dajogejr

Ditch the boost bottle if you still have your stock crossover tube. They're junk. What do you plugs look like? I'd bet you're a little rich with 280 mains and the lid still on... Yep, screws on TORS still work to adjust idle...all you did was remove the electrical/ignition kill aspect of it, the mechanical still works...

Well...Toomeys are a better pipe, IMO....and, your 97 may have been jetted just a tad cleaner (leaner)...if you know what I mean. I wouldn't pull hair out over it...unless you see 6th all the time. If you do...time to port that motor and let it breathe a bit. No racing I ever do ever really gets past 4th.... On the 300ft drags...depending on how clean I shift, I sometimes click 5th as I go through the traps....

Since you didn't give us your riding temps or elevation, I'll guess based on sea level, 65 to 85 temps. 150 main and 48 pilots. Not sure on the needles...I use CEL for my cub...but, different than yours. That should get you close...

Ride it...you're good to go!!!

Word... I tried 15/41 on mine and launching in first gear...hated it. Went back to 14 and am much happier launching in 2nd...

Do a search on Planet Sand.com. Cubshee has one...just saw his motor and turbo on his bench yesterday... Now, if he every puts it back together, that's another story!! Do a search on turbo banshee video...it's on there somewheres....

Oh, you can get away with it...and I understand the $$ Thing. It just makes working on things much easier, that's all. Do the compression check. If it turns out ok...start tracing all your wiring down...looking for burnt or frayed wires. Also...make sure your air filter is clean and sealed properly...you didn't say if you had an air box, with or with out lid, pods, etc....

Bad gas or an air leak would be my guess... 130 or less and only +4 on the timing, you could run premium pump gas and it shouldn't detonate... Check all around the boots, etc... I'd bet your sucking air somehow... Just for giggles...what are you using at your timing reference?

List all mods, and you really need to get that kit and remove those babies...including the idle screw kits too...

Porting, Porting, Porting.... Sooner or later, you're gonna wanna bump the compression and/or timing...but on pump gas with a good port jobs, 55 to 60 HP is very, very dooable... What exactly do you plan on doing with the bike? Trails, drags, etc??

6th gear on a stock motor with paddles in deep sand is gonna be tough... Sand suck power, a stock motor doesn't have a ton. I'd bet if you took that same setup on hard packed dirt it'll pull 6th much better. Try going down one tooth in the front or up a few in the rear...it MIGHT pull 6th... 6th gear is very tall on a shee...you gotta have a few extra ponies (or lower gearing) to pull that in sand...

I'd agree with fast500...40ish If you have the time and money....programming that dyna on a dyno will net you a few ponies...but, could also mean you'll need race gas...

Depends on your compression and timing. At or near sea level, 21cc domes and +4 is safe for premium pump gas.... After that, you'd be borderline for the need of a 50/50 mix of race/pump.

Yep...exactly what I plan on doing late this year or beginning of next... Just got back from the drag strip...and I"m already thinking lockup, override, alky...12 over, 12 paddle...it just never stops! You just can't beat a 450 for the trails, out of the box. Throw a pipe, air filter and cam in 'em...and they're such a blast to ride...no doubt.

That's great....I understand the carbs are cleaned, fresh gas, etc. How about that compression check???? You'd be wise to do that now...rather than later. If it's low, you can probably just put a fresh top end on and be done with it. Wait for it to blow up from being worn out...it's a whole new checkbook... I'd bet it's low compression...period.

Glad to hear you're ok Dale... That's one reason I hate to take the lead...and around blinding turns like that, as fun as it is to blast through 'em....it's best to be cautious and back off. Where were you guys riding at?

You know those bolts only take 7.5 ft lbs of torque, right? I've broken one off, too. Luckily...there's enough gear oil in there it just backed right out. I use hi temp RTV on the ORings for the head. I had to remove the back neck and seal that oring and put a little on each of those bolts as well. The RTV is sticker than grease, and it helps seal as well. Win Win... Good luck...

How about a compression test. Lower compression will make it hard to start cold...but it could still run good once warmed up... You should never need the choke to start it once it's warmed up... Your jettin sounds about right on the main, and stock needle clip (middle on stock needles) and stock pilots (25s) should be fine as well... Also...fresh gas? Fresh plugs? Clean air filter? Cleaned out carbs?.... Just a few things to think about....

If by this you mean I don't sugar coat everything, talk politically correct...and I'm just brutally honest, then I'll take that as a compliment... Just because I can't ride it wide open all the time doesn't mean I can't ride it wide open. You need to ride a banshee before you know what that statement means. I can sum it up best by quoting someone else. "You'll have all kinds of the wrong kind of power for what you want" And just because I haven't been on a 4 wheeler in 25 years doesn't mean I can't ride. A three wheeler is more technical and that's what I grew up on, and that's what I was riding as of last year. Hate to be the news breaker...but 25 years ago there were no 4 wheelers...it was only 3 wheelers... quads started mid eighties, not early eighties. And if an old three wheeler was the pinnacle of technology you've ridden, you're in for a surprise. I've competetively raced BMX, a dirtbike, cars and a street bike. I may want to race this too. My last bike made 181 at the rear and it was slow. My friends old turbo Hyabusa pushing 260 to the rear was nice, but not overwhelming. None of this translates into off road riding skill you'll need on a quad.... Sure, shifting gears is the same...and that can very easily convert over and should. I've done all of the above as well, except race BMX ...it's totally different on a quad... I already know I don't need a 535 for my application, but for the same money I would be buying less. Afer reading the Trinity forums, everything seems to be fast, so I'll ask them directly what they recomend. I could probably live with a 4mm PV, but it seems to cost around 3-4K. To help dajogejr out, would you pay 45K for a corvette (C6- not a ZO6) or 45K for a dodge viper if they were both new? If you're going to rely on Trinity...I'm sorry. Their name is not even close to the best in the business....and I don't trust what they build or say... I think they may have been good in the day, they've gotten too big for their britches IMO...there are plenty others that will offer you a WAY better price and 10X the customer service Trinity can only dream of. OH...and to answer the corvette question...I'm a pickup truck or Hummer H1 kinda guy...so, neither.... :beer: Nomad...I'm not trying to get down on you. Your specific riding conditions just don't warrant a motor of that type, whether it's got more than enough power or not.... Would you take an elephant gun squirrel hunting? A Corvette to ride up and down your driveway and to the grocery store? When you say you might race it...what do you mean by that? Trail racing, GNCC, drag racing, duning, hill shooting? With stockish suspension, you'll get whomped on by a near box stock 450 4 stroke on any type of GNCC or motocross track, period. However...with that motor, you'd be a man to beat at drag racing, duning or hill shooting (granted you lenghten the swinger by say...oh, 8 to 12 inches)... Hey...it's your money, build what you want obviously.... But don't just dismiss truly practical advice when you came here to ask for it.... :shrug: Also...nomad...of course they're going to tell you they have 535's racing... They probably have 535 snowblowers and lawnmowers too...they're salesmen, period. When you say 90HP cheetah, are you talking cheetah cub or cheetah. Cheetah are Powervalvle motors...cubs are not. If you're buying a cub motor and think you're gonna trail ride with that....all I can say is good luck. I have one, it's near 100HP...and it's no trail machine... Dune and drag race only....period.... Either way, good luck... Typing never shows a attitude, sarcasm, wit or humor very well. Don't want you to take my posts personally or the wrong way...but I'm not gonna blow smoke up your ass to tell you something is when it isn't....

You're going to run over a 100HP motor in trails that can get 50 inches wide?.... Don't waste your money or time. With all that power on a stock length bike, you're going to spend more time on the brakes or with the front end up in the air..... That's a dune/wide open trail/drag race motor...any way you slice it. Keep your motor, port it, get some mid power pipes and have fun.... You specifically said you haven't been in the offroad game in 25 years. Well...you wouldn't start boxing tomorrow and then challenge Mike Tyson to a fight the week after, right? Same thing applies here... 535 Cheetah PV motor is too much for those trails on a stock swinger, etc....

Bump your pilots up to 27.5, (one size) and make sure you get the pilots for a bashee. I think they're a little longer than normal Mikuni Pilots. Turn the air screws out 1 turn and start there. Then...plug chop it to dial and check your mains....

Put 280 mains in....with that airbox and power lid. You'll probably be rich once you start getting above 1500 feet or so...though. Usually....a main jet is good for 1000 feet, give or take. 2500 feet is quite a gap....but, there's really not much you could do. Unless you wanted to put your lid on of low elevation riding, then remove it for higher elevation riding.... If it feels boggy 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, you'll need to lean out the needle one clip. With VForce, sometimes you do, sometimes you don't.... If it does feel boggy, just move the needle clip up one towards the blunt end...that should clean it up.

When I demo'd the Rockets, I had no air box, twin K&N Pod filters, shaved flywheel, +4 timing advance and my mains were 370s. Mains won't help you start...what size pilots do you have in there? I'd say you need 27.5s for sure. You read my other thread on how to dial in your pilots by idle RPMs... If you get the best idle with less than .5 turns out, you need smaller pilots (stock 25 is the smallest), more than 2.0 turns out...bump up a size... 280s sound lean based on my experience, similar mods, similar temps and elevation. However, plug chop doesn't lie... You didn't mention anything about porting, so...I'm going to assum it's a stock ported motor... Try this to properly do a plug chop...and if you end up with 280 mains and plugs looking good...well, that's all there is to it. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

He's got the airbox still on...340s are high unless he has full blown drag porting.... People often forget this simple fact about porting. It bascially changes the way your engine pulls air and fuel into it. Often, a ported motor can pull more fuel from a smaller jet than a non-ported motor can. So...there is no rule of thumb that a "ported" motor needs a bigger jet....it's not true. However...TX above did hit the key factor. It depends on port timings. If this guy is a reputable builder, he said the plug chop looks fine...and it runs good to you...ride the bike. "round here....same temps and elevation, with an airbox and no lid, average main jet on a stock port cylinder is 270 to 290... If you're not sure, we can't tell you for sure. You need to learn how to do the plug chop yourself and be sure... While I'll agree they sound a little small, if you showed me plugs that were colored properly by a plug chop, that'd be enough for me.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

I disagree.... 34's are too big for a STOCK PORT OEM cylinder. He claims these are ported to death...so, that tells me they breathe good. You can put 39's on a drag port OEM cylinder...and they'll run all day. However.... With a larger comes more on top, less bottom end. That's the trade off...and it's on a motor not known for bottom end as is... Forget about what the insulator tips look like....period. You need to do a proper plug chop to dial in your main... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html