dajogejr

PM Machwon on this board, it's R&B racing in MI. He sells a kit on ebay which is very affordable. Or...you can call Bob Direct @ (517) 388-3662.

Glad to see you guys making some headway turning this boat around...good for you!! I'm not in the market for pipes...but.... I live within half hour of one of the old guys, Minkia... I was able to demo a FUGLY set of pipes. Fully functional...but, bad welds, black painted...and fugly silencers. If you want to save face and promote your product, you may want to think about offering up a loaner set...as they did. If you get a cosmetically bad set, dings, welds, whatever...instead of trashing it, offer it up as a test loaner. You decide the deposit, shipping terms, etc. Just an idea to help get your ball rolling on these pipes again.... NO one else lets you try before you buy...might give you guys an edge in trying to rebuild the brand... Dave...

Home Depot. Corning home insulation....remove the paper. It works...

It's about 20 bucks for rings. it's about 75 bucks for a new piston... Is it worth saving 50 bucks to wonder? I'd re-hone each cylinder, buy the pistons, re-mic and check for clearances, and replace both Pistons.... (Aside from cleaning out the cases as everyone mentioned as well)..

normally that means the orring or detent is worn or dirty... You can unscrew the choke from the carb and give it a good cleaning, if it still doesn't stay out, it's worn. To be honest..you can probably get a new one or rebuild that one...but, not sure how much you need to use the choke... I doubt seriously it has anything to do with the slides sticking....

From .060 over, wiseco makes a .080 over kit (they skip .070) They also make a .090 and .100...but I think most will agree, once you go that thin on the walls, you're sitting on a gernade.... Once you use up the live of the cylinder (.080 to .100 over) you'll have to get the cast iron machined (bored) to accept a sleeve in it's place

Sanchez...Dragon, Cleveland Steamer, Chili Dog...whatever... Just make sure you tape it, it's worth a fortune... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Another handy little piece of software is Easy Thumbnail creator. It easily shrinks down your 500KB to 1.5MB pics (yeah, those big megapixel cameras...) to 70 to 150KB, much easier to share, email, upload, etc... Download it free: http://www.fookes.com/ezthumbs/

Yep...funny how money has that cure for everything... One drink, yeah...right. All you see is pictures and videos of her at all these clubs, parties...etc. Partying in like 10 different cities for her 21st birthday...one drink, c'mon. I bet that little partying slut can drink half us under the table... (Don't get me wrong, I'd still stick it in her tailpipe...) If she wasn't the perfect candidate for a dirty sanchez...I really don't know who is.... (Ooh...that's hot...)

One more thing. Do NOT overtighten the carb caps on the stock carbs (If they are stockers)... If you overtighten them, they will stick... Just hand tighten them, and use the stays....

I agree...however, I'd look for a used set of T5 pipes and save a few hundo on them. Between here, Planetsand.com and ebay...you should be able to find a nice used set for 300 or so... Going radical on the compression is not a great idea for a trail bike, if he's a long way from camp...or a long way from a station with race gas at the pump. Something else to consider...

I think this winter time it will be strip down and remove the brackets on mine too...Red... Post up the pics as you make progress, I could use some ideas... My goal is to shave as much weight as possible off of it....

Not to mention you said you had to dry out your flywheel and Stator...well, the good old crank seal is right behind that as well...could've sucked or blew water past that, too... If you're gonna power wash it, you need to be careful around the engine and electrical...period. Might want to remove your coil and make sure it's good and dry, too...

Chase... You want to make sure that compression tester has a thread in adapter...no good if not. Also...check to see if the threads are as long as the spark plug threads. If not, add a few PSI for the whole combustion chamber will be a little smaller with the plugs in it. Take a cold reading, warm it up good...and take another reading ...as Travis said with the throttle wide open. If that tester turns out cheesy, I've seen this one in person and it's very nice, will do quads and just about anything else: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

Yep...if I know it's a pic of something I'm going to use again, I'll just book mark it. I got 10 bookmarks of my quad, 5 of my truck... But...gotta update the quad pics now that I got some Marvin Shaws on her... :beer:

Start by the most obvious spots. Look for cracking around the rubber boots on the intake side....go from there. PM machwon for a very reasonably priced leak down kit tester if you can't make heads or tails. He sells a kit with everything you need that will pressurize the cylinders to check for an air leak...

Word!! We all get upset and frustrated...perfectly understandable. Even more commendable you got past it, apologized....and got back to business! Believe me...it sucks making some minor changes then having to wait a while or drive a while to see how well they worked...not like you can drive it up and down the street (well, most of us can't anywho...)

Chase...it is the case split mark for the timing reference. I leave mine at 8 and plus my dyna advances it another 4-5 degrees as well.... I'm running about 180PSI...110 octane mixed with Super M @ 40:1...

You're rich.... That's fatter jetting than I have, and mine's a 4mil cub. Go down a few sizes on the pilots. Try a 45 and 48. I'd get a 155 and 152 main, as well....

That part was directed at Lifted...who said he already had the TORS removal on...which means he should've had the idles screws installed...tooo. It's all good!!!

First off...you need to tone that attitude down.... It's your builders fault, not ours... If you already know it's rich, why don't you take each of your carbs off. Keep them and all their associated parts separate so you don't mix them up. Take each one apart down to nothing. That will be the best learning experience for you right there. You said you have mechanical skill, so this should not be a problem. Second, read the jetting FAQ on the top of this forum....it tells you what jet controls what circuit...or in other words, which jet controls what throttle position. Keep in mind, your pilot jet and air screw have very little to do with the overall performance of the bike....from idle to 1/8 throttle. So...focus in on where it is rich. Do research on a plug chop. If the mains are too rich, get the next 2 to 3 sizes leaner. If it's boggy in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle area, you're probably rich on the needle, so bump the needle up (towards the blunt end) to lean it out....or vice versa to richen it up. None of us got good at jetting by ONLY asking questions...we learned how to read plugs, understand how the carb works, and go from there. If you're asking us to tell you the exact jet you need, we can't. Each bike is different, riding locale, temp, elevation. We can get you close, but...it sounds like you are already there... You need to figure out how to fine tune from there based on how/where you ride.....

Main jets do not effect the starting, unless they fall out....(Don't ask me how I know that one..) You've either got a stuck throttle cable, a stuck slide, the sildes are in backwards, float bowls switched, choke tube not in place or a real nice air leak....

You've got your bases covered....you pretty much have the same setup as mine. 180 PSI, 110 leaded race gas, but I'm running a bit more timing...between my plate and my dyna. About 8 on the plate...and probably another 4 to 5 on the dyna.... I'm running mine a bit rich too...I just haven't gotten around to buying smaller jets on the pilots and mains. I just threw some 160's in there...cause I knew it'd be safe to start there.... It's been running damned good...but, I know I'm fat too...(and so is my jetting... ) CD...if memory serves me correctly, aren't you at a higher altitude....like around 3000 feet or so?? If so...you're gonna wanna go leaner yet....but I think you're on the right track...

Fine point, TRex...honestly, I did almost write that...but I am very long winded. I just took a fine scothbride pad on my air grinder, and sanded it flat....then kept going for just a bit... There's plenty of material to work with... But...in my post, I did say remove the airbox to see the slide raising... Because from the factory those boss's are angled, you're absolutely right..they have to at least be ground down flat for the lock washer to sit tight... Lifted... When you remove the TORS ..there should be two holed drilled and tapped on the outside of each carb. Since the TORS used to adjust the idle, these new holes are tapped and a long, brass bullet nosed screw threads into this...the bullet nose pushes against the ramp on the bottom of the stock slide. As you screw it in...it pushes the slide up...allowing for idle.... I'll try to find a pic...you have to have these because you need a little bit of slack in the throttle cable. Not much, but enough to where you're not opening the throttle when turning the bars from one side to the other....

30 will be too rich...espeically since he has ONLY the snorkel removed.... I'd still say it's too rich...but I agree...fatties do like a little bigger pilot. Carb bowl advice is great. There is a rubber tube that goes between the carbs as well, the choke tube...make sure it is in place and tight...