dajogejr

Ebay....and I'd still use a shop other than Duncan for your banshee motor...

Check compression... Might be time to pull the head on it. There's a been a few of the cubs that had the plating start to come off....less compression on that side could definately cause a loss in power.... CD, I'm taking into consideration you've checked the obvious, changed plugs, clean carbs, fresh gas/oil.... How much compression and timing did it have before, and are you running enough octane?? Did you check your plugs a few times the first day in the dunes to make sure you didn't run it lean??

I've always like imageshack.us No sign up, no membership, no email address...etc. Just upload your pic...and choose from several options they have to post pics. By far the easiest I've used...

On your first post you said you just got the bike, you last post you said you ran it this way....and it ran good last season....I'm confused?? :shrug: Porting changes everything.... I've heard of drag porting wanting 400 or bigger jets, but...it could want smaller jets too. I'd still put 340s in, see if it gets better, and check your plugs....

A properly tuned banshee with good porting should be pulling on a piped only shee with air filters pretty good... There's something not right with your setup. Don't get me wrong, T6's are great pipes...if you leave your bike fairly stock, or use very, very conservative porting and port timings....

I'd get a new builder...he's no pro. Vitos makes their own, Wiseco makes their own. Vitos are cheap Taiwan parts.... Wiseco ProLites are the only way to go... Change rings when you notice a pound of difference... Maybe if your name was Ricky Carmichael or James Stewart, you had your own mechanic and a limitless budget...and the racing you did was that competitive....otherwise...no way Jose... That's like telling someone who drives normally to change their oil in their car every 500 miles....

A few things... You sound like you're jetted too rich. Duncan's banshee tuning skills don't impress me much...I'd find another builder. They build a killer 4 stroke, though... T6 pipes do not respond to very aggressive porting or port timings. I'd see about some T5 or Trinity pipes... I'd be surprised if Duncan's shop doesn't have a dyno... I'd ask them to put it on an air/fuel meter with the T6's on it...and see how far it is off...correct it..and make a few pulls. Then, let them put their pipe on...jet it...and make a few more pulls on the dyno...

first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME. You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them. Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out, turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in 2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both. Check the sync on both of them again.... Put it back together.... Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time. After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the idle screws....

I'm going to have to phone a friend to translate that one for me.... Did you reoil the filter(s) after you cleaned them...(I'm assuming from my rough translation you cleaned the air filter)... Did you over oil them? Did you find a lot of dirt and water in your carbs...and by clean them, did you COMPLETELY dissasemble them, remove ALL jets and use compressed air to blow the jets and passages clean? Wiping down the inside of the body ain't gonna cut it. Next, check your electrical connections...tail light to headlight...to see if anything got water logged, shorted out, burnt, etc... That ought to keep you busy for a while...

Less oil....but thats besides the point. How is your compression for one? You just mentioned electrical...are you SURE it's 100% fixed? What kind of tires...gearing, etc... My 421 cub doesn't do wheelies either... when I put my 20 inch holeshots on (it fries them on dirt, grass...whatever...)....

It would greatly help if you listed ALL of your mods, as well as what elevation you ride at, and average riding temperatures....

It probably has a different ignition curve, you won't feel a bit of difference seat of pants I'd bet. You'd be better off just getting a timing plate and advancing it that way....

Yep...sure can, and most likely is. Sorry...I overlooked that. Unplug the black box under your tank, left side. Unplug both wire sets going into the tops of the carbs... See if that helps...

It basically means your crankshaft has a longer stroke... Do a search, you'll find all the info you'll ever need...

Nope... 87 to some 90s are J Arm Frames.

Tony... Once you get the 21cc head, check compression. At 1500ft...you should be able to get away with premium pump gas with 21c domes and +4 of timing. SHOULD..... You'll probably end up with about 140 PSI...which should run pump gas all day long with +4 timing... but...LISTEN to your motor, PERIOD... Jay... I'll be very curious to see how yours turns out....

Yep, sure will. The only time you have to get the head machined is when you start with a stroked crank....

More than 2.0 to 2.5 turns out on it...you should go smaller on the pilot. Less than .5 turns out, go richer (larger) on the pilot...

I've jetted quite a few T5'd piped bikes. Mine included... The Toomey jet kit comes with 270 and 280 mains... I believe the instructions say use the 270 above 2500 feet, the 280 below. With just his pipes and 1 into 2 filter, I needed a 330 main. My buddy, 98 shee...same thing. Put a 340 in his... If you run with an airbox, the 270 or 280 should be ok (sea level, or less than 1000 feet, 65 to 90 deg. riding temps.). Once you remove the airbox, those mains are too lean, period. And this kit was out before the T6 pipes, so...I'm sure jetting for those isn't too far off from the T5....

You can order jets online at a few places. I know magic racing sells them. You can also go to sudco.com or carbparts.com and get them as well...

Your riding conditions dictate wether or not you need to keep your airbox... If you're going to trail ride in any kind of water, etc... Keep the airbox with a pro lid or screen type on it. If you'll be sitting dry ...go for the pods. I'd say you'll probably increase air flow by roughly 10 to 15% without the box....

Simply put, you shave material off the gastket surface of your head to raise compression. From .015 to .030 is common... It will give you some more snap and bottom end...albeit at the sacrifice (slight) of top end...which, the shee has plenty to lose... Just make sure you check compression if you do, you don't want to run lower octane gas if your compression gets up there....

1st off...you did rejet it correctly once you put the PCs on, right? Next...Mill the head, advance the timing with a plate and shave the flywheel. All those together will run you less than 200 bucks...it will make a BIG difference...

You're running a +7 swinger on a stock shock....it's bad. Period. You need to either have your stocker setup with a different valving and stiffer spring, or get a new aftermarket shock valved and sprung for your swingarm length, riding style and rider weight... On my +6, my stocker was terrible...period. The difference between my stocker and my Marvin Shaw is HUGE...stiffer than shit. Probably a little stiff for duning, but...for dragging...it's exactly what you want...

Jetting sounds good... I agree, fresh gas. If that doesn't fix it...check the reeds for chipped or broken petals... IF they're fine, start checking all your electrical, regardless if TORS is removed or not... Could have a burnt wire, bare...grounding out, etc. OHM test the Coil and Stator, too...