dajogejr

You have to get the head cut...regardless. If you run a spacer plate, you can run stock pistons with a cut head. If you run 795's you don't have to run a spacer plate, but you still need the head cut...and the port timings will be way off... If your budget allows...I'd go aftermarket stroker crank as well. But...if you're tight on funds, just get your stocker welded, and I'd put new bearings on it as well. TZ or maxload for the PTO side.

It's called a powerjet...and it's priceless for meth. Dave Moore Racing makes nice ones...but you can get them from a number of places... They're also known as dial-a-jets. I have 'em on mine. They're kinda pointless on gas...but, I plan on running mine on the ice this summer...and the idea of just turning the little top instead of rejetting again and again for the cold temps just sound much more appealing.....

Being a man and leaving it up there, not editing your post is more impressive. Shit happens bro...that's sometimes why it's better to walk away, have a cold one....and work on it later.... My friend who redid my motor for me keeps telling me meth...meth...meth.... When you think about it, you're not really saving money...since you burn twice as much. But...my fear is being at the dunes, running out...and that would be just my luck, too.....

ATV software comes on CD. The kit comes with a cable too... I don't know if it's serial or USB...but, it plugs directly into the Dyna.... For 150 shipped...shit, if I had the money I'd buy it for a backup. That's a steal.

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Sure can... Someone wanna jump in on this and explain the dif between A/S and normal PWK carbs. I know they're quad vented...but, what's the dif? Slide type, etc???

Yep...fun indeed!! I had mine setup yesterday at the strip with 15/41 gearing...leaving in 1st. Just didn't feel right, so I went back to 14/41...much better. Yeah, 101 temps is hot, no matter how you cut it... Just put alky on it, that'll solve all issues...Ducman... You might be a candidate for a larger radiator I'd say...when it gets 90 plus here, with all that humidity...it stays in the garage... Something about sweating your arse off while you're putting on pants, boots and a helmet before you even kick start it...just say no way for me...

Check for an air leak. Buy a leakdown tester....PM Machwon on this board. I THINK his kit is around 50 bucks or so. I redid my motor a while ago. Trail rode it, sucked water...popped a crank seal. Instead of doing a leak down test (I needed an excuse to buy the goodies and justify it to myself) I bought they Dyna, VForce, Nology, 35PWks....and low and behold it still didn't run any better. Oh, and a brand new stator, too. I kinda knew in the back of my head it was something more...but, I had a few extra bucks...and these were parts I wanted anyways. Let me guess...starts pretty good, it seems to free rev ok when it's in Nuetral...but, you put it in gear and go to take off it falls on it's face? No matter WHAT jetting you tried, it didn't make a LICK of difference, did it? You need to first remove all plastic...and trace down every wire in your harness, include the on/off kill switches. If they don't come up with any cut, burnt or frayed wires....you need to test for leakdown. PM Machwon...he'll give you all the details of his kit....

Yep..icing on the cake. Since you've already gotten porting, pipes and carbs out of the way...it would probably be a good investment for you...IF you have time/money to spend to get the max out of it for YOUR particular motor. Out of the box...I'd say nothing special performance-wise...but you could easily unlock 5 to 8 ponies with an hour or two spent on the dyno... That's a pretty good invesment, HP per dollar....

I bought my Nology Coil AND hotwires from Jeff @ FAST racing. Honestly, I know when I'm getting a deal and I don't like to advertise pricing for others unless it's their day in, day out price....I've purchased a few thousand bucks of stuff off him, I know he's cutting me good prices. Call him, see what he can do for you.... The wires are a must have...they're bad ass!!! By the way...so you know. Dyna says use resister plugs with their CDI. Nology says use non-resistor with their hotwires. So....I'm running resistor plugs, run of the mill BR8ES....with the Dyna and Nology...no issues at all!

Hopefully...you still have your stock CDI...try the stock CDI back.

Ha ha ha... Free bump... John, when I saw that seat I was thinking the same thing.... But, I saw a few snow pictures, So I figured you might have raped a snowmobile seat to work for that banshee... I'm gonna put an old bannana bicycle seat on mine....it would be a close second to that... :yelrotflmao:

Buddy...you ain't lying.... Dunable overrides just started to come around and be tested lately. Standard overrides have been around for a long time. Standard Override: Allows upshifting under full power without using the clutch, in the cut gears (2-5, whatever)... HOWEVER...you MUST pull the clutch in BEFORE you let off the gas. If the motor is not pushing the bike, you have to pull the clutch... You might be able to get away with it once...by accident. It will bend shift forks if you don't. Dunable Override... All the benefits of above, but...you can use it like a normal tranny. Let off the gas, use the clutch...putz around. But...when it's time to drag race, you can bang gears without a clutch. The ONLY drawback, if it's done right...it's a little more money. But, not much. My advice is a 1-5 Dunable override... You're going to lose 6th gear anyway you look at it. Alky is gonna be my next step...maybe after this season. The carbs have to be modd'ed to flow alky, you have to run about twice as much alky through your motor as gas...but, it will run cooler, and you'll get a 8 to 20 percent increase in power....all depends on how well you tune it in. Kehin carbs can be convereted to alky pretty easily, but can not be converted back. Once you drill out the dump tube, it can't be replaced. Mikuni's can be converted back and forth. If you went to the dunes every weekend....you'd need to purge your system when you got done riding...or once you get home. Some people make a huge deal out of purging, but it's really not that big of a deal... It's not like "if you shut your bike off for 2 hours to go eat and come back you gotta purge it or anything...".... Hope this helps. Daj...

I leave my plate at 8 all the time, and normally use the out of the box curve 3 on my dyna...at lower RPMs(5 to 7500RPM or so)...that puts me near 29 or so degrees of total advance...and as the RPMs rise....the advances lessens from the Dyna.... This setup works great. Cub motors LOVE timing and compression, though...and I run straight leaded 110 all day long. Before you start getting silly...you have a checklist to do. Welded crank? Forged aftermarket pistons (not cast stockers)....proper jetting, good compression from proper clearances, etc.... When you start "putting the screws to the motor"...what wasn't right before (off jetting, weak component) gets magnified a lot quicker.... A shaved flywheel compliments that timing advance very well...too.

Take your pick. Normally, they're 260 to 270ish...and less than 10 shipping. http://search.ebay.com/banshee-dyna_W0QQfromZR40

That's actually backwards. Warm it up to operating temps. Pull both plugs, hold the throttle WOT and keep on kicking until the needle won't go anymore.... It will normally read a few pounds more when warm....due to heat/expansion and better sealing. You can take a cold and hot reading...but, any compression spec for maintenance or replacement is based on a hot reading....

I would test it with another ohm meter. when I tested mine, it was 17 and 117 I think... I'd make sure it's spark related first...did you pull a plug and kick it to see if you could see a nice blue spark jumping the gap? When's the last time you rode it? Does it have fresh plugs and fresh gas/oil in it? Have you done any mods since the last time you ran it, or just recently?? Gotta have spark, fuel and compression....then narrow it from there. You can send your coil and stator to Ricky Stator, they will be happy to test it for you free of charge, as well..they have the best prices on Stators...

No matter what mods you have, the plug chop should be the same coloring. Generally...with no airbox and pipes, near sea level with temps in the 65 to 90 degree range, 340ish is average. The porcelin insulator nose can take some time to color, but...if a plug chop is done and done right, it will color right away. If not, you're lean. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

If he's putting any power to the ground at all...I'm sure he's got a wheelie bar... Red...I wish I could've gotten film of this guy yesterday taking off on his 10mil at the track. Seriously...this bike was F*ing retarded... THe question is...when is the last time you ran it....and what else have you done to your bike. Temp/air changes since last time? Try something new on your bike?? 'round here....it was muggy as all hell yesterday. My bike is jetted just a bit rich, but yesterday It was loading up just a bit after several runs and idling back to the starting line...so, I had to change plugs once yesterday.... There's a ton of reasons... Maybe you had more air pressure before, and the tires weren't hooking as good....lower tire pressure is letting them hook better. How bout a list of mods, including gearing setup....to start some help!!

You can get them all day long for 280 or so. If they'll shave the price...get it. It's a great icing on the cake.... However.... I already had a big motor built and a nology coil. It truly was icing.... Out of the box, they're ok... Here's the price issue. It's 100 bucks for the CD software and cable to hook the dyna up to the laptop, pay for dyno time, etc. If you have the money...you can get some good performance gain out of it. I've heard 3 to 8 HP once you tune some curves in. Andy at Grand River Racing supposedly has a fantastic pre-program already setup for them...and I think the charge is around 40 bucks or so.... I"m probably going to go that route...I don't have the time to screw around with programming it and getting to a dyno...etc. It also paves the way for future mods, if you want to get heavier into drag racing. Programmable shift light, NOS engagement...etc. Out of the box it's not going to be a huge deal though....like I said, I'd consider it icing on the cake, you gotta have the cake first...

Hey....freak... A few things. You might want to put this in the "wanted" section for quicker response, also.... T5 and T6 pipes aren't exactly what you'd call top end pipes. I'd call them mid and up pipes...trail pipes, dune pipes, etc. Top end...or drag racing pipes are Shearer, Grand River, CPI, Rockets.... More overall power, if the motor is setup right...but in a narrower powerband.

I vote coil. Normally, when you swap leads and it follows the leads, it's the coil. For a cheap, quick fix....replace the end caps on the spark plug leads. They're known to go. I have two used stock coils I'd be happy to part with one of them if you'd like. There is no way to test the CDI that I know of.... Ricky Stator has a brand new CDI for 125...stay away from the stealership on those. PM me if you'd like...I can get one out to via Fed Ex tomorrow!

Stock carbs can be setup to run alky... However.... Since they're so small, and as I'm sure you're aware....you need to flow twice as much alky as you do gas, they're not the first choice. 33 to 35's are the normal choice for recreational/part time drag racers... Hard core drag racers go 39 and way up from there.... Head over to planetsand.com. They could probably help you better with that alky setup. However, you're going to get quite a few "you should get bigger carbs too" thrown in there....

You're jetting seems about right on for me...if you're at or around sea level and normal riding temps for this time of year....say 65 to 90 or so. You need to do a plug chop. The insulator nose can be deceptive.... Check out this for more info: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

You're getting ready to head out of town and work a gazillion hours with OT....I think you should dontate the funds to a fellow rider....lol... :beer: Have a safe trip out of town....good luck if you're going racing today!