dajogejr

Two stroke pistons don't dictate compression...the head or domes in the head do... With your mods, and depending on your port job...you're probably in the 60 range, give or take. .. Porting is the wild card. Done right, it provides HUGE gains...done wrong...and a blaster is walking by you... :beer:

Rhino... A boost bottle is the running joke of any long time banshee owner...they don't do a thing...other than take up room and eventually ruin your intake boots and crack them. You'd be better off spending 40 bucks with shipping, and getting an adjustable timing plate... Just do a search, you'll come up with all the info you need to know...

Could be... Unplug it all. Probably a good idea to completely remove the carbs and clean out ALL the passages as well.

Do yourself a favor and call Jeff @ FAST racing. I'd bet he can beat their prices... Remember, you're going to need big bore domes for that cool head too...with 68mm pistons. You'll be happy...trust me. They rip...

Welcome to HQ... Do you have a K&N in the air box, with lid, without lid, pods???? They make the difference....

Maybe on a dyno...if at all. Nothing by seat of the pants...

I'd get an air hammer with a pointed end...that'll get it out...

Which is usually a waste of money, I might add... I'd rather buy the jets I need...rather than get what they "guesstimate" I need. And...as said. What are all your mods, riding temps and riding altitude...

If it were me, I'd sell your stock cylinders on Ebay... Drop in a 4 mil crank and get a 68mm cub cylinder... A 4 mil cub is probably the best bang for the money, just cleaned up porting (to remove cylinder flashings and casting flaws)... Don't get me wrong...Jim's 12 port rips...but it's easier to spend a few hundred more and bolt on a cub. It's already got drag timings and pickup some bigger carbs and Shearer or CPI pipes to compliment the whole build. I'd say Shearers have more top end, but a narrower power spread...so, since you mentioned trail, I'd go CPI. However....you're going to need at least a 6 inch swinger or so to tame that beast, so...there goes trail riding... I just went through this ...so, I can tell you first hand experience.

You can get a Dyna CDI for under 300 brand new.... However, you can get a brand new stock CDI from Ricky Stator for 125. That's what I'd get....

At 3400 ft...you should be able to run premium pump gas and +4 timing....with a .020 to .030 head. As said, do a compression check to be sure... We could help with jetting if you tell us your list of mods and carb type... At least we know your altitude and temps...that's usually the next question:)

You can get 100HP out of cubs without alky...all day. a 4 mil anyways... You can get 100HP out of a stock cylinder with the right porting and exhaust and carbs, but you're going to melt down sooner...rather than later, and yes...you'll probably need alky for that... Actually...there's not much of a limit...other than your wallet... :beer:

Don't need spacers if your running stock carbs... Larger aftermarket carbs need the spacers to clear the clutch arm... Hope that helps...

Actually...that is not accurate, allow me to explain. Running higher compression or advanced timing causes the engine to run hotter. When it runs hotter, it can actually start pre-ignition (pinging) because the spark plug is not actually igniting the mixture, the heat in the combustion chamber is.... Race fuel with a higher octane burns slower, so in other words...it doesn't ignite as easily as say normal pump fuel. When you raise compression and timing to a certain amount...you have to have this...or you're going to lunch your motor... However, when your engine doesn't have the need...the fuel is burning slower than it needs to. Slower burning fuel can hurt performance... Now..are we talking a ton of HP...? Nope...you probably won't even feel it by the seat of your pants, and might barely be noticeable on a dyno. However....the bottom line is why spend 4 to 5 bucks a gallon on 110 when you can use good ol premium out of the pump and it will perform just as it should...

Yep...you should be fine....

Not quite sure how an R is geared... You answered your own question...though. Holeshots are great hard pack dirt tires...they're going to suck for pavement, period. Get a street tire if you want to ride pavement. It's a trade off...lower gearing is better out of the hole, better response, quicker on the pipe, at the sacrifice of top end and shifting alot....

If you have an air leak, that would explain a high idle, rough starts and breaking up in the upper RPMs. I know money is always an issue...trust me on that. But...it's easier to buy the right tools and diagnose your motor correctly...than it is to blow it up and have to pay for it (and still have to diagnose it...afterwards)... After the compression check, do a leak down check.... PM machwon on this board...he has a very reasonably priced leak down tester that can help you... You might be better off taking it to a shop and paying them for an hour of labor or so to compression test and leak down test it...though... Yeah, you need to have a tad bit of slack in the throttle...it gets taken up partially when turning...or the cable moving...

When you get it out...do yourself a favor, on this bolt or the next one. Drill and tap both ends. Plug one with a flush allen bolt, the other with a zerk fitting. Than...put the bolt in a press and drill 3 or 4 small holes in it... Now you can grease the swinger just like the front and rear suspension... Problem solved...

That can easily be checked by holding the throttle open a little...just to idle it. The jetting can't be that far off it if starts and runs GREAT once it is warmed up. If your friend shows up with a cheapy type compression tester, you need to either buy a good one, or take it to a dealer and let them test it.... Wait....you have the choke on in WOT??? Cold or warm? And it runs fine? Stop riding the bike....and check compression as soon as you can. You should also check while you're waiting the pickup gap on the flywheel....just for giggles. You've already ruled out fresh gas and plugs... Your jetting is fine...or good enough for it to run AND start cold....

Happy birthday....have a few coldies for me...

Hmm... If it's the ricky stator brand off Ebay, you should be dead on! Was the flywheel key perfectly straight when you put it back on? (Just want to make sure you don't have a degree key AND the timing plate)... You do have the correct mark for timing...I would set it back to 0 and see if it gets better...even though the gas you're running should more than handle it ...

You will gain acceleration....if your bike/tires hook up. But, you're shortening the gears...so you'll be shifting sooner and more often. If you're just spinning coming out of the hole as is....gearing down will only hurt you...

Ok... Right now, you're wasting money and hurting performance by running 110 with no changes in compression or timing.... Get the motor a dune port, and pickup a NOSS head with 19cc domes. Then, get a timing plate and set it at +6, and remove the crank and have it trued/welded. For about 1800....you should be able to accomplish that...if you can do your own tear down and assembly.

A banshee has NO low end...because there are no powervalves. My 94 and 97 CR250s had power valve, and it was a whole new animal. That's why some people take the RZ route. The streetbike RZ is lineal ancestor of the banshee motor, but...It has power valves....which give it bottom end... Most of the parts are interchangable...it's just kind of a pain to get the wiring for the powervalves sorted, but...it's been done a ton! There are several ways to check for air leaks...but, by far the best and most complete way is to get a leak down tester. You basically pull the carbs and pipes off, block it all off with plugs...and pressurize the cylinders and motor. It should hold 6 lbs for 5 to 10 minutes or so.... PM machwon on here...he sells a leakdown kit for very reasonable... boost bottle often cause the rubber boots to crack on the intake due to the extra weight of them. Start your bike up, get some carb cleaner...or something light like that... Spray around the carb boots and intake...spray the bejezus out of it. See if the motor dies down or wants to stall....if so, you have an air leak. Those are the easy places to try...next it's head/base gaskets and ....crank seals...

Honestly...I"m just not creative enough to think of something good...so... It's the first two letters of my frist, middle and last name, and...I"m a Jr. Here's the silly part. Hillarious and I have the same real name, his middle name is just different, and we both use Jeff @ FAST racing, and he pointed it out...otherwise we probably both would've never known. Talk about off the wall, huh?