dajogejr

No prob... I'm just gonna go ahead and say it...HP from a dyno don't mean sqaut unless you're comparing mods on the same dyno in the same reasonable time frame.... I could probably find a dyno to give me 110HP...then go down the road and find one that'll give me 85.... (Guess which guy sells more stuff...)

I'm at home...partner...just enjoyed a nice Prime Rib dinner... I'll post up some pics once it quits this damn rain!! Thanks again....Jeffro....left you a VM. I need some new FAST Racing stickers for the ride...will give you a call this week:)

WOW!! Thanks everybody...I appreciate it. I treated myself for my birthday.... Tuesday night my tranny was going out on my 98 Grand Cherokee...she's been good to me. 5 years, 105Kmiles I put on her (bought it used in 01 with 42K on it)...so, went to the dealer, traded it in and picked me up a Hemi Ram, Big Horn, Silver...4X4...the works. First brand new car ever...drove it off the lot with 4 miles on it....still just bringing a smile to my face... Now I actually can haul my own bike around!!! Rog... Just got back from Bob's house...he finally got his crank in. Put it together, took it apart...and a piece of his shift drum literally cracked off. So...unless a dealer has one laying around...he wont' be at Bob's Raceway. Evan stayed home from Silver Lake...weather, etc. I'm hoping he can at least join me for the ride out there...if not, you know I'm going solo...first time in my own truck with my shee...can't wait. I might have to call you again, Willard Scott...to get the weather report before I head out Again, thanks everybody....just kinda dreary and rainy around here...so, steak dinner from my girlfriend...and that's about it!! :beer:

I'd get CPI inframes if he wants extensive porting and a drag motor...if not, stay away from them... They're a top end pipe... Wait for porting for big carbs, you'll actually hurt performance on stock porting with large carbs... If you're going to build a drag/dune bike, then an override and lockup are a good idea. If you're just going trail ride and play drag race, not needed.... I agree...shave the flywheel...you'll love it.

You're too rich, FMF or Toomey on a stock cylinder, (no porting) Put the needle back in the middle, go down one on the pilot, and put the main at 340.... Your bike will probably run, and run pretty good with that jetting and T5s...but, it'll end up loading up and fouling a plug sooner rather than later....

Raise the main jet two sizes, and you'll be fine. Leave the needle alone. Once you get above 1500 feet, it'll probably run a little rich....but, that's fine.

Maybe I'm missing something....but since you already have powerjettted Mikunis, why don't you just use those? Replace the dump tubes and rejet 'em..... I know you can't replace the dumps on Keihins...I'm 99% sure you can on Mikunis, though.... I understand your dillema...I'm in the same boat. I have the guy that's going to hook me up on meth, and he knows his shit.... My ONLY concern is Braap....Braap...Braauugghhhh....cough cough...running out at the dunes as well. I'm sure my little 421 Cub will get me quite a few runs on alky though....I'll just have to park my truck close by....

No flippin way.... You're not getting above 45HP with just bolt ons, period....you're only at 33 to 36 stock. You're not getting more than 10 ponies out of pipes, reeds and air filter... If you want to get above 45ish, you're gonna have to port it...period.

That's totally untrue.... There was a bad batch of coatings from Millenium...has nothing to do with the coolant in the cylinders. Guys on PS report popping quite a few O Rings and Head Gaskets...never to have it flake. You can do a few things. You can get one unplated and have a sleeve put in. YOu can have the cylinders re-coated in Nikasil.... YOu can get them either way...although from just about any reseller they come coated. You'd have to tell your builder/reseller you want to order one from CP without coating...

Yeah...I'd have to disagree with just about everything you've said as well..csr... 1. Put the bike in gear, and use a strap. You haven't had that parking brake cable malfunction and eat up a set of pads in about...oh, 1/2 hour yet. 2. If one slide sticks open, the motor will rev up. As long as the jetting isn't lean....how can that lean out the motor and blow it up??? IF you can't tell something is wrong by the motor revving up unexplained....you don't deserve to be on this quad. The ONLY time I ever had the stock carbs stick is when a TON of water was involved and sand too... The TORS are junk...and cause electrical nightmare after nightmare....no one could've been saved from a crash by them...that's pure crap IMO. Even when maintained, they don't work half the time, period. 3. Get a Honda Roundhouse style, even back in good ol 85, my 250 quadracer had the roundhouse style (ironically....it went to a shitty design in 87...)... I keep mine maintained like a mofo... Those tabs can bend, throwing your axle out of adjustment as well causing the bike to pull. Won't happen on a roundhouse.... csr...I gather from your writings I read you are on your first and only banshee...and it's been working out great for you...and that's fine. Get to wrenching on a few more under your belt over time...and I think you'd see things differently... I'm not bagging on you....don't be offended. I just think alot of your comments are "newbie" or Rookie tuner comments, that's all.

I agree with blueshee...standing by my point of you'd pay more for a good builder to get the same or similar amount of power out of stock cylinders than a bolt on cub. And...I think he'll agree...a cub will absolutely cool better. Plus...a cub has nikasil coating. While some hate it...it is harder than a steel sleeve...and often just needs to be honed to put a fresh piston/rings set in...instead of bore and oversize pistons.... 5 to 10 degrees isn't much better than stock??? Were you expecting 30 to 40 degrees or some other miracle??

Would a cheetah cub with no porting or cleanup at all, at stock stroke, beat the hell out of a $400-$500 port job on brand new stock cylinders? Yes. Stock cubs have drag port timing out of the box. There are few builders than can get as much out of a stock cylinder as a cub out of the box. By the time you pay for that port job...you could've had a cub. And because of the larger water jackets, you will NEVER get a stock cylinder to cool as well as a cub. Also is there that much of a power difference between the stock cheetah size and the 68 mil? Not much. stock banshee bore is 64mm. You will get a bit more torque...and a few extra ponies. One more......Can you run the stck head on the stock size cheetah? That's two more questions...and yes, you can run the stock head on any motor...just about. It'd be wise to have it rechambered for better cooling, and...cut for an O Ring to seal better. If you run a longer stroke/rod and/or a bigger piston (big bore) you'll have to get the head cut accordingly. Does a cool head really keep the motor that much cooler? Yes...and well worth it. Custom look, easier to maintain and better sealing Orings, and you can find the some size that works best for your setup....

Fine point, DMS...forgot the infamous banshee chain adjustment routine. I'll never by another again...roundhouse swingarm from here on out...

The stock design traps coolant...period. I've moved mine to the front, beat the bejezus out of it...and the level in the overflow bottle hasn't moved. And I check the water in the radiator before each day of riding...it hasn't moved.

You can Ohm the stator and Coil, reference numbers are in the cylmers manual for resistance.... CDI is hit or miss. Normally, it works or doesn't, and...I've never seen one fire one side or another....

Precisely why I said measure compression before and after... Better safe than sorry...your mileage may vary...

I thought you just used a blaster throttle cable or a 250R cable for those... Have you called cascade? I'd be 100% certain they can help you as well. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/

.025 to .030...I'd be prepared to run a 50/50 mix of race and pump gas, if not 100% race gas. If you have a stock crank that has not been welded...I'd stick with .020...and measure your compression before and after....

Trinity... :yankyank: I ran it all last year on my STOCK motor, stock water pump, stock cooling system and didn't have a LICK of problems. Better yet, it sat all winter, and after putting fresh gas and plugs in it...fired right up in March ....before I tore the motor out to build my cub. BS....period. Engine Ice works, period....

Yeah, nice 1st post. Bring that thing out to Silver Lake dunes on any holiday weekend...and I'll bet there will be some stock stroke, stock bore bikes on alky handing it to you all day, every day.... I don't know where this post came from....but for your next post, speedy, try using a period and capital letter occasionally...it makes for easier reading.

I'm assuming you mean for your 521 Cheetah in your sig? I'd go 39PWKs to feed that monster... Just curious...why are you going from meth back to gas??

Absolutely no doubt. Between that and a lockup...I'm hoping to gain .2 to .3 seconds off my 300ft time, and...no more missed shifts or "Phantom Nuetrals"... I love my pipes...but, if you shift just a hair early with the clutch and you're not on the pipe....your race is over....

There are plenty of fast bikes, drag and dune, that I've seen running the stock head. Just cause it's not pretty, doesn't mean it doesn't work... Hell...if you get 'em cut for O Rings...they're pretty damn good. I know....you can change domes in an aftermarket head...but, once you put domes in, how many people actually swap domes?? Stock Pipes are junk, choke the motor and are HEAVY... Stock Air Filter is junk, as is the lid to retain it...get a pro-flow adapter. Stock shocks, junk Stock rear tires, junk

Just for the hell of it...remove your flywheel and shake it, make sure the magnets inside are not scattered.... I had that problem...and it miffed the heck out of me and my friend...he just happened to have another one laying around, cured it right up. Although...it caused mine to die at about 6K RPM or so... Is the clean plug wet, or dry?

Since when? They just have the wrist pin hole moved up for the stroker crowd.... I just got big bore blaster pistons, what everybody used before wiseco made the 795 series..... Yeah, without off setting the crank stroke, you just made it a bit more reliable..that's it. With a longer rod but shorter wrist pin hole to crown height, your port timing should be fine as well...