dajogejr

Just to be clear...that is not a recycling system. It will NOT suck coolant back into the radiator...like a car. It only blows over into there.... I relocated mine to the front of the frame so air/coolant doesn't get trapped in the line. However, I'm one step away from removing it... My old CRs never needed/had an overflow bottle....

GET a Clymers.... It explains it all in there.... You basically have to scrunch down the spring, flip it upside down so the retainer clip falls out...then shimmy the cable out. Two phillips screws hold the cable tower down. Remove 'em...remove the needle...change the clip, then reverse this order. If you are able to put pipes on and remove the airbox...you can jet your carbs.

Let us know how it works out chase, before I have to call a scientific symposium to figure the angle of the dangle....and so on... At the very least, it is as good as the stock roller...and I'm sure it can't hurt....

So...through the Ebay Email the guy who owns the account told me about the sham. Here's the dickbag's response from my own personal (junk mail) email account. Thought you'd all love this... Oh...and by the way...the first phone number is for the Internet Fraud Hotline, the second is the FBI Detroit branch. Ya just gotta have fun sometimes...ya know? I hope he emails me back.... On 8/29/06, Sellerxn@aol.com <Sellerxn@aol.com> wrote: Hi, The price is $2,900 US dollars(I can afford to sell it at this price because I've buy it for a lowest price from a bankrupt company). I am from Chicago, Illinois. We will do this deal under eBay and our transaction will be supervised by eBay Security Center and eBay Safe harbor team. You will send the money to eBay representing using Western Union and after you will receive and inspect it, you must contact eBay to give me the money (If you are satisfied).If you don't want it after inspection, just contact eBay and cancel our deal and you will receive your money back. It's easy and safe. If you want to buy it please let me know and let's start our transaction. Thank You Thomas My Response: Sorry...doesn't sound as safe to me. How about I meet you with a Certified Check or Money order on site...and we can both walk away safely and paid. Why don't you call me at work so we can discuss this transaction. Work is toll free: 800-313-9619, extension 1469 Cell is:313-965-2323 I look forward to hearing from you. Ben D'Houver

Are those silenced or unsilenced, Ty? (Sorry...didn't see the pic for a while).. I wasn't sure how old they were, either... Those GRRs are LOUD!!.... Austin, as long as you don't have any noise restrictions where you're gonna ride, I'd say pick 'em up....Clark boys won't steer you wrong.... Daj...

I'd shave the flywheel and leave it alone until you get it apart. It'd be wise to get the stock crank welded if you're going to increase the compression... So....save the dough, ride the piss out of it... Then, fresh top end, porting and a welded crank. Depending on how aggressive you get the porting, you may want to get a different pipe better suited to it. I'd stay away from 18cc domes until you weld the crank... You can buy the cool head now, get 21cc domes for a bump in performance and better cooling. You can probably still run pump gas, too. I'd wait till it's tear down time to get into it any more than that...though.

I wasn't looking for ponies out of my nology, I wanted a reliable part for my motor. After spending all this mony on my cub motor....I wanted all new ignition as well. I think of it as why use old laces for new shoes...? Coil, Dyna...stator....and I know my ignition is mint... And... That coil might be part of the 1% of Brad's bike that isn't Chrome or polished... I'm surprised he didn't put some Chrome or reflective tape over that "plan ol' black" looking coil... The judges will give a slight deduction for that... :yelrotflmao:

Personally, I'd go with Shearer out of Frames or Grand River.... They'll both be a better drag pipe. If it were a duner/drag bike, a single 35 or 38 would be ok... Since you said flat out drag, you'll want duals, and I'd go dual 39's with methanol.... And Black Banshee....I'm not knocking Jim's work at all....he builds motors that run pretty hard. But...do yourself a favor and call Jeff too....(His post is above mine, FAST racing.) After talking to both, getting pricing for both, you'll know you've explored some options.... I talked to quite a few people before and after I went with Jeffo....I know I made the right decision in calling him and getting products from him. Don't forget, I live in Michigan. Within a few hour drive we have RDZ, Tyson Racing, Grand River, A&S and a few others. These guys are all top name builders in the drag world, and build fast bikes. There is no disputing that... It's Jeff's pricing and customer service that sold me, and it was customer service long after buying my parts that keeps me coming back to him for most of my goods....

A. Do a search. B. Get a Clymers.... Seriously, it's not tough at all..but, no one is going to write 3 or 4 paragraphs of a walkthrough...I"m sure it's already been done.

Think about an automatic chain tensioner on a 4poke.... They work...regardless.... Whether you're on the gas (accelerating) or off it...right? Right now, there's no chain tensioner...just a upper and lower roller....as the suspension pivots. I think it's a great idea....

Those would probably be great for duning (not jumping) and some drag racing. You're going to feel like you're on a pogo stick otherwise.... If you plan on jumping....4 inches? You kidding me? I don't care how stiff they are....you might as well have just put struts on it....

Ha ha ha..... Lucky for me I type pretty darned fast... If I had to hunt and peck on a keyboard for all this BSing, I'd still be here replying to it...oh well. I'm sure he's a good kid that means well, and believe it or not I do admire his passion for his beliefs, blind as they may be....but, there are a few ways to handle things and say things....he picked that "other" way.... :shrug:

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get the pink panther corning insulation....cheap and flat out works just fine. A LOT of people run that for their packing.

For the money you spend, I think we all know dollar for dollar, the cubs are hard to beat. If you're set against buying...and money is no object (it better not be) go with a twister setup. They're not nearly as common as a cub, they run strong, look kickass...but, you're going to pay out the ass for it. For a mere 13,500 you could get a triple billet cylinder triple twister, complete with ignition, carbs and pipes ready to bolt in..... Get you diapers on...you're gonna shat yourself when you hit it....

There's a little jump in price going from a 4 mil to a 7 ...no difference really in a 7 to 10. I'd go 10 all the way on alky, and I'd look to see if they make a super cub in a 10 mil stroke. I know they make a 72mm bore for teh 4 mil supercub....a 72 mm bore with 10mil stroke would be an absolute animal!!

DMC...that snow vid is kick ass.... Ty...I'm surprised you don't use your grooved/chopped kendas in the snow. I figured they'd paddle through quite nicely... Wait...do they even have snow in MO???? Ya know we get dumped on in MI... :yelrotflmao: I'm going to pickup (make that borrow) a set of cut turf tamers that have 1 inch carbide studs in them for the ice racing this year... The guy that made 'em used fender washers...and these studs don't move at all.... I can't wait to get out on the ice...but, I'm ready for a dune trip or two first!!

Fatty's and a K&N that drops in the airbox? 10HP...maybe. Put the front back to stock...you'll be geared too tall and not enough motor to pull it in tight trails. You're on a banshee with two carbs...gas mileage ins't in the equation anymore.... If you think it's fast now...wait till you get bored with just pipes and dip into porting...that's the big difference maker there. There are two more cheap and excellent mods to help you with trails, and all around. Lighten the flywheel, and while you have it off, buy an adjustable timing plate. For about 100 bucks, you can have both and they are great, great mods. You'll be safely rich if temps rise a bit... These bikes don't have much down low, but...by shaving the flywheel and advancing the timing, it will rev faster and get on the pipe quicker...a good all around mod.

As long as it's hardpack and some paddle type tires (realtors, spyder tracs, etc.) you'd be ok. You'll be up to the frame in no time as soon as it turns to powder. The colder the air the more fuel you need to burn with it. In general...you'll have to jet one size larger on the main jet for every decrease in 25 degrees of temp or so... After summer riding here in MI....you'll go up two to three sizes on the main. Last I checked, they make a ski type assembly with no mods required. They bolt up to your hubs on the front of the bike, like your rims would. I'm sure they cost a pretty penny...though. It will be no where near as effective as a sled...period. Fun...sure. But be prepared to go off trails and spend almost as much time off your quad getting it unstuck as you are riding it....

Hey...I've got a 4 mil, and everything's gotta price ya know? ha...just teasin...I can't sell it...too low of hours on it. Plus...I wouldn't be able to get back 1/2 of what I got into it...it's not a "pretty or blinged" up bike... Good luck on the sale and new purchase...it seems a 4 mil shee is a dime a dozen now a days....

At 1500 ft of elevation, you could use 21cc domes and probably run pump gas safely all day long. 20cc domes would put you at the risk of MAYBE having to run 50/50 mix of pump and race gas. They do a few things: Cool better Look better Seal better and will give you a boost in bottom end with a little more compression PM DLNOSS here on HQ. He can answer any questions you may have...

Yeah, heck with that. I've got a steel two way on/off switch I mounted behind the radiator in the cover...back in on, forward is off. I gotta rig up my tether properly, though...it's a requirement for all 300ft sand drags round here...

I would be very surprised if redline does not tell you the same thing. The cub is tried and true...and much more common than an LA sleeve kit. With just clean up on the porting, they are just bolt on power, period....

I'll stick my neck out...your milage may vary... These are ESTIMATES only....so, don't blow your bike up and tell me about it. Keep in mind, these estimates with a properly jetted bike and NO timing advances. Advancing your timing can and usually will requre a few more ocatane points. Keep in mind, pump gas ranges in the 91 to 94 octane range, and I'd say race gas averages 110 octane.... 149 PSI and below, premium pump gas 150 to 165ish, 50/50 mix race and pump 165 and above, pure race gas. Again...these are just average numbers....I think once you start getting into compression and timing advances more than just a little (say .020 or more off the head, or 20cc or smaller domes) you might as well just run race gas...and bump the timing while you're at it.... Again...my disclaimer...approxamate numbers only...so, check your plugs and listen to your engine... No one will make a chart because each bike is different...air is different, temps are different... There are simply too many variables to chart this out. Plus, there'd be liability on there part.

Yep....too good to be true. Here's his answer... Response from lightvision-signs lightvision-signs( 35) Positive feedback: 94.9% Member since: Mar-05-06 Location: NY, United States Registered on: www.ebay.com Item: 2006 Yamaha Banshee Retro SE (200022195568) This message was sent while the listing was active. lightvision-signs is the seller. My account was hacked, it's not valid listing.

Yeah, and I've got the right guy to do it too, which helps big time. I already had him powerjet my PWKs...knowing I'd be going to the "dark side" sooner or later... Problem is...I got a 6 over for my shee... I know I'm gonna need 8 to 10 once I get all this work done.... I'm 245 and I have fat boy traction working for me... :beer: