dajogejr

Duh...yep, my bad. Start with 330 mains. Clip in the middle position, stock pilots (25) and 1.5 turns on the air screw. that should get you ballpark... Probably a hair rich on the main, but...that's better for starters.

And your elevation and riding temps would be???

I can tell you the Toomey pipes fit and finish-wise are about second to none. They don't do any one thing the best, they just do everyting very well. RNBRAD is a big guy on the Trinity pipes...he can chime in on them. I was very happy with my Toomeys, and hopefully fastcar01 is happy with 'em too (just bought 'em a month ago or so...) They just werent' the right pipe for my new motor... Powerwise, you're not going to be dissapointed in either.

Once you go cub....you're gonna spend a lot more than you think. And kiss the trails goodbye for a cub. BigRed350X said it best, cubs give you a whole lot of the wrong kind of power for trails. I've been through this...once you go cub, you're a duning and drag race kinda bike...period. That being said...you have to make the decision... If you just wanna dune and drag, get the head with 21cc domes. You're gonna need other domes anyways if you go big bore cub....but the head is a good invesment. Now...if you decide you're not gonna go cub, get a good dune port on your stock cylinders...and some smaller domes and run race fuel. If you're gonna run cubs....see my sig for the mods you'll want. You probably don't need all the ignition mumbo jumbo...but, I wanted it...and got it... T5s and a single 35PWK are really going to choke that motor out, period... Then, you'll need a longer swinger, which changes the suspension setup drastically.... there's a good few threads on here for what guys have done once they've gone cubs...and how much money it really costs...

Clean air filters? Clean carbs? New Plugs? Fresh Gas? Choke tube in place between carbs? A rat crawl in the exhaust...

Contact Jeff @ FAST, Sand Toyz Unlimited, A&S racing, GRR Racing, RDZ racing... One of the big name shops has gotta have 'em. Most of the racers prefer the 2's over the threes....

150 is borderline needing a mix of pump/race gas. if it's jetted properly, and you've been running it this way for a year...I'd say you're ok. Bumping to 180 would obviously need race gas, as said...for more money. However...is it worth it? You'd probably feel a little in the seat of the pants. List all your mods... And, have you had your crank trued and welded? Also...I'm assuming you have an aftermarket head with changable domes...for the cost of a set of domes, 60 or 70 beans...you could always switch back and sell the domes for minimal investment if you didn't feel it was worth it...right?

Sorry...Duc... I'm jealous, I wish I could find a wide open space like that. I pulled a ton of passes at the 300ft sand drags, no problems. I guess the first time I get to Silver Lake I'll have to tell you!!! Have you tried straight water, by any chance??

Have them fix it...since you're on such a tight time frame. Also...have them test teh compression. My buddy used an el cheapo tester on his triple sled. Each cylinder was off from the next by like 15 to 25 lbs. It shouldn't have even ran....but, with a snap on tester, mint...within 2 to 3 lbs of each other and it has 8K miles on it....

Yep...looks like it replaces the stationary lower roller... I'm only at +6 now, but...once I go 8 or 10...I've been thinking about this too... Let us know, Chase...

Bought my stock instakes...after ripping his, damn boost bottle. Paid quickly via Money Order...had it in my mailbox in two days. Quick to communicate...thanks for clearing out my garage a little more...

I'm sure you'll agree it's not the best shifting bike in the first place....more ponies (think drag porting or cub/trex/cheetah cylinders) only expose this more.... Mine shifted ok, not great, when I had just bolt ons and my stock motor... It's barely ok with my cub setup...granted I'm pushing more than twice the power I was before...

Sorry to say...but cancel your trip unless you're gonna burn the midnight oil. A few things might have happend if you JUST put this together. Wrong or improper bore size/piston used...or improper clearances. Do you have the arrow on tops of the pistons facing the exhaust port? Did you put the rings on the pistons correctly (Making sure each of the rings was correctly seated around the alignment pin) Did you use new or old base gaskets and/or head gasket? I'd get new base and head gaskets...have the cylinders and pistons mic'd for proper clearance, and use some yamabond on the base gasket, light light coat. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry before doing any work... Torque 'em down, and try it again. Second, what kind of compression tester are you using? If it's an el cheapo...you could be getting bad readings. Craftsman carries a small engine compression tester for about 50 or 60 bucks, might be a worthwhile investment, as well.... If all this turns out ok....you need to get a leak down tester....

Billet impeller and straight water in mine....no issues.... And I've got decent compression...round 180 or so and a boatload of timing, too.

Make sure your clutch is in adjustment, make sure the clutch is in good shape. What kind of tranny oil are you using? Get a clymers, and make sure the shifter is adjusted properly....after that, welcome to the banshee world. Wait till you start pushing some real ponies (say...70 plus or so)...they really shift like shit. That's why a dunable override is going in my bike very soon....

Kinda... flip that same hose 180 degrees...so the plastic is at the bottom. Then, twist it a bit before you tighten it down for a little extra clearance.

Stock carbs will actually pull more than that....on a set of cubs...

Flip the lower hose around. That plastic springy looking shield is enough....then, before you tighten the lower clamp down, twist the hose on the inlet neck to where you have a small air gap between the pipe and the hose. You'll be fine.... Honestly, you're plugs look fine....

Ain't that the truth... Between a picture of chase's leg...and csr riding naked, I'm afraid this thread has definately taken a turn for the worse.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Seriously.... There's times when I won't ride cause it's too hot out, but if I did...I sure wouldn't be bitching about burning my legs because I just had to wear shorts to be comfortable... Do yourself a favor, don't ever buy inframe drag pipes, CPI, Shearer or Rockets.... If you're burning your legs on T5's, you'd probably find a way to burn your nutsack on those....

I think you were just a little more careful chopping your plugs....

Sharp lookin Bike Justint... I'm working on a good running bike this year, a good looking one after the season!! Those footpegs are badass...

.020 over. You shouldn't have to change jetting if it's correct now...but, it's gonna run hotter, keep that in mind with more compression. Check your plugs if you do shave you head.

Toomey's stick out? Are you kidding???? They're tame compared to other pipes out there. Here's an idea...since it's leaving "skin" on the pipes...try long pants...jeans, etc. Keep the kid rides on the 4X4 ute quads, or let them ride on back... The only issue I EVER had on mine was a rain suit, last year....and the legs were bulky and flappy...and they melted onto the pipes. I've never burnt my legs on Toomey's.... I think the company is called DeVol that makes nice pipe wraps... I know they do for bikes...I'm sure they can be used for quads as well. Looks like more of a protector than a heat shield.... https://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item....=662&division=6

What compression are you at the way it sits right now? First, you need to find that out. Depending on where you're at (elevation)...you could probably go .020 and be ok.

BS... Spend the extra 40 to 70 bucks and have a reputable builder do it right, and if you can...get a maxload or TZ bearing installed on the PTO side. You don't need a 10 mil cub to push 100HP... A 4mil will do that all day long with the right carbs, pipes, compression and timing. Or you could just spend about a grand and get a Twister Crankshaft...no need to weld those.... I'll agree with 04le...stock stroke, stock welded cranks are just as good...and that's a fair price for it, as long as the bearings are in good shape (I'm sure 04le wouldn't sell it otherwise... ) :beer: