all the outdoor titles and races RC has done, let alone not one but TWO perfect seasons outdoors, on two different brand bikes. Broome-Tioga Sports Center 450: Ricky Carmichael. Today is a day for the records for Ricky Carmichael. He won his 143rd combined AMA Supercross/Motocross national event. A record. He won his 15th AMA National Championship. A record. He won his 10th straight outdoor championship (dating back to 1997). Ricky Carmichael! Ricky Carmichael! Ricky Carmichael! Ricky Carmichael!

No. But you will have to take off the clutch cover and basket/plates to do so.

It depends on what kind of boost bottle you have... Rebel... I'm running 14/41 now, 21 inch haulers, 72 inch rollout, starting out in 2nd for my drag racing. I'm switching to 15/41 this weekend, and gonna start out in 1st....

I used an air chisel on mine, came right off. Then...use a grinder or a file to smooth them out.. I'm planning on a frame up redo this winter, powder coat, whole 9 yards....then I'll really get rid of all the brackets, extra crap....etc.